Lockdown jobs in the sunshine ?

[canals are us?]

16 hours ago, canals are us? said:

Cleaned the windows one day then gave the whole boat a wash!

 

Not washed the roof/sides in 3 years. Amazing the amount of dirt that came off. Also dirt on the sides that had a film on. So much cleaner looking.

Plan to replace the stove pipe as rotten in roof collar when I cleaned the chimney a few weeks ago.

Repaint well deck as rusty under rubber matting. Grinding disk job in grinder.

 

Touch up boat paintwork on roof and well deck. Surprisingly no rust scabs since I last painted the boat 3 years ago and rest of paintwork looks good, if not as shiny as new.

 

Biggest job is to remove most of the windows, grind back rust on top, paint and refit. Probably paint a border round each window in same colour as still got some paint left

 

Re-paint boat fully in 3 more years!

 

James.

Now Clean!

[Rickent]

I changed the fuel filter on my engine today, a job I have been putting off for a while as I had been led to believe that the Perkins 4107 is a bugger to bleed.

Had no problems, all running as it should. Happy days. 

[blackrose]

I've started prepping the cabin sides. The existing paont is 15 years old and never been touched so I've gone over it with a 180 grit paper which has left a sound surface. 

 

The plan was to give it a couple of coats of Hemple/Blakes single pack Primer Undercoat before applying topcoats. However I've gone through the paint to the steel in some places where it was rusty including the nasty gouge down the side where some twat intentionally left a piece of rebar protruding from the side of a bridgehole in Watford about 12 years ago. Also the existing paint has hundreds of little rust spots so I'm going to need to treat these areas first. I don't really like rust converters and feel it's better to get the rust off mechanically if one can but trying to get the rust out mechanically would leave an uneven surface for me to fill and I don't fancy trying to fill all those rust spots.

 

I looked at Vactan and Hammerite Kurust which both seem to use the same sort of rust converter in polymer matrix technology. The trouble is that Kurust says not to apply to paint which is no good if it doesn't bond well to the paint areas around the rust spots. I assume Vactan is the same. I think the rust conversion properties of these products is fine but I'm just not convinced that the polymer matrix makes a good primer. So a bloke near me is using Fertan and at first I thought it was the same crap but then he showed me how it worked and it does look like a better product, albeit a bit more work to wash off the excess that's sitting on surrounding paint, bare metal and non-rusty areas. It also takes much longer to work than Vactan or Kurust (24-36 hours) The upside is that Fertan has a 15 year shelf life while vactan only has about a year to 18 months. Fertan is German and I can't help thinking that they know what they're doing more than us Brits.

 

So I got hold of a bottle although I'd like to get the bit I've prepped painted asap I think I'm going to apply Fertan once it cools down a bit this evening and then just apply water with a spray bottle tomorrow to keep it activated. You're not supposed to apply Fertan above 30C and I've just taken a IR thermometer reading of the cabin side and it's 59C! Then unfortunately the weather is set to change on Saturday or Sunday so no painting until next week.

 

Any advice from seasoned boat painters would be appreciated. The glossed cabin sides are where any mistakes become glaringly obvious.

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by blackrose

[Movin' on]

Looking good .............

 

I used a satin finish proper paint from somewhere near Merry Hill (Dudley) last time and for DIY (I've painted a good few over the years - even one I did in Dulux Weathershield which lastest ridiculously well!!) it was a great solution if you pick a strong colour the satin works well special order but no more expensive - I'll try to get the detail if you want it.......

 

Applied with v.good quality mohair radiator rollers and again with the satin it makes no odds.

 

It suited Zulu and I would do it again - if you don't want to be in the really shiny boat brigade (which will sadly really show up every defect) its worth a thought............

 

If you are going shiny spend as much time as you can spare fine surface filling the blemishes and rubbing down again and again..........and again

 

Looking forward to seeing more - BTW how's the new c/heating

Edited May 7, 2020 by Halsey

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Halsey said:

Looking good .............

 

I used a satin finish proper paint from somewhere near Merry Hill (Dudley) last time and for DIY (I've painted a good few over the years - even one I did in Dulux Weathershield which lastest ridiculously well!!) it was a great solution if you pick a strong colour the satin works well special order but no more expensive - I'll try to get the detail if you want it.......

