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Ohana's tiller is pretty short and quite heavy as a result. It's not got the usual smaller diameter end for an extension or a hole for a tiller pin.

 

Is there a simple and safe way to extend this by a foot or so without having to take the whole thing to an engineering shop for drilling?

 

Thanks,

Stuart.

tiller 1.jpg

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It may be hollow.   A tap test or a small hole drilled in from the end, or up from below, will tell you.  You should be able to do any drilling without removing the rams head.

If so an extension, or a smaller piece that will take a 'normal' loose tiller can be slipped into the centre, after sawing the appropriate amount off the existing tiller.

Either drill and tap from below or glue it in with araldite.  Drill any tiller pin holes in both bits and check the assembly before fitting!

 

Failing that find a piece of tube that will slip over the outside.  Steel can be painted fancy, brass can be polished. You can secure the extension with a thumbs crew as it will be easy to get somewhere suitable drill and tap.

N

 

P.S. If it is only a short extension a wood turner should be able to make something which fits over the existing end and can be glued on with sikaflex or similar.

 

Edited by BEngo
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6 minutes ago, Galilee said:

Ohana's tiller is pretty short and quite heavy as a result. It's not got the usual smaller diameter end for an extension or a hole for a tiller pin.

 

Is there a simple and safe way to extend this by a foot or so without having to take the whole thing to an engineering shop for drilling?

 

Gaffer Tape and a stick! :D

 

A handle of the same diameter and a metal sleeve that joins the two pieces?

 

It looks quite a bit longer than mine (hard to judge from the picture) so is the tiller and rudder moving freely on the bearing or is it "sticky?"  If so then either replacing or lubricating the top bearing will help.

 

If it moves freely when the boat is stationary but stiffens up when moving, this can be a large or not well balanced rudder.

 

 

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55 minutes ago, BEngo said:

 

P.S. If it is only a short extension a wood turner should be able to make something which fits over the existing end and can be glued on with sikaflex or similar.

Or the existing tiller is tubular, hacksaw or angle grind off the plate on the end, and you could have a wooden extension fitted to the inside of the tube, as is typical on brass extension tubes.

 

 

p.s. I suggest that first you lash or gaffer tape a suitable piece of wood to the tiller so you can see how it handles with a longer tiller, and confirm that it is worth going ahead, before cutting anything or spending any money.

Edited by David Mack
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8 minutes ago, David Mack said:

p.s. I suggest that first you lash or gaffer tape a suitable piece of wood to the tiller so you can see how it handles with a longer tiller, and confirm that it is worth going ahead, before cutting anything or spending any money.

Sound idea here from David.  Whilst you're considering it, also ensure that the "new" length of tiller doesn't project beyond the boat's port and starboard sides so that it can't foul on a lock wall when the steering is hard over.

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Good ideas here, thanks all.

 

I don't think it's hollow, so I was thinking along the same lines as this, but I hadn't considered a thumb screw, so was worrying about drilling for the tiller pin. This sounds like a great solution.

 

Failing that find a piece of tube that will slip over the outside.  Steel can be painted fancy, brass can be polished. You can secure the extension with a thumbs crew as it will be easy to get somewhere suitable drill and tap.

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2 hours ago, Galilee said:

so was worrying about drilling for the tiller pin.

Drilling through a solid tiller swan neck isn't as scary as it at first seems. I assume you have access to an electric drill of some sort. Sharp high speed steel (HSS) drill bits are essential. I'd recommend the Nitride coated ones as they keep their edge longer. Start with a small size bit, maybe 3mm, then open the hole up to the size you want with increasing size bits.

Jen

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2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Dot punch right at the top and make sure the drill is kept vertical in all planes  Someone else watching helps if you dont have a drill press

I'd actually go further and file a small flat before centre punching. When drilling freehand, it's all too easy to go well off line while attempting to keep the drill in the dot!

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