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Fridge 12 volt purchase


LadyG

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Ready to buy a new 12v fridge, what is best

CRX 50 at £545

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dometic-Waeco-CoolMatic-CRX50-Compressor-Fridge-Freezer-48-Litre-12V-24V/283514742633?

or CR 50 at £459

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DOMETIC-CRE50-LIKE-CRX50-12V-24V-DC-COMPRESSOR-CARAVAN-CAMPERVAN-BOAT-45L-FRIDGE/303186242664?

or should I try Midland Chandlers?

 

Having a freezer or  larder fridge option is a good option for me, but  economy of electricity is main thing.

I will have spare shelves from my existing fridge, but is may not be exact size.

I like a salad drawer, but it is not a deal breaker at £50 extra.

 

 

 

Edited by LadyG
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Shoreline gets my vote as well - like mini washers they are expensive cos they are special but the bits still tried and tested the "thin/narrow" one they make is particularly good.

On board energy are often worth a look for deals............they source via same route as "swindlers" but are much cheaper

model RR102/W

Edited by Halsey
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Also have a look at Inlander, a smaller Birmingham based company, they do some interesting coloured and retro styled fridges. When we replace our ageing Shoreline it will likely be with an Inlander.

 

Shoreline are probably the biggest name in fridges, my only real criticism is that they use some pretty basic fridges as a base for their 12 volt conversions. Its the 12v compressor that accounts for the high price and when spending this sort of money I would prefer to pay even a little more for a better quality base fridge.

 

I think (not sure) that if you find a good mains fridge then Inlander might do a custom 12volt conversion for you.

 

................Dave

 

 

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I bought a Shoreline last year and it is a perfectly adequate fridge with a small freezer compartment in the top and a salad drawer. Draws around 3 amps. The electrical hook up at the back has an extra spade connector for a fan so I cut a hole into the adjacent hanging locker and fitted a computer fan. This switches on whenever the fridge starts up and sucks all the warm air out from the fridge recess - which used to get quite  hot. The fan uses only 0.3amps.

I shopped around  and Jones Boatyard had it for £80 cheaper than Midland Chandler but they matched the price when I called them. It was very convenient to pull up to their dock at Braunston and have it wheeled out to the boat.

24 minutes ago, Halsey said:

Shoreline gets my vote as well - like mini washers they are expensive cos they are special but the bits still tried and tested the "thin/narrow" one they make is particularly good.

On board energy are often worth a look for deals............they source via same route as "swindlers" but are much cheaper

model RR102/W

 

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5 minutes ago, dmr said:

Also have a look at Inlander, a smaller Birmingham based company, they do some interesting coloured and retro styled fridges. When we replace our ageing Shoreline it will likely be with an Inlander.

 

Shoreline are probably the biggest name in fridges, my only real criticism is that they use some pretty basic fridges as a base for their 12 volt conversions. Its the 12v compressor that accounts for the high price and when spending this sort of money I would prefer to pay even a little more for a better quality base fridge.

 

I think (not sure) that if you find a good mains fridge then Inlander might do a custom 12volt conversion for you.

 

................Dave

 

 

I've used Inlander in the past - they used to do used 240v "conversions" as part of their core business model selling them as reconditioned and they were a great buy - wether they will convert one you supply I'm not sure .

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My mains fridge with the verter running draws about 4 amps so slightly higher than a 12 volt fridge. I have had plenty of both 12volt and mains fridges over the years ( Gas is best ) However even though that makes it look as though it takes more leccy to run the mains unit in fact it doesnt. The build quality is much better, its heavier due to a better cabinet and more insulation so the mains unit actualy runs far less than my 12 volt ones ever did. Its not just what ampage is used, more relevant is how long it runs in any 24 hour period. Once purchased a DECENT inverter pays back over the years, not least in the one item a decent fridge with masses of choices in size etc etc for well under 200 quid. My present boat had 12 volt fridge and freezer when I bought it, both are now running happily on other forum members boats and I have lovely mains units.

