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Engine fuel line engineering problem


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5 minutes ago, Polishicebreaker said:

Which brings me to the question..,, 

 

can I use 8mm pipe, not sure that my chandlers will have 5/16?

 

 

Yes, 8mm is 320 thou, 5/16" is 312 thou, you would have to be lucky to see the difference.

 

If the spindle is coming to a stop when you turn it clockwise it may not be broken at all, force it a bit,

 

TD'

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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21 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Yes, 8mm is 320 thou, 5/16" is 312 thou, you would have to be lucky to see the difference.

 

If the spindle is coming to a stop when you turn it clockwise it may not be broken at all, force it a bit,

 

TD'

Ok I’ll give it a shot tomorrow, thanks very much for your help!

 

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58 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

If its jammed open the spindle must be broken above the thread that screws the gate wedge into the body, unusual. Generally they jam closed and the spindle snaps when you try to open them.

How many turns have you given it?

 

Or the threads give in

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3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Or the threads give in

Always a possibility but he is no worse off if it does break.  J have had a few on water supplies that jam open and get firred up too, I screw them down tight as I dare and belt the top of the spindle, tighten again and repeat till they give in.

In diesel it should only be jammed if the spindle is not spinning free.

TD'

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If the tank can be drained then it should be easy to remove the top of the valve and see it its bust without removing the body from the tank. You could even loosen the stuffing gland on the shaft and see if the wheel will turn.

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2 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

If the tank can be drained then it should be easy to remove the top of the valve and see it its bust without removing the body from the tank. You could even loosen the stuffing gland on the shaft and see if the wheel will turn.

He has said that the wheel turns so far. I was trying to find him a solution without tank draining.

TD'

  • Greenie 1
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27 minutes ago, buccaneer66 said:

A good explanation with diagrams of different types of gate valve https://hardhatengineer.com/gate-valve-types-parts/

Thanks Buccaneer, but the cheap gate valve in this post is like none of those high quality valves, it may be a nasty Italian cut price jobby.

I have stopped using gate valves in favour of quarter turn ball valves, the quality is better.

 

Brass Gate Valve | Steel Pipes & FittingsThis is more like what we are talking about.

Edited by Tracy D'arth
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3 minutes ago, buccaneer66 said:

It seems odd there is no fitting on the tank.

At a guess, the valve is M & F BSP threaded, the male end is screwed into a boss or coupling welded in the tank. There seems to be some gunge on the tank, but there is no obvious spigot on the tank..

The female end has the reducing adaptor to 5/16" compression.

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A piece of almost anything  stuck under the gate? Scale rust, sliver  of wood etc etc. Possible push it back into the tank with air pressure  or poke something in from the open end of the pipe whilst collecting the issuing diesel into a tundish? Need to open the valve fully first though. I've seen this before with steam valves not closing.

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Cannot work out how that brass fitting is fixed to the tank unless all that white stuff is concrete! Think I'd be tempted to run the diesel right down in the tank then try to unscrew the valve from the tank, must be threaded on to something, somehow.. Looks like a 10 minute job that ends up snapping something off then taking days and oily days to fix.

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57 minutes ago, Bee said:

Cannot work out how that brass fitting is fixed to the tank unless all that white stuff is concrete! Think I'd be tempted to run the diesel right down in the tank then try to unscrew the valve from the tank, must be threaded on to something, somehow.. Looks like a 10 minute job that ends up snapping something off then taking days and oily days to fix.

Well judging by the rest of the boat, the guy who built it did everything as quickly as poss:) 

 

Thanks for all the advice!  I think putting a new 5/15 valve and short piece of pipe on is the best solution for me.

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My inclination would be to put a stop end on a stub on the valve and fit a dip tube for the fuel line from as near the top of the tank as feasible. Easy to do using an Essex flange type fitting (in this context there might be a different name - someone help!). I did that to install a webasto in our boat.

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