Fridge 12 volt purchase

[bizzard]

20 hours ago, LadyG said:

Oddly, that fridge is only on Ebay, at least I can't see it anywhere else.

It seems smaller on the outside than on the inside!

Perhaps it's been turned inside out, like a sock.

[LadyG]

16 minutes ago, dor said:

I wouldn't fit a 12V fridge at say 4 or 5 metres from the batteries with anything less than 6 sq mm, and preferably 10.  It's the startup current you have to deal with not the running current.  Fridges tend to have a high startup current as you are effectively starting an electric motor under load.

Well the electrician indicated he had over-specified the cable as we had not decided on the fridge, It certainly is thick! It cost £15.00 at trade prices, and it is about 15 m long, there and back, [I think it is twin cable]  there is plenty spare at the fridge end.

I think the existing wiring is dedicated to fridge, I could play bout with the fuse/breakers things. The post and std internal DC lights are two circuits., if that helps

Edited May 9, 2020 by LadyG

[Movin' on]

28 minutes ago, dor said:

I wouldn't fit a 12V fridge at say 4 or 5 metres from the batteries with anything less than 6 sq mm, and preferably 10.  It's the startup current you have to deal with not the running current.  Fridges tend to have a high startup current as you are effectively starting an electric motor under load.

Sorry for misleading you I've just found a left over bit of mine and its 6mm - 5m run direct from battery bank

35 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Yes, the electrician did install a dedicated thick  DC wire, but it is just the wire, [ I think I should leave well alone]., as he does not want to touch existing electrics, but I expect I could get by with existing wiring which works without  ignitin,g  as the new fridge will draw less power than  the old one. I believe it is the power rating which will be the altered factor, it should also run a lot less frequently , the run is quite long, but has worked for fifteen years.

Looking at the   

As the fridge is DC, will it be impossible to connect the wires up the wrong way ? Wot I mean is, do I need to know which wire is line and which is neutral?

jo

I think I' get a Shoreline under £500, due to "Crick Discount", I have not seen better. 

 

If you are dealing from distance make sure you are dealing with someone (pref shoreline direct) with a good returns policy our last one had to go back - and make sure they have 12v and 240 v tested YOUR fridge (after you have paid) but before they despatch 

Edited May 9, 2020 by Halsey

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

As the fridge is DC, will it be impossible to connect the wires up the wrong way ? Wot I mean is, do I need to know which wire is line and which is neutral?

Positive and negative, not line and neutral, the latter is used exclusively for 230V mains. 
 

Yes, it’s essential that it’s connected the correct way round. 

Unless the existing cables are at least 6mm² then don’t use them. 

[cuthound]

2 hours ago, LadyG said:

Well the electrician indicated he had over-specified the cable as we had not decided on the fridge, It certainly is thick! It cost £15.00 at trade prices, and it is about 15 m long, there and back, [I think it is twin cable]  there is plenty spare at the fridge end.

I think the existing wiring is dedicated to fridge, I could play bout with the fuse/breakers things. The post and std internal DC lights are two circuits., if that helps

 

Use reducing crimps to connect the cable to the fridge terminals if they are too large.

 

 

[LadyG]

11 hours ago, WotEver said:

Positive and negative, not line and neutral, the latter is used exclusively for 230V mains. 
 

Yes, it’s essential that it’s connected the correct way round. 

 

 

Yes, sorry, I knew that, just got my words mixed up.

 

Edited May 9, 2020 by LadyG

[LadyG]

Perseverence pays,, I found a fridge on Mylor Chandlery [no connection], my price and my colour choice, delivery 14 to 35 days!

I discovered along the research route, that the Dometic CRX has freezer capability ie can be larder fridge, or fridge with ice box, or a freezer, while the CRE is either larder frdge, or fridge with ice box, not easy to extract these details. 

The fridge is stated to draw 5 amps which is not bad. I hope I can get the old one out [involves strong men].

 

Thanks to all who responded

jo

 

 

 

Edited May 16, 2020 by LadyG

[LadyG]

On 09/05/2020 at 11:28, Halsey said:

Sorry for misleading you I've just found a left over bit of mine and its 6mm - 5m run direct from battery bank

 

If you are dealing from distance make sure you are dealing with someone (pref shoreline direct) with a good returns policy our last one had to go back - and make sure they have 12v and 240 v tested YOUR fridge (after you have paid) but before they despatch 

That would be ideal, but it will drop shipped, and I know Dometic/Waeco seem to send out some damaged goods, but I have bought it on Paypal, and used credi card, fingers crossed it will be OK. 

[Trevor Lyons]

On 08/05/2020 at 11:06, mrsmelly said:

My mains fridge with the inverter running draws about 4 amps so slightly higher than a 12 volt fridge. However even though that makes it look as though it takes more leccy to run the mains unit in fact it doesnt. The build quality is much better, its heavier due to a better cabinet and more insulation so the mains unit actualy runs far less than my 12 volt ones ever did. 