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31 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

Once purchased a DECENT inverter pays back over the years

I'm sure you've told us before, but which make/model/wattage of inverter do you have, and what "no load" current does it draw when not in standby.

 

I'm currently thinking of getting rid of my Sterling inverter charger which, as you know, draws 4A when on.

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yes, well, I have no electrician at the moment, it might be a major job to have fridge on to an inverter, I have no suitable inverter, I don't have enough solar at the moment, I can't do it myself, but I can stick a new fridge in a hole under counter, the existing coolmatic overheats.

The boat electrics are not thought out for anyone off grid .

A smallish fridge will chill gin and dairy plus meat. Nothing large required as the smaller it is, the better the ventilation.

Thanks all, Shoreline have been on this a.m. Seemingly it's a Bank Holiday, lol.

I have my flags out. 

Edited by LadyG
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13 minutes ago, Richard10002 said:

I'm sure you've told us before, but which make/model/wattage of inverter do you have, and what "no load" current does it draw when not in standby.

 

I'm currently thinking of getting rid of my Sterling inverter charger which, as you know, draws 4A when on.

my present inverter draws 0.4 of an amp when on standby mode and kicks in instantly when asked to by the fridge. Its a power master which allas no longer have any UK distributers but are available from manufacturer I believe. I was amazed how good it was when I purchased the boat from the builder who had bought about thirty of these units and was miffed they were not readily available. Its now 12 years old and still faultless and been running 12 years more or less. Befor I used to buy mastevolt and would again. My last mastervolt stood at iirc 0.9 of an amp when doing nowt, brilliant bits of kit. I think you know I had for a short time on one boat the similar unit to yours and indeed I was amazed on purchase to see it did indeed use 4 amps on standby:o unadulterated crap. Ok I spose for a hobby boat but useless for living aboard. I have seen Power master brand new and still available in Germany recently.

Edited by mrsmelly
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2 hours ago, dmr said:

Also have a look at Inlander, a smaller Birmingham based company, they do some interesting coloured and retro styled fridges. When we replace our ageing Shoreline it will likely be with an Inlander.

 

Shoreline are probably the biggest name in fridges, my only real criticism is that they use some pretty basic fridges as a base for their 12 volt conversions. Its the 12v compressor that accounts for the high price and when spending this sort of money I would prefer to pay even a little more for a better quality base fridge.

 

I think (not sure) that if you find a good mains fridge then Inlander might do a custom 12volt conversion for you.

 

................Dave

 

 

And so close to the canal that you could wheel it down to the towpath if so inclined.

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1 hour ago, pearley said:

And so close to the canal that you could wheel it down to the towpath if so inclined.

Not so inclined, thanks, I need the fridge delivered, preferably next week, as I am close to a road,, and strong men.

Inlander fridges are mostly too big, in fact it is difficult to get a small fridge.

Edited by LadyG
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3 hours ago, WotEver said:

We fitted the Waeco CRX50 on WotEver and were very pleased with it.

I think that the current fridge  [coolmatic, aged] ,  is same dimensions, but it overheats, due to lack of ventilation, so a smaller fridge would suit better.

Edited by LadyG
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3 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I think that the current fridge  [coolmatic, aged] ,  is same dimensions, but it overheats, due to lack of ventilation, so a smaller fridge would suit better.

I see Swindlers have the inlander at £435 today which is better than they used to be.

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20 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

I see Swindlers have the inlander at £435 today which is better than they used to be.

The Inlander website says that because everybody is, or is going to be, skint that they have dropped their prices.

 

........Dave

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19 minutes ago, dmr said:

The Inlander website says that because everybody is, or is going to be, skint that they have dropped their prices.

 

........Dave

A very annoying website as one needs to look at every model due to limited "search" 

and what does 1.12 amp hours really mean? Not impressed by product descriptions, some don't even suggest power usage, all a bit strange for a specialist company.

https://inlanderlowvoltage.com/product/12v-smeg-under-counter-fridge-22

This is perfect, except it is white, and I want black, and it may not fit, so not really perfect, lol, but I know Smeg are a good company and the storage is excellent,

 

Edited by LadyG
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2 minutes ago, LadyG said:

A very annoying website as one needs to look at every model due to limited "search" 

and what does 1.12 amp hours really mean?

