Fixing T&G cladding

[Sir Percy]

The pine T&G that I've stripped off was fixed with brass screws to the battening. I'm going to replace with T&G again , but it should now have a 9 or 12mm ply backing. This time around, I'd rather not use screws, or secret nailing. I've already discounted screwing and plugging.

Would dowels work, or is there a risk of splitting the T&G?

Not yet decided on the wood as yet. It'll be vertical, if that makes any difference.

...or glue?

Edited June 9, 2020 by Sir Percy

[WotEver]

Any objection to gluing it to the ply?

[ditchcrawler]

2 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Any objection to gluing it to the ply?

That is what I did in my back cabin and it still looks good after 18 years. not sure how the atmosphere changes in there compare with sat the lounge.

[Sir Percy]

7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Any objection to gluing it to the ply?

Not really, other than being able to take out a section if it became damaged.

[WotEver]

1 minute ago, Sir Percy said:

Not really, other than being able to take out a section if it became damaged.

The alternative would be clips.  They hook into the groove and you nail them to the backing and then they're covered by the tongue of the next board.

 

This kind of thing: https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Bright-Zinc-Cladding-Clips---Pack-of-50/p/510800

[Sir Percy]

1 minute ago, WotEver said:

The alternative would be clips.  They hook into the groove and you nail them to the backing and then they're covered by the tongue of the next board.

Ah, sounds interesting. I'll into them, thanks.

[Tracy D'arth]

Make sure it is really dry & seasoned  before gluing with 5 minute polyurethane wood glue else it will shrink and show gaps. Wedge it with sticks across the boat while it sets.

[Sir Percy]

33 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Make sure it is really dry & seasoned  before gluing with 5 minute polyurethane wood glue else it will shrink and show gaps. Wedge it with sticks across the boat while it sets.

Thanks, if I go with glue, I think what I could do is fix to sections of ply, clamping/weighting, before mounting the whole assembly to the battening.

[WotEver]

48 minutes ago, Sir Percy said:

Thanks, if I go with glue, I think what I could do is fix to sections of ply, clamping/weighting, before mounting the whole assembly to the battening.

There's a YouTube vlog of a guy (Jaques?) who fitted out his own narrowboat and that's exactly what he did.

[Sir Percy]

4 minutes ago, WotEver said:

There's a YouTube vlog of a guy (Jaques?) who fitted out his own narrowboat and that's exactly what he did.

Jacques Gluestoo?

[WotEver]

26 minutes ago, Sir Percy said:

Jacques Gluestoo?

Colin Jaques: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCnT-VVQqid7A_ZaBkZb6_XA

[David Mack]

10 hours ago, WotEver said:

There's a YouTube vlog of a guy (Jaques?) who fitted out his own narrowboat and that's exactly what he did.

 

10 hours ago, Sir Percy said:

Jacques Gluestoo?

 

And is his boat  underwater?

[Sir Percy]

1 hour ago, David Mack said:

 

 

And is his boat  underwater?

I did think the video quality was a bit murky.

[starman]

14 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Make sure it is really dry & seasoned  before gluing with 5 minute polyurethane wood glue else it will shrink and show gaps. Wedge it with sticks across the boat while it sets.

Most modern t&g will have cupped into a semi-circle by the time it's dry and seasoned. It's also full of knots which definitely need treating with knotting and primer at least on the undersides. Wood quality is rubbish unless you have the cash to get hardwood machined up.
If I was painting the outer surface I'd use a second fix nailgun, fire pins under the surface the and fill the tiny holes. (I just bought one and it's so fast). I must admit I've not tried gluing when fitting stuff to our boat; secret nails seem to inevitably split the tongues, I've used visible fixings like brass screws but I reckon the smartest finish personally is plugging.
 

[Sir Percy]

21 minutes ago, starman said:

Most modern t&g will have cupped into a semi-circle by the time it's dry and seasoned. It's also full of knots which definitely need treating with knotting and primer at least on the undersides. Wood quality is rubbish unless you have the cash to get hardwood machined up.
If I was painting the outer surface I'd use a second fix nailgun, fire pins under the surface the and fill the tiny holes. (I just bought one and it's so fast). I must admit I've not tried gluing when fitting stuff to our boat; secret nails seem to inevitably split the tongues, I've used visible fixings like brass screws but I reckon the smartest finish personally is plugging.
 

I've considered plugging, but wouldn't do it on the thin type of t&g that I've removed. Again, it comes down to what you're prepared to pay for. I've only a small cabin to line out, so had a look at stretching to hardwood t&g, but the nice stuff had an eyewatering minimum order.

[WotEver]

4 hours ago, Sir Percy said:

I've only a small cabin to line out, so had a look at stretching to hardwood t&g, but the nice stuff had an eyewatering minimum order.

Try talking to a quality timber yard and ask if they could machine some up for you.

[David Mack]

6 hours ago, starman said:

Most modern t&g will have cupped into a semi-circle by the time it's dry and seasoned

 

T&G matchboarding usually has 2-3 grooves down the back of the board to make it easier to hold it (nearly) flat.

At home I glued matchboarding to the plaster walls in our downstairs loo using a no-more-nails type adhesive and it has remained flat and stuck to the wall for 10+ years.

[starman]

Dare I utter ‘MDF’. You can get the blue water resistant stuff In sheets with tongue and very groove machining. I’ve put wall cladding in two bathrooms using it and it’s  still perfect after several years. 
And if your boat interior gets wet enough to damage it you’ll have more to worry about than the lining going soggy.  

[WotEver]

14 minutes ago, starman said:

Dare I utter ‘MDF’.

Only suitable if OP is intending to paint it. 

[starman]

6 hours ago, WotEver said:

Only suitable if OP is intending to paint it. 

Yes indeed. 

[Slim]

20 hours ago, starman said:

Most modern t&g will have cupped into a semi-circle by the time it's dry and seasoned. It's also full of knots which definitely need treating with knotting and primer at least on the undersides. Wood quality is rubbish unless you have the cash to get hardwood machined up.
If I was painting the outer surface I'd use a second fix nailgun, fire pins under the surface the and fill the tiny holes. (I just bought one and it's so fast). I must admit I've not tried gluing when fitting stuff to our boat; secret nails seem to inevitably split the tongues, I've used visible fixings like brass screws but I reckon the smartest finish personally is plugging.
 

If trying to secret nail, to avoid splitting the tongue, drill tiny holes first using a Dremel drill. Time consuming but effective.