Lockdown jobs in the sunshine ?

[blackrose]

Those few weeks of beautiful spring weather are finally over and I managed to get the whole roof prepped and repainted. I've been taking this opportunity to get things done that I've been meaning to do for years but never had enough time or good enough weather.

 

All the old cream is being changed to grey. Just got the cabin sides, gunwales and top planks to paint on both sides now so here's hoping for a few more weeks of good weather.

 

So what ship's jobs have you done?

 

[Movin' on]

That's a big job on a fat boat - I hate doing roofs on my narrow - well done looks great - proper boating..........

Great location/photo

Cheers - keep safe

J

[Dr Bob]

Filled the water tank up today.

[Ray T]

None, I'm not allowed anywhere near my boat.  

A few things need doing though.

Edited April 28, 2020 by Ray T

[LadyG]

Removed old engine oil, flushed engine twice with some spare oil, now I just need to change filter and add proper API CC stuff. 

The roof remains 7/8  painted .............. , paint expected tomorrow ?‍♀️.

 

[Onewheeler]

22 hours ago, blackrose said:

All the old cream is being changed to grey. Just got the cabin sides, gunwales and top planks to paint on both sides now so here's hoping for a few more weeks of good weather.

 

Looks nice! What paint did you use?

[mrsmelly]

17 hours ago, LadyG said:

Removed old engine oil, flushed engine twice with some spare oil, now I just need to change filter and add proper API CC stuff. 

The roof remains 7/8  painted .............. , paint expected tomorrow ?‍♀️.

 

Is the filter still stuck? R us still locked in in Goole? I may be able to come and help if there are no armed guards on the gates? 

[blackrose]

1 hour ago, Onewheeler said:

Looks nice! What paint did you use?

I used International Interdeck as it's the only textured non-slip deck paint I've tried that seems to go on evenly. Some of the others create a terrible mess unless you're some sort of professional boat painter. Interdeck is a bit limited in terms of colours available, so to darken the light grey Interdeck a few shades I mixed in 10 tablespoons of black International Toplac per 750ml can of the deck paint. International's technical dept told me it was fine to mix them. 

 

I see people painting their roofs in ordinary gloss or satin but it's a death trap for slipping in the wet. I use my roof a lot in locks as I'm single-handed and as you can see it has quite a curve so I'd always use a non-slip paint, but I guess if the roof isn't used then it can be painted with anything. The only trouble with that approach is that others may not be aware especially if the boat is sold on.

Edited April 29, 2020 by blackrose

[Onewheeler]

6 minutes ago, blackrose said:

I used International Interdeck as it's the only textured non-slip deck paint I've tried that seems to go on evenly. Some of the others create a terrible mess unless you're some sort of professional boat painter. Interdeck is a bit limited in terms of colours available, so to darken the light grey Interdeck a few shades I mixed in 10 tablespoons of black International Toplac per 750ml can of the deck paint. International's technical dept told me it was fine to mix them.

Ta! I used that a long time ago on my back deck on top of Masons paint. It flaked off in a very annoying way, except in patches which stuck like poo to a blanket when I tried to sand it off.

[blackrose]

23 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:

Ta! I used that a long time ago on my back deck on top of Masons paint. It flaked off in a very annoying way, except in patches which stuck like poo to a blanket when I tried to sand it off.

I've been using Interdeck for many years and never had a problem with it flaking off, but whatever substrate you're painting it to has to be sound itself and properly keyed. That goes for any paint.

Edited April 29, 2020 by blackrose

[waterdog]

On 20/03/2018 at 10:06, Traveller said:

Blackrose did you actually cut right through the brass slider and is 5mm the depth or width of the slot? Thanks.

 

"I cut right through the brass runner and then took the piece out with a screwdriver. I painted over the steel underneath with some primer. Make sure you cut the slot at 45 degrees otherwise your hatch won't slide! 5mm is the width, it may have been slightly wider. The brass strip itself is only about 2 or 3mm deep. 