I suspect "average hourfly consumption" - and that's potentially misleading  as they don't say what's in it at the time of test.

Umm - if the current one is only being rejected because it gets too hot, is there no way you could fit a fan or mebe generate some air flow? Just because the case is smaller doesn't mean that it will generate less heat... The other reason is that if it needs re gassing it'll run hot...

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47 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

I see Swindlers have the inlander at £435 today which is better than they used to be.

Oddly, that fridge is only on Ebay, at least I can't see it anywhere else.

It seems smaller on the outside than on the inside!

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29 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

I suspect "average hourfly consumption" - and that's potentially misleading  as they don't say what's in it at the time of test.

Umm - if the current one is only being rejected because it gets too hot, is there no way you could fit a fan or mebe generate some air flow? Just because the case is smaller doesn't mean that it will generate less heat... The other reason is that if it needs re gassing it'll run hot...

The whole Inlander fridge capacity in "bags of shopping" is unreal, lol.

The current one is in a poor state, eats electricity, door seal gone, I am not even sure if I can get it out of the galley without lifting it four feet in the air. I can slide it out only so far, then wires tighten.

Cold air from bilges and out at top has so far proved impossible, I really don't have big power tools / skills, which might  be required,

I have some idea that the current Coolmatic [?Waeco] is sitting on a plinth, I can't get it out to look at the wiring, as it has been installed before the galley was built, not helpful at all. I don't know if the wiring is a conventional 3 pin UK plug, as I can't see one, [nothing on this boat seems conventional]

The last electrician decided he need a new 12 volt wire, but it is not connected to either end, ie it is just the wire! There is a 12 / 240 volt power pack thing which I think comes in to action when the shoreline is connected. I really am out of my depth!

Edited by LadyG
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There is NO DOUBT that if you are running it on 12V you will need a thick wire from batteries to Fridge ideally with no interruption/spurs off.

Any decent chandlers will advise and sell to you from a distance.- others here will know I'm sure but app 3mm+ feels right from a distance 

 

If your eBay fridge is one from Limekiln and you don't know them they re VERY good people to deal with on price, service and advice.

Edited by Halsey
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18 hours ago, Halsey said:

There is NO DOUBT that if you are running it on 12V you will need a thick wire from batteries to Fridge ideally with no interruption/spurs off.

Any decent chandlers will advise and sell to you from a distance.- others here will know I'm sure but app 3mm+ feels right from a distance 

 

If your eBay fridge is one from Limekiln and you don't know them they re VERY good people to deal with on price, service and advice.

Yes, the electrician did install a dedicated thick  DC wire, but it is just the wire, [ I think I should leave well alone]., as he does not want to touch existing electrics, but I expect I could get by with existing wiring which works without  ignitin,g  as the new fridge will draw less power than  the old one. I believe it is the power rating which will be the altered factor, it should also run a lot less frequently , the run is quite long, but has worked for fifteen years.

Looking at the   

As the fridge is DC, will it be impossible to connect the wires up the wrong way ? Wot I mean is, do I need to know which wire is line and which is neutral?

jo

I think I' get a Shoreline under £500, due to "Crick Discount", I have not seen better. 

Edited by LadyG
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18 hours ago, Halsey said:

There is NO DOUBT that if you are running it on 12V you will need a thick wire from batteries to Fridge ideally with no interruption/spurs off.

Any decent chandlers will advise and sell to you from a distance.- others here will know I'm sure but app 3mm+ feels right from a distance 

 

If your eBay fridge is one from Limekiln and you don't know them they re VERY good people to deal with on price, service and advice.

I wouldn't fit a 12V fridge at say 4 or 5 metres from the batteries with anything less than 6 sq mm, and preferably 10.  It's the startup current you have to deal with not the running current.  Fridges tend to have a high startup current as you are effectively starting an electric motor under load.

Edited by dor
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