Through hull fittings

[ditchcrawler]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Did you look in the hire boat BSS? I think the minimum height used to be in the ordinary BSS but was dropped some years ago. I am sure its in the hire boat BSS.

No I thought it was a private boat as as I can't find it I was wondering where it was to be an advisory, I will now read the rest of the thread in case some has answered it 

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

No I thought it was a private boat as as I can't find it I was wondering where it was to be an advisory, I will now read the rest of the thread in case some has answered it 

Try post #13

[ditchcrawler]

5 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

That is why most 'private' narrowboats can not easily achieve the commercial BSS requirements of 10" without complicated 'swan-neck' piping systems that take the pipe back to above the 10" height and then back down to the skin-fitting.

 

From the BSS :

 

To reduce the risk of your boat sinking if it keels over or is excessively weighed down, it's a good idea for privately owned boats to only have openings which are at a height of at least 250mm (10ins) above the waterline. Where openings are necessary below this level this risk can be reduced by ensuring that these openings are permanently and securely connected to ducts or pipes, which are watertight up to that level.

Self-draining cockpits may not be able to meet the 250mm (10ins) recommendation but, for privately owned boats, it's a good idea to stop water getting into other parts of the hull by incorporating non-return valves in the drains and/or having bulkheads or cills up to a height of 150mm (6ins).

A weed hatch, if not properly secured, can allow water into the bilges of a boat, which could ultimately cause it to sink. It's advisable for privately owned boats to have a secure and watertight weed hatch which reaches to at least 150mm (6ins) above the waterline, when the boat is loaded up as normal. [10.3]
 
 
 

that bit from the BSS, did that come from the BSS check sheet as I didn't see it?

[Alan de Enfield]

6 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

No I thought it was a private boat as as I can't find it I was wondering where it was to be an advisory, I will now read the rest of the thread in case some has answered it 

https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination-and-certification/non-private-boats/part-10-non-private-boats-safety-features/hull-openings/

 

Have a scoot around in here - it is spread around various sections.

Edited May 29, 2020 by Alan de Enfield

[ditchcrawler]

9 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination-and-certification/non-private-boats/part-10-non-private-boats-safety-features/hull-openings/

 

Have a scoot around in here - it is spread around various sections.

Yes but how could an examiner give an advisory to a private boat on that, he shouldn't even be using that documentation

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, ditchcrawler said:

Yes but how could an examiner give an advisory to a private boat on that, he shouldn't even be using that documentation

This document (the 2002 BSS) did apply to both Private & commercial boats - the standards were subsequently watered down for private boats and toughened up for commercial boats.

 

In some ways I agree, but remember the examiners are a rule unto themselves, if it was an 'old-timer' examiner he was probably bought up under the 2002 rules and has never updated his CPD hours by reading the new requirements.

[PaulD]

6 hours ago, Mad Harold said:

You could if feasible,fit a "grey water" tank. compulsary I believe in some countries.

I used a grey water tank to reduce the number of through hull fittings and keep them 250mm above water level. 

The bloody thing needs more maintenance than the engine!

[Alan de Enfield]

25 minutes ago, PaulD said:

The bloody thing needs more maintenance than the engine!

I must be doing something wrong - what maintenance does a grey water tank need ?

[system 4-50]

My preferences:

1. Use a separate hull orifice for each device.  Making the hole and fitting a hull fitting is just so easy. Keeps the drainage simple.

2. Don't fit a trap to a basin sink. You don't need it. And if it isn't there it can't freeze.

3. Use robust hose of the full size of the sink waste. Don't reduce it.  A quick-draining sink is a blessing.

4. Use double jubilee clips on both ends of the hose.

5. Avoid sharp bends on the hose.

6. Keep the exit hull fitting as high as you can without compromising draining.

7. Make the sink high - many sinks (particularly kitchen sinks) are so low that they are painful to use for any length of time (and I'm not tall).

[PaulD]

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I must be doing something wrong - what maintenance does a grey water tank need ?

I have replaced the Johnson Ultima level switch about 5 times in 10 years, That is after drying them out to get a few more months life. £50 each and I think I got 3 replaced under warranty. The others I lost the receipts. It is a horrible wet sticky job usually at about 11 PM.

There is no IP rating so it's my fault for installing it. American spec like chlorinated chicken.

Once a year a good clean out is needed which is also a lovely job.

I much prefer the engine maintenance in the sunshine.

 

[dor]

The surveyor who advised my fitout said to use skin fitting as high as feasible, marine grade hose double clipped with SS jubilee clips, connected to screwed fitting to sink. Then top of sink (or overflow) became the effective height of the outlet for RCD.

[Alan de Enfield]

17 minutes ago, PaulD said:

I have replaced the Johnson Ultima level switch about 5 times in 10 years, That is after drying them out to get a few more months life. £50 each and I think I got 3 replaced under warranty. The others I lost the receipts. It is a horrible wet sticky job usually at about 11 PM.

There is no IP rating so it's my fault for installing it. American spec like chlorinated chicken.

Once a year a good clean out is needed which is also a lovely job.

I much prefer the engine maintenance in the sunshine.

 

It sounds a fair bit more involved than mine.

 

Our tank does not have any fancy 'electrics' so nothing to go wrong.

I know it lasts a 'good' 4 or 5 days so pump out within that time scale.

 

It has a big screw lid (probably 12"-14"  diameter) so once empty it is easy to occasionally pour in some hot water, washing up liquid and scrub the sides with a long handled brush.

 

I have the same type of 'lid' on the water tank and on the Black water tank.

 

[ditchcrawler]

We hired a boat in France, The toilet went straight overboard but the grey water went into a tank, when the tank was full it just drained overboard, The stink was something else

[blackrose]

On 29/05/2020 at 09:15, Alan de Enfield said:

 

That is why most 'private' narrowboats can not easily achieve the commercial BSS requirements of 10" without complicated 'swan-neck' piping systems that take the pipe back to above the 10" height and then back down to the skin-fitting.

 

That really depends on the depth of the sink and the height of sink installation to start with + the amount of freeboard to gunwale height which is what most people use as their reference for worktops and sink unit height. If people insist on deep Butler-type kitchen sinks in a kitchen at the back of the boat then they're unlikely to be able to put a skin fitting high enough above the waterline. I put in all my skin fittings and they're all at least 10" above the waterline.