I agree entirely, and having had experience of 12v fridges, I'm pleased that my fridge/freezer is 240v.

 

I also agree that a gas fridge is better than a 12v item, except that gas can leak into the bilges, from whence it is hard to eradicate. I'm glad my boat is entirely gas free, which has the added benefit of my not having to lug gas bottles about, nor waste space on a gas locker.

[LadyG]

I really needed plug and go type nstallation. Starting from scratch I would have made a simple sytem, lots of solar, 240v fridge, nice big quality invertor,  nice little washing machine. 

I get the impression invertors die on a regular basis, sometimes with  magic smoke, and that is really off-puting.

[dor]

5 hours ago, LadyG said:

I really needed plug and go type nstallation. Starting from scratch I would have made a simple sytem, lots of solar, 240v fridge, nice big quality invertor,  nice little washing machine. 

I get the impression invertors die on a regular basis, sometimes with  magic smoke, and that is really off-puting.

My Powermaster, now 13 years old and used on average about three days a week over that time, has been faultless.

 

I can remember Gibbo saying that condensation kills inverters more than anything.  I'm careful with mine to avoid condensation after having it squawk at me early on when it probably did have some condensation in it. 

[nicknorman]

Our Combi is 9 years old and been pretty much on 24/7 for all that time. FLW!

Edited May 16, 2020 by nicknorman

[mrsmelly]

1 hour ago, dor said:

My Powermaster, now 13 years old and used on average about three days a week over that time, has been faultless.

 

I can remember Gibbo saying that condensation kills inverters more than anything.  I'm careful with mine to avoid condensation after having it squawk at me early on when it probably did have some condensation in it. 

I have a power master. My boat has been full time liveaboard since built in 2008 and still faultless. Brilliant kit.

[LadyG]

Long term, I would like a  big inverter up at the stern with the big battery bank, insted of now, where a lot of things start at the bow batteries.    I don't even know if the bow batteries are deep cycle, but I might replace them next year, maybe one 135 deep cycle would be adequate, I don't really know. I am not even using the shower at the moment,  I assume the solar is only able to replace the energy used by the water pump , the phone, tablet, and wifi.

It must be the fridge and the Webasto that is sucking energy, I have them  switched off most of the time. A new 12volt fridge is on order but  more solar is the priority.

If I had a reliable electrician and I felt it essential to have a bigger invertor, I might consider the £1000-£1200 investment worthwhile, but at the moment,  I can manage without because the main thing is the laundry, which costs me about £300 per annum.  It is just inconvenient. 

 

[nicknorman]

On the subject of a big inverter, bear in mind you need a decent battery bank (3 x 110Ah minimum, I’d say) to run it if you want to use much power. It is not just about saying “right, I have 110Ah of battery capacity and I want to boil the 2kW kettle, which takes 6 mins so that is 20Ah which is no problem out of 110Ah”. It is also about the battery’s ability to deliver a lot of current for a short time, and taking more than about 50A from a single battery is going to be problematic.

 

There is no point in having a “big inverter” if the batteries can’t supply a “big load” even for a few minutes.

Edited May 17, 2020 by nicknorman

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, nicknorman said:

On the subject of a big inverter, bear in mind you need a decent battery bank (3 x 110Ah minimum, I’d say) to run it if you want to use much power. It is not just about saying “right, I have 110Ah of battery capacity and I want to boil the 2kW kettle, which takes 6 mins so that is 20Ah which is no problem out of 110Ah”. It is also about the battery’s ability to deliver a lot of current for a short time, and taking more than about 50A from a single battery is going to be problematic.

 

There is no point in having a “big inverter” if the batteries can’t supply a “big load” even for a few minutes.

Yep,  ftted 3 x 135 amp AGM s last year, binned 4 old rubbish,  LA, and AGM mixed, I think.

I kept two AGMs of unknown heritage , formerly bow thruster batteries, possibly.   All batteries seem to get all their energy from solar plus engine alternator.

The fridge is centrally placed on the stbd side, the wiring seems to run down from the stern batteries towards the bow batteries on the port side, then back to the fridge which must be 12 volt.

My thinking is that I probably have about 600 ah, but if the 2 bow battereis are only 60 % of their orignal capacity, it could be about 500. Even then it should give autonomy for three days if I turn the fridge off most of the tme., and don't shower!

I fire up the engine for an hour or more in the morning if not bright sun rather than waiting till they are struggling and I need to run engine for 7 hours, as once happened. I have to manage the electricity, its not the end of the world, but I would lke a fridge that chills my gin 24/7. And keeps milk fresh for four days, like normal people, 

 

Edited May 17, 2020 by LadyG

[cuthound]

On 16/05/2020 at 12:23, LadyG said:

I get the impression invertors die on a regular basis, sometimes with  magic smoke, and that is really off-puting.

 

21 hours ago, dor said:

My Powermaster, now 13 years old and used on average about three days a week over that time, has been faultless.

