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What kind of fuse holder is this?


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Looks to me by picture and description that the OP is inserting the fuse in either side of the spring clips rather than in the clip itself. I know the first picture is out of focus but it looks like the normal slight vee between the two arms of the clips.

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10 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

Push the fuse in until the plastic part touches the spring clips on the holder.

Oh, they're sprung clips that should fold around the fuse legs, are they?  Never seen that before. I've only ever seen spade-connector type sockets for blade fuses.

I had already pushed the fuse in as hard as I could with my fingers lots of times before starting this thread,  but it wouldn't flex the metal, it just hurt my fingers and felt like I might break the fuse holder. So that's why I didn't think the fuse was right for the holder.

 

But!!! After your suggestion I thought "Feck it. If I break it I'll just buy a new one" and I opted for flipping the whole thing upside down and pressing it, fuse end down, as hard as I could with my bodyweight pushing it against the stove top (just for want of a hard surface to resist my pushing), and *click!* it went in! Thank you. It may never, ever come out again, but it went in! ?

 

Thank you everyone ? I now have a fuse in a fuse holder ?? And I've learned about sprung clip thingies. ?

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4 minutes ago, BlueStringPudding said:

I had already pushed the fuse in as hard as I could with my fingers lots of times before starting this thread,  but it wouldn't flex the metal, it just hurt my fingers and felt like I might break the fuse holder. So that's why I didn't think the fuse was right for the holder.

 

If they are that stiff I sometimes loosen them slightly with a small screwdriver (shove the flat screwdriver blade in and out a few times) but if they tight they make a sound electrical connection.  Hopefully the fuse won't need to come out unless it blows, so it can be pulled out with pliers if needed.  This tends to break the plastic though, so have a spare fuse handy if you need to do this!

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A whole thread about putting a fuse into a fuseholder ?.

 

It does sound to be tighter than it should be. Get some spare fuses and get then in a range of current values, they come in different colours so are a nice pretty things to have in the spares box, then if you have a miserable day you can sort through them to cheer yourself up. If you are the sort of person who has really bad days then its also worth getting a collection of Wade compression fittings, its really nice to sort through them.

 

................Dave

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21 minutes ago, BlueStringPudding said:

Oh, they're sprung clips that should fold around the fuse legs, are they?  Never seen that before. I've only ever seen spade-connector type sockets for blade fuses.

I had already pushed the fuse in as hard as I could with my fingers lots of times before starting this thread,  but it wouldn't flex the metal, it just hurt my fingers and felt like I might break the fuse holder. So that's why I didn't think the fuse was right for the holder.

 

But!!! After your suggestion I thought "Feck it. If I break it I'll just buy a new one" and I opted for flipping the whole thing upside down and pressing it, fuse end down, as hard as I could with my bodyweight pushing it against the stove top (just for want of a hard surface to resist my pushing), and *click!* it went in! Thank you. It may never, ever come out again, but it went in! ?

 

Thank you everyone ? I now have a fuse in a fuse holder ?? And I've learned about sprung clip thingies. ?

Of course, if it needs to be replaced, and you break the fuse carrier in the process, the beauty of blade fuses is that in an emergency you can discard the fuse carrier and connect spade connectors direct to the fuse

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If you buy really cheap fewses the plastic top is likely to pull of the metal blade when extracting it and leave the fuse behind and then have to resort to plyers to extract it, like a tooth.

 In fact it might be wise to take the fuse box to the dentist to extract a fuse, free on the National health. During the present Corona virus thing a dentist should be only too pleased to carry out this little operation for you. No horrid lurgy emerging from someones gob so no need to wear a mask either. :closedeyes:

Edited by bizzard
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5 hours ago, dmr said:

A whole thread about putting a fuse into a fuseholder ?.

 

It does sound to be tighter than it should be. Get some spare fuses and get then in a range of current values, they come in different colours so are a nice pretty things to have in the spares box, then if you have a miserable day you can sort through them to cheer yourself up. If you are the sort of person who has really bad days then its also worth getting a collection of Wade compression fittings, its really nice to sort through them.