While you're at it turn the hatch cover over and check for rust at the contact points. Rub it down if it's rusty. I'm actually going to stick a small strip of brass onto that point with stixall to stop the rust returning."

Edited March 21, 2018 by blackrose.

 

Hi Blackrose,

 

I've copied a reply of yours above from a 2018 post. The rear hatch on the new (to me) boat looks like it has been leaking for years, so much so that the internal wood trim is starting to fall apart and obviously I would like to get this fixed.

How well is your method working two years later? and would you have done anything different, I think I've "got it" from your description but do you have any photo's of the slots you cut in the runner so I can see exactly what you did.

 

Thanks

Waterdog

 

Edited April 30, 2020 by waterdog
clarity

[cuthound]

14 hours ago, blackrose said:

I see people painting their roofs in ordinary gloss or satin but it's a death trap for slipping in the wet. I use my roof a lot in locks as I'm single-handed and as you can see it has quite a curve so I'd always use a non-slip paint, but I guess if the roof isn't used then it can be painted with anything. The only trouble with that approach is that others may not be aware especially if the boat is sold on.

 

Completely agree.

 

Our first shareboat had a glossy roof and was lethal if you had to climb on it in the wet, irrespective of the type of footwear.

 

Cleaning a sanded roof with.Aldi Caravan Cleaner, followed by an annual spray of Wet&Forget keeps my cream sanded roof clean and free from green colouration.

Edited April 30, 2020 by cuthound
To unmangle the effects of autocorrect.

[David Mack]

15 hours ago, blackrose said:

Interdeck is a bit limited in terms of colours available, so to darken the light grey Interdeck a few shades I mixed in 10 tablespoons of black International Toplac per 750ml can of the deck paint. International's technical dept told me it was fine to mix them. 

But unless you are very precise with your measuring, then each can will be a slightly different colour, meaning that if you start a new can part way through the final coat the join will show (as will any local touching up).

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, waterdog said:

On 20/03/2018 at 10:06, Traveller said:

Blackrose did you actually cut right through the brass slider and is 5mm the depth or width of the slot? Thanks.

 

"I cut right through the brass runner and then took the piece out with a screwdriver. I painted over the steel underneath with some primer. Make sure you cut the slot at 45 degrees otherwise your hatch won't slide! 5mm is the width, it may have been slightly wider. The brass strip itself is only about 2 or 3mm deep. 

While you're at it turn the hatch cover over and check for rust at the contact points. Rub it down if it's rusty. I'm actually going to stick a small strip of brass onto that point with stixall to stop the rust returning."

Edited March 21, 2018 by blackrose.

 

Hi Blackrose,

 

I've copied a reply of yours above from a 2018 post. The rear hatch on the new (to me) boat looks like it has been leaking for years, so much so that the internal wood trim is starting to fall apart and obviously I would like to get this fixed.

How well is your method working two years later? and would you have done anything different, I think I've "got it" from your description but do you have any photo's of the slots you cut in the runner so I can see exactly what you did.

 

Thanks

Waterdog

 

@blackrose

[W+T]

Got this done. GRP laminated a new plywood top. last had the canvas as was fitted badly. 

 

 

 

And laminated. Just managed to get it done, even though under cover the canopy had a small hole in it.

 

 

 

 

[David Mack]

This chap has something to show for his lockdown challenge.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/av/uk-england-sussex-52487203/eastbourne-man-builds-railway-in-his-garden

[LadyG]

On 29/04/2020 at 16:39, mrsmelly said:

Is the filter still stuck? R us still locked in in Goole? I may be able to come and help if there are no armed guards on the gates? 

oh, wow!

well it is still stuck, but I can get a big strong guy onsite to have a go ............ its a one handed job, I want to try a clamp thing first, which is only available by slow post [expected Tuesday] ,  there is a shortage in the Toolstation/Screwfix places, and I think autoshops are closed.

 

You are a star!

jo

I'm on a lovely mooring now, same marina, different location, but no electricity, so dependant on six hours of sunshine to keep batteries alive. 