 

Applied with v.good quality mohair radiator rollers and again with the satin it makes no odds.

 

It suited Zulu and I would do it again - if you don't want to be in the really shiny boat brigade (which will sadly really show up every defect) its worth a thought............

 

If you are going shiny spend as much time as you can spare fine surface filling the blemishes and rubbing down again and again..........and again

 

Looking forward to seeing more - BTW how's the new c/heating

 

Thanks. I still haven't sorted out the central heating - painting took precedence. I'm going to be using International 10 Year Gloss as my topcoats. I think it's pretty good paint. I'm never going to get a perfect finish. I'm not a great painter but I'm making an attemp to get it half decent.

[matty40s]

 

Quote

.......RUST SPOTS...FERTAN...!!!!!

I had a quick look using the search function for advice relating to rust converters.....

 

There's one chap keeps cropping up, here's a selection of his quotes....

 

 

Better to do the job properly. Get rid of the rust mechanically and use a decent primer or better still epoxy.

 

There's no rust in those pits (or very little). If you want to do steel prep properly you can so there's never any need to use vactan

 

My advice is don't use Fertan, Vactan or any other rust converter. Get rid of the rust properly and it won't need a rust converter.

 

Get rid of all the rust mechanically and use several coats of a good surface tolerant two-pack epoxy. It will outlast any rust converted/painted steel surface by many years

 

 Prep should be good but it doesn't have to be perfect and what I've done is 10 times better than using vactan

 

You can get the rust out of pits if you're prepared to work at it and that's always going to be better than Vactan.

 

The epoxy is your primer - you don't need an inferior rust converter

 

.......you're considering using a rust converter? 

DON'T DO IT! 

Any half decent epoxy paint will be 10x better than crap rust converters. They're all rubbish in comparison.

 

 

 

 

 

 

   11/03/ I used to think too, but after using V a few times I decided it was rubbish. That acrylic primer doesn't seem to last very long at Get rid of all the rust mechanically and use several coats of a good sftoleratwo-pack epoxy. It will outlast any rust converted/painted

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by matty40s

[Movin' on]

16 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Thanks. I still haven't sorted out the central heating - painting took precedence. I'm going to be using International 10 Year Gloss as my topcoats. I think it's pretty good paint. I'm never going to get a perfect finish. I'm not a great painter but I'm making an attemp to get it half decent.

I was rambling and forgot to say I use Kurust and have for years with no compatibility issues and it lasts well - particularly good for areas around window frames/portholes as it creeps very well

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, matty40s said:

 

I had a quick look using the search function for advice relating to rust converters.....

 

There's one chap keeps cropping up, here's a selection of his quotes....

 

 

Better to do the job properly. Get rid of the rust mechanically and use a decent primer or better still epoxy.

 

There's no rust in those pits (or very little). If you want to do steel prep properly you can so there's never any need to use vactan

 

My advice is don't use Fertan, Vactan or any other rust converter. Get rid of the rust properly and it won't need a rust converter.

 

Get rid of all the rust mechanically and use several coats of a good surface tolerant two-pack epoxy. It will outlast any rust converted/painted steel surface by many years

 

 Prep should be good but it doesn't have to be perfect and what I've done is 10 times better than using vactan

 

You can get the rust out of pits if you're prepared to work at it and that's always going to be better than Vactan.

 

The epoxy is your primer - you don't need an inferior rust converter

 

.......you're considering using a rust converter? 

DON'T DO IT! 

Any half decent epoxy paint will be 10x better than crap rust converters. They're all rubbish in comparison.

 

 

 

 

And I still think that's largely true. However I had mistakenly assumed all the rust converters were akin to Vactan and hadn't actually seen Fertan used before, so I hold my hands up and admit I was wrong there because Fertan does seem quite good. Having used it in the past I still think Vactan is crap.

 

But you're selectively quoting me because what I (and others) have always said is that if you can remove rust mechanically then that's what you should do rather than using rust converters. If you can't remove the rust mechanically then I have no problem using a rust converter.

 

If I could remove the rust on the cabin sides mechanically then that's what I'd do, but as I explained in post #28, that isn't possible without digging out several layers of paint from literally hundreds of little rust spots and in doing so then having to fill all those areas with filler. I know I'd never get that done and all sanded level.

Edited May 7, 2020 by blackrose