 

................Dave

I've got loads of the fuses. I use them all over the boat. Just never this kind of fuse holder. You're right about the purdy colours. I've even got some that have a tiny light on the top to let you know if the fuse has blown. ? (Somewhat disappointingly, I've yet to blow one of those fuses to see the pretty light in action)

5 hours ago, mayalld said:

Of course, if it needs to be replaced, and you break the fuse carrier in the process, the beauty of blade fuses is that in an emergency you can discard the fuse carrier and connect spade connectors direct to the fuse

I never thought of that. Ingenious. 

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The OP received these with a Smartgauge.

 

In the last few weeks I got the same items with my Smartgauge.

 

The two items definitely don't go together. Maybe someone took the fuses out of the incorrect parts box, but they are not compatible.

I dropped into my local garage who studied them and said the same thing.

 

I dumped my holders and got some nice rubber waterproof ones, as they need to go right on the battery to be effective. The instructions imply this , but you don't want a couple of meters of 18 gauge wire from the battery BEFORE it gets to the fuse.

 

Bob

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7 minutes ago, WotEver said:

But outside of the battery box.  That's important.

You know what I meant. ...?

 

Some people will just 'assume' that the fuses should go up with the Smartgauge…..which means you have several meters of skinny wire carrying the full battery capacity..before the fuses.

 

The discussion here...is about the fact that the fuses don't fit those holders.

As you will read from my own experience....the fuses don't fit the holders.....?

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Just now, WotEver said:

You didn't push hard enough ;)

To be quite honest...the 'provided' fuses didn't want to fit the rubber holders either.....they did take a lot of force almost to breaking point.

I couldn't really be bothered to faf about that long...so just ditched the lot...and used my own units.

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31 minutes ago, Bobbybass said:

The OP received these with a Smartgauge.

 

In the last few weeks I got the same items with my Smartgauge.

 

The two items definitely don't go together. Maybe someone took the fuses out of the incorrect parts box, but they are not compatible.

I dropped into my local garage who studied them and said the same thing.

 

I dumped my holders and got some nice rubber waterproof ones, as they need to go right on the battery to be effective. The instructions imply this , but you don't want a couple of meters of 18 gauge wire from the battery BEFORE it gets to the fuse.

 

Bob

Gibbo will be disappointed that his successors can't be bothered to get the details right - he is/was a stickler for good practice.

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Just now, Murflynn said:

Gibbo will be disappointed that his successors can't be bothered to get the details right - he is/was a stickler for good practice.

Actually... he probably couldn't care less now.  He's sold it, banked the money, and is quite happy in his isolation.

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20 hours ago, TheBiscuits said:

Get the rubber gloves of wussiness and a bit of spare wire ...

Nobody disses the Rubber Gloves of Wussiness ??

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

You didn't push hard enough ;)

Aye. It just took a huge amount of force to make it fit. I thought I was going to break it (or me). But I didn't ?

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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1 hour ago, Bobbybass said:

The OP received these with a Smartgauge.

 

In the last few weeks I got the same items with my Smartgauge.

 

The two items definitely don't go together. Maybe someone took the fuses out of the incorrect parts box, but they are not compatible.

I dropped into my local garage who studied them and said the same thing.

 

I dumped my holders and got some nice rubber waterproof ones, as they need to go right on the battery to be effective. The instructions imply this , but you don't want a couple of meters of 18 gauge wire from the battery BEFORE it gets to the fuse.

 

Bob

Is that just because of the thinness of the cable? Only I expect most cruiser stern boats like mine have a fuse box for all their internal appliances/lights etc inside the boat, a couple of metres away from the batteries which are outside under the deck. ?

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1 hour ago, BlueStringPudding said:

Is that just because of the thinness of the cable? Only I expect most cruiser stern boats like mine have a fuse box for all their internal appliances/lights etc inside the boat, a couple of metres away from the batteries which are outside under the deck. ?

But best practice is to fuse the main feed to the fuse box close to the batteries but many do not. I added on to my boat when I got it.

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