 

I can remember Gibbo saying that condensation kills inverters more than anything.  I'm careful with mine to avoid condensation after having it squawk at me early on when it probably did have some condensation in it. 

 

19 hours ago, nicknorman said:

Our Combi is 9 years old and been pretty much on 24/7 for all that time. FLW!

 

My Victron Combi is now 12 and a half years old and still going strong.

 

When I was working the solid state (as opposed to rotary) Uniterruptible Power Supplies (basically a battery charger, battery and inveter all in one unit) used to last 15-20 years of continuous use. When they failed it was usually caused by electrolytic capacitors drying out.

 

The rotary machines needed new bearings every year,  but were otherwise reliable until the electrolytic capacitors in the control units dried out.

Edited May 17, 2020 by cuthound
Clarification

[MrsM]

Hi @dor and @mrsmelly this is s question about the Power Master inverter. We have one on our 2008 boat; a Power Master SL 3Kw combined inverter/charger. It hasn't missed a beat so far and we are not thinking of replacing it at the moment. According to our paperwork it also has a built-in solar charge shunt regulator. We would like to add solar this year and wonder if you, or anyone else, are able to advise what we should look at getting. I contacted Bimble but they couldn't advise. The original supplier no longer sells these inverters and is also unable to help. We are happy calculating the amount of solar power we need, it's more a case of how we connect this to our inverter, ie the kit we need to do this. We are heavy leisure users with a home mooring. I know there are dozens of solar threads on the forum but it would be invaluable to get some advice from someone with experience of these particular inverters, especially as this is our first boat and so a big learning curve for us. TIA. M

Edited April 22, 2021 by MrsM
Spotted another inverter owner

[Richard10002]

On 08/05/2020 at 11:36, Richard10002 said:

Same here on our boat. Very pleased, and forgot about the expense around 3 months after purchase  

Re CRX 50 ... as above, until it broke down later last year  

[Alan de Enfield]

Our CRX 80 has run sweet as a nut for several years now - took a while to get it sorted, as it needed much heavier (bigger) cabling than the previous make of 12v fridge.

 

Certainly recommend Dometic.

[LadyG]

Ok, several iterations down the line and my Coolmatic, waeco from 1999 died.

I pulled it out a bit from its housing and it turned itself off, ie I have disconnected it from the electricity.

It is 85 X 55 , h x w, and there is no model number, which Jackson's tech dept require Also they are finished for the day.

I tried to get the thing out so it can go the the tip.

It is attached to electricity by a few wires which could be removed from the control unit. Spade connectors.

The control unit is outside, top left hand side facing.

There is a solid bit of wire, as in not flexible electrical cable. I cannot see how to remove this other than by removing the complete control unit. I don't know what it is.

The control unit is approx four inches wide, two inches high and one inch deep.

What should I do?

 

[rusty69]

8 minutes ago, LadyG said:

Ok, several iterations down the line and my Coolmatic, waeco from 1999 died.

I pulled it out a bit from its housing and it turned itself off, ie I have disconnected it from the electricity.

It is 85 X 55 , h x w, and there is no model number, which Jackson's tech dept require Also they are finished for the day.

I tried to get the thing out so it can go the the tip.

It is attached to electricity by a few wires which could be removed from the control unit. Spade connectors.

The control unit is outside, top left hand side facing.

There is a solid bit of wire, as in not flexible electrical cable. I cannot see how to remove this other than by removing the complete control unit. I don't know what it is.

The control unit is approx four inches wide, two inches high and one inch deep.

What should I do?

 

I was looking at a 12V Waeco a few weeks back. The model info was inside on the top, just inside the door.

[LadyG]

1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

I was looking at a 12V Waeco a few weeks back. The model info was inside on the top, just inside the door.

It's not on mine, the only info is a metalic label, CE, right at the back, I've tried a photo without succes.

Jackson's tech said it would be a white label , but there is nothing.

I can't get it out, that's the problem.

Edited August 24, 2022 by LadyG

[Tony Brooks]

12 minutes ago, LadyG said:

What should I do?

 

 

Possibly post some photos because I have yet to see a 12V compressor fridge with the control unit remote from the fridge itself and that solid piece of wire sounds as if it might be the thermostat capillary tube. I do know you could get 240V AC in 12V DC out "boxes" to run Shoreline 12V fridges when on a shore line.

[LadyG]

5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Possibly post some photos because I have yet to see a 12V compressor fridge with the control unit remote from the fridge itself and that solid piece of wire sounds as if it might be the thermostat capillary tube. I do know you could get 240V AC in 12V DC out "boxes" to run Shoreline 12V fridges when on a shore line.

 

5 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Possibly post some photos because I have yet to see a 12V compressor fridge with the control unit remote from the fridge itself and that solid piece of wire sounds as if it might be the thermostat capillary tube. I do know you could get 240V AC in 12V DC out "boxes" to run Shoreline 12V fridges when on a shore line.

It is fixed to the fridge, on the top, 

 I don't know how to force flash 

The stiff steel thing could be a thin tube!