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Kahana 2

fitting a heat exchanger to a stw3

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Hi guys

 

just wondering if any one has any pics or advice as to how the set up heat exchanger on a stw3 any similar pics welcomed. Still raw water cooling currently and just picked 20200528_092706.jpg.3a37113d43b6392f90810304f0feb4ef.jpgup a tube style exchanger and header tank 

 

Cheers 

Garrick

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May I ask what you hope doing so will achieve.

 

If you want antifreeze in the system then as long  as you have a skin tank the raw water system can be plumbed to use the skin tank and header tank.

 

I doubt the Lister requires a pressurised cooling system so fitting a heat exchanger just adds complications in that you will have two water pumps and still use raw water. Anything can be done but I truly question if its worth the work.

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Umm not sure havent seen a skin tank set before poss not common in nz is that a keel called type set up ? The reason was I had a starter fail so I've been hand starting for last 10 yrs or so and what is didnt know was the starter was providing current through cyc1 and it has some corrosion  within the cooling area thought this might help keep it from continuing to do any further damage and keep salt built up at bay.

 

Currently it working well thou 

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8 hours ago, Kahana 2 said:

Umm not sure havent seen a skin tank set before poss not common in nz is that a keel called type set up ? The reason was I had a starter fail so I've been hand starting for last 10 yrs or so and what is didnt know was the starter was providing current through cyc1 and it has some corrosion  within the cooling area thought this might help keep it from continuing to do any further damage and keep salt built up at bay.

 

Currently it working well thou 

Ah, so probably a sea or estuary boat in which case getting salt water out of the engine is probably an excellent idea.  Also unlikely to be a narrow boat so may well have a wet exhaust and that complicates things to a degree and needs raw water.

 

I can't see the raw water pump in your photo so don't know what type it is.

 

Yes. its is a crude form of keel cooling and if you do not need a wet exhaust I think that you could simply connect the raw water inlet to one end of a keel cooler and the outlet (most likely at the exhaust mixing elbow) to the other. You will then need to fit an expansion tank by teeing it into the highest point in a coolant hose. That just leaves the wet  exhaust (if you have one) to deal with. That will need another raw water pump fitting and that in turn may need another pulley fitting to the crankshaft but I see n your case you have an unused pulley groove.

 

Fitting a heat exchange is similar except the present raw water inlet and outlet hoses go to the body of the heat exchanger and the new raw water circuit goes via the core.

 

In all cases if you have a gearbox or engine oil cooler it would go into the new raw water circuit or into the return from the keel cooler or heat exchanger.

 

If there was ever an STW option with a centrifugal engine  water pump then that would provide the circulating pump. I don't know but @RLWP or @bizzard etc. may but I expect it would involve different pipe work on the engine. Hope someone familiar  with those engines can give more help.

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cheers Tony sorry should have mentioned its a sea going vessel its running  a wet exhaust  and has a cam driven jabsco raw water pump..

Listers aren't that common in NZ seen anything useful on you tube as yet.

Thanks sorry Umm not sure havent seen a skin tank set before poss not common in nz is that a keel called type set up ? The reason was I had a starter fail so I've been hand starting for last 10 yrs or so and what is didnt know was the starter was providing current through cyc1 and it has some corrosion  within the cooling area thought this might help keep it from continuing to do any further damage and keep salt built up at bay.

 

Currently it working well thou 

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Your best bet is see how warm the pipe from the exhaust manifold gets - it is the one that sticks up on the left hand side of your picture. That one is getting direct heat from the exhaust

 

I think I can see a  thermostat housing on the far end of the engine, otherwise it would be useful to have some more pictures. There are a variety of ways the cooling system on these engines can be set up

 

Richard

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42 minutes ago, Kahana 2 said:

cheers Tony sorry should have mentioned its a sea going vessel its running  a wet exhaust  and has a cam driven jabsco raw water pump..

Listers aren't that common in NZ seen anything useful on you tube as yet.

Thanks sorry Umm not sure havent seen a skin tank set before poss not common in nz is that a keel called type set up ? The reason was I had a starter fail so I've been hand starting for last 10 yrs or so and what is didnt know was the starter was providing current through cyc1 and it has some corrosion  within the cooling area thought this might help keep it from continuing to do any further damage and keep salt built up at bay.

 

Currently it working well thou 

Yes, its best to give full details, remember we have many boaters and owners on UK canals that live in your part of the world so your location gives  no clue about the boat.

 

From reading about the damage salt water does corrosion wise inside the engines I think you are wise to see if you can convert it to a heat exchanger or keel cooler system - I would go for keel cooler because if the raw water pump fails the engine won't overheat, you will hear, see and smell the loss of raw water through the exhaust.

 

I don't understand the bit about the starter, corrosion, and cyc 1. If its and earth return (via the body & block) starter I suspect it may be a red herring as long as the battery negative has the thick connection to the starter negative terminal. I can't see why electricity shoudl flow through the water in the block when it has an all metal path. In any case the starting current should only be only present when starting.

 

A further though - if this is a wet liner engine then depending upon how its fitted the liner may not make a very good electrical contact with the block so it further reduces the risk of electrical liner corrosion. However with wet liner (if that is what you have) cavitation can cause erosion damage to the wet side of the liner.

 

Edited by Tony Brooks

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