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Bilge rust.


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My engine bilge is separated into two parts. One half I cannot get at because I have a large diesel generator installed. It really is impossible to get access to it. There is some rust that I can’t get to. I could possibly get a Hoover in there to get rid of any loose bits but other than that I’m stuffed. Can anyone recommend or advise me of anything I could possibly flood it with. 

Thanks. 

Edited by fudd
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11 minutes ago, fudd said:

My engine bilge is separated into two parts. One half I cannot get at because I have a large diesel generator installed. It really is impossible to get access to it. There is some rust that I can’t get to. I could possibly get a Hoover in there to get rid of any loose bits but other than that I’m stuffed. Can anyone recommend or advise me of anything I could possibly flood it with. 

Thanks. 

Waxoyl sprayer, ebay, Halfords.

s-l640.jpg

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1 hour ago, bizzard said:

Waxoyl sprayer, ebay, Halfords.

s-l640.jpg

 

I think I would warm (not boil) the Waxol before spraying to minimise its viscosity and hopefully help penetration. As advised to me by mates who were actively involved in applying Dinatrol to vehicles which is a similar product. Not sure how Waxol will take to being submerged on a regular basis though, probably the best you can do though.

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Just now, Tony Brooks said:

 

I think I would warm (not boil) the Waxol before spraying to minimise its viscosity and hopefully help penetration. As advised to me by mates who were actively involved in applying Dinatrol to vehicles which is a similar product. Not sure how Waxol will take to being submerged on a regular basis though, probably the best you can do though.

Thanks Tony. The bilge is dry now. It has been for a few years but with time on my hands I want to do all the little jobs I should have done 10 years ago. 

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If you can get a hoover in, can you get a scraper in. Scrape all the loose stuff and hoover it out. Then, would it be too difficult to get some Vactan in there with an angled brush, in an attempt to convert the rust, before doing anything else.

 

My concern with Waxoyl is that it coats a surface to prevent rust starting, and you will be coating the rust - I'm no expert, so may not matter.

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I've suggested this before for a totally different indication but have a look at a radiator (painting) roller.  = small diameter, narrow (?4") roller on an elongated shaft/handle. Might not be long enough in your situation but will get you into some awkward places.

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29 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Most boats have inaccessible areas of bilge, where rusting presumably continues unnoticed and unworried about for years. Why are you particularly concerned?

Because the skin tank for the generator is welded to the baseplate and I’m bored. 

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Other end of the boat for me today, 

I've sanded and given the gas locker a coat of vactan ready for painting tomorrow.

 

The engine bay will be left for another day. I'm sure there are areas of the boat that can't be seen that are quietly rusting but I can't do anything about that.

 

It might just be me but I feel that the areas that can be seen and got to should be maintained. 

When looking to buy I walked away from quite a few boats that had engine bays in a right state.

If what you can see is a mess what does that suggest about the rest.

 

I intend to keep this boat for a long time and I'd rather slap a bit of paint on now than have a huge welding bill further down the line. 

I'll second openers suggestion of a mini roller too, it made prepping the gas locker less difficult.

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4 hours ago, Richard10002 said:

If you can get a hoover in, can you get a scraper in. Scrape all the loose stuff and hoover it out. Then, would it be too difficult to get some Vactan in there with an angled brush, in an attempt to convert the rust, before doing anything else.

 

My concern with Waxoyl is that it coats a surface to prevent rust starting, and you will be coating the rust - I'm no expert, so may not matter.

I always understood that Waxoyl does both - protects steel and kills existing rust. The Hammerite website seems to confirm this 
https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/

I have used DInatrol and found that it works well.

Edited by Traveller
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I've found one of the Dinitrol products particular useful before. It comes in an aerosol and is a rust treatment. With a tube/straw attachment it will spray quite far and is not thick so easily sprays into crevices. I'll try and find the one I"be used......

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1 hour ago, NewCanalBoy said:

I've found one of the Dinitrol products particular useful before. It comes in an aerosol and is a rust treatment. With a tube/straw attachment it will spray quite far and is not thick so easily sprays into crevices. I'll try and find the one I"be used......

That was my experience too - I believe I used the cavity wax.

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19 hours ago, Traveller said:

I always understood that Waxoyl does both - protects steel and kills existing rust. The Hammerite website seems to confirm this 
https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/

I have used DInatrol and found that it works well.

OK... it seems that most Hammerite products can be applied directly to rusty surfaces. Must have some similar ingredients to the Vactan and Fertan stuff, which converts it.

 

 

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I think Waxoyl is over rated. I did my old bilge liberally, with it years ago and the problem is that it doesn’t really penetrate old rust and it definitely doesn’t kill it. I don’t know how they got that claim past trades description. 
Any moisture that gets under it doesn’t dry because it can’t evaporate which makes things worse than NOT having it.

I scraped a crust of old Waxoyl up a couple of years ago, and brushed the area with a mixture of engine oil and diesel. I then drizzled some water on it and it just ran off. Still water proof ?

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I think it's been mentioned before on this forum. Waxoyl is meant to be sprayed up underneath vehicles. Water may splash up and run off. If it goes in a bilge then water sits on top of it. It's not designed for this. 

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2 hours ago, jenevers said:

I think Waxoyl is over rated. I did my old bilge liberally, with it years ago and the problem is that it doesn’t really penetrate old rust and it definitely doesn’t kill it. I don’t know how they got that claim past trades description. 

I couldn't find the actual ingredients, to confirm that there is a rust converter involved. By the same token, I was also unable to confirm that there isn't.

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13 hours ago, Richard10002 said:

I couldn't find the actual ingredients, to confirm that there is a rust converter involved. By the same token, I was also unable to confirm that there isn't.

Well there isn’t! If there was a rust converting ingredient, it would be named.

1 minute ago, Traveller said:

But is not that true of any covering?

Yes but it shouldn’t get through to be underneath.

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7 minutes ago, jenevers said:

Well there isn’t! If there was a rust converting ingredient, it would be named.

Yes but it shouldn’t get through to be underneath.

But I have seen painted bilges where the water has got below the paint and lifted it. I am not giving Waxoyl a plus or minus vote as I use a competitor product but I know some who swear by it.

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5 hours ago, Traveller said:

But I have seen painted bilges where the water has got below the paint and lifted it. I am not giving Waxoyl a plus or minus vote as I use a competitor product but I know some who swear by it.

Be interesting to see if they still swear by it after 10 years?

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