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My very old 12 volt Inlander under counter fridge with icebox has been running constant. I fully defrosted it and switched it back on at 7pm. by 9pm not switched off and thinking a supply issue swapped the wiring over to the 12 volt freezer that has thicker wiring at 10mm2 direct from the batteries. Its still constantly running. Dial at 2.5.

 

There is a big Gap between fridge and worktop so think air flow is ok. The 12 volt under counter freezer works perfect next to it.

 

The ice box is falling apart with gaps to fridge space and as it's probably 20 years old think its probably fit to scrap?

 

Don't really want to buy 12 volt due to cost. As I'm Marina based, thinking a 240 Volt unit. Any suggestions? Must be 50cm wide. When out, I'll run it off my Victron 3KVA Multiplus inverter that's 2 years old.

 

Many thanks. James.

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4 hours ago, Halsey said:

no problem if you have already made the 240/inverter decision go to Currys/AO.com - use the search facility lots of threads on here about this issue there's one still very much alive started by Lady G

Thanks. I had a look last night and all are A+ rated. Ideally want a A++ one. A+ are very cheap compared to a 12 volt one. Most 12 volts cabinets look the same as the cheapest of mains fridges!

4 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

The reason the 12 volt freezer is still running perfectly is because you bought it from a very good source :D

Indeed, from yourself!:lol:

 

The funny thing is this morning the fridge had reached temperature and switched it's self off. On again, so see how long it runs for. 3.4A on monitor when it fired up, so see how it goes. Don't think its getting too hot, but compressor was hot and cleaned the fins which were very dust free. It seems to like having a hissy fit every now and again!

 

Thanks. James.

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20 minutes ago, canals are us? said:

Thanks. I had a look last night and all are A+ rated. Ideally want a A++ one. A+ are very cheap compared to a 12 volt one. Most 12 volts cabinets look the same as the cheapest of mains fridges!

Indeed, from yourself!:lol:

 

The funny thing is this morning the fridge had reached temperature and switched it's self off. On again, so see how long it runs for. 3.4A on monitor when it fired up, so see how it goes. Don't think its getting too hot, but compressor was hot and cleaned the fins which were very dust free. It seems to like having a hissy fit every now and again!

 

Thanks. James.

See the other fridge threads of the last couple of days....The value/high price are in the 12 volt compressors so the fridge converters tend to use really cheap donor fridges to stop the price going even higher. I feel this is false economy, putting a high quality 12 volt compressor into a cheap fridge is daft. I thought that at least some on the Inlander conversions did use a better donor fridge.

 

...............Dave

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12 minutes ago, dmr said:

I feel this is false economy, putting a high quality 12 volt compressor into a cheap fridge is daft. I thought that at least some on the Inlander conversions did use a better donor fridge.

Isn't the Inlander in the op about 20 years old. If so, it seems to have done a fairly good job, and was a pretty good donor?

 

Of course, I may have missed something, so e & oe :) 

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I'm wondering whether the unit need to be regassed - the symptoms reported suggested that.

My aged Batts / Lec fridge (still working at least 20 years old) runs 'quite often' due to the cheap casing and poor thermostat.However, the compressor just gets warmish and the coils are 'tepid' . It's a proper fridge freezer (not a fridge with a 'conservator' compartment which is what most of 'you lot' have.

The Management (and if pushed so do I) like lots of ice in our drinks and to avoid regular shopping, we can hold more frozen food.

As a replacement and for folks who don't insist on under the counter stuff, I suggest that Liebherr fridges are A** rated CT2131, CT2531). The 2131 fits reasonably flat against the cabin side (with the TV recorder boxes on top making a visual separation between the kitchen area and the main cabin.

The Management doesn't object, so the layout must be OK. It doesn't fit with modern styling (sod styling anyway - we prefer something that 'works')

 

Add -

Somebody mentioned 'high quality 12v' compressors. Methinks it's not a matter of special quality, more of the fact that they are made in smaller quantitite and require a lot of trickery to work on DC voltages....

Edited by OldGoat
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Not sure about fridges and their marketing, but a while back was looking at a new tumble drier (for the house) and thought I would go for an energy effiecient heat pump variety. Worked out the purchase and running costs over 5 years and surprise surprise there was no difference in total cost, between normal and heat pump versions. Either by some unlikely quirk of manufacturing the extra purchase cost exactly matched the expected energy saved costs, or far more likely the suppliers and/or manufacturers just wanted their share of the energy saving, if the device lived longer than 5 years, you the customer may get some saving, but I am not sure if I will last longer than 5 years.

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17 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

Isn't the Inlander in the op about 20 years old. If so, it seems to have done a fairly good job, and was a pretty good donor?

 

Of course, I may have missed something, so e & oe :) 

Our Shoreline is based on a cheap LEC model?. Its still going strong after over ten years but has a bit of rust and some cracks in the door seal, so I have no real complaints, but it sort of feels like a cheap fridge and for what we paid for it I just wish it felt a bit more "expensive"

 

.................Dave

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1 minute ago, Rebotco said:

If it does need re-gassing it MUST have a leak.

Regassing won't fix the leak!

Most pressurized items leak over an extended period of time. It really depends upon the timescale. 

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8 minutes ago, Slim said:

Most pressurized items leak over an extended period of time. It really depends upon the timescale. 

Domestic refrigerators are not "most" pressurised systems.

There are no threaded joins or sealing washers.  All joints are welded or brazed.

That is why there are many examples, even quoted in this thread, that are still running satisfactorily after more than 20 years.

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