Edited May 1, 2020 by LadyG

[mrsmelly]

3 minutes ago, LadyG said:

oh, wow!

well it is still stuck, but I can get a big strong guy onsite to have a go ............ its a one handed job, I want to try a clamp thing first, which is only available by slow post [expected Tuesday] ,  there is a shortage in the Toolstation/Screwfix places, and I think autoshops are closed.

You are a star!

jo

I'm on a lovely mooring now, same marina, different location, but no electricity, so dependant on six hours of sunshine to keep batteries alive.  

No problems. If you want me to come just ask on here or send me a pm ?

[Ianws]

On 28/04/2020 at 22:47, LadyG said:

Removed old engine oil, flushed engine twice with some spare oil, now I just need to change filter and add proper API CC stuff. 

The roof remains 7/8  painted .............. , paint expected tomorrow ?‍♀️.

 

Is it something like this you were looking for Carpoint CPT0637863 Oil-Filter Spanner with Band https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001AIPF4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_N2HUxz1cpSIXC

 

I’ve got this one. Pretty cheap and nasty but worked. Much better built and more expensive ones are available. Make sure to get one with the tiny grips on the inside of the band. And if you are replacing the filter yourself at least you won’t over tighten it for the next time. I think it’s just hand tight then another quarter or half turn at most. Though it would be good for someone to confirm that. 

Edited May 1, 2020 by Ianws
Typo

[blackrose]

On 30/04/2020 at 08:13, waterdog said:

On 20/03/2018 at 10:06, Traveller said:

Blackrose did you actually cut right through the brass slider and is 5mm the depth or width of the slot? Thanks.

 

"I cut right through the brass runner and then took the piece out with a screwdriver. I painted over the steel underneath with some primer. Make sure you cut the slot at 45 degrees otherwise your hatch won't slide! 5mm is the width, it may have been slightly wider. The brass strip itself is only about 2 or 3mm deep. 

While you're at it turn the hatch cover over and check for rust at the contact points. Rub it down if it's rusty. I'm actually going to stick a small strip of brass onto that point with stixall to stop the rust returning."

Edited March 21, 2018 by blackrose.

 

Hi Blackrose,

 

I've copied a reply of yours above from a 2018 post. The rear hatch on the new (to me) boat looks like it has been leaking for years, so much so that the internal wood trim is starting to fall apart and obviously I would like to get this fixed.

How well is your method working two years later? and would you have done anything different, I think I've "got it" from your description but do you have any photo's of the slots you cut in the runner so I can see exactly what you did.

 

Thanks

Waterdog

 

 

It's still working fine. I'll go out and take a picture. 

 

The slot should be cut so that it sits just under the forward edge of the hatch (I lifted my hatch and slid it back a bit so you can see the slot). Also the slot probably doesn't need to be as wide as mine.

 

Edited May 2, 2020 by blackrose

[waterdog]

35 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

It's still working fine. I'll go out and take a picture. 

 

The slot should be cut so that it sits just under the forward edge of the hatch (I lifted my hatch and slid it back a bit so you can see the slot). Also the slot probably doesn't need to be as wide as mine.

 

Brilliant, thanks.

 

That will be tomorrows job ?

[blackrose]

15 hours ago, waterdog said:

Brilliant, thanks.

 

That will be tomorrows job ?

Don't forget to take the sliding hatch off and check underneath for rust where it's been rubbing on the runner. Because my sliding hatch isn't my main entrance/exit the rust at that particular point had bubbled up and was acting like a sponge for rainwater. 

 

I rubbed it down and primed it and then stuck on a strip of brass with Stixall, so now the hatch and runner is brass on brass and no more rust (hopefully).

[waterdog]

1 hour ago, blackrose said:

Don't forget to take the sliding hatch off and check underneath for rust where it's been rubbing on the runner. Because my sliding hatch isn't my main entrance/exit the rust at that particular point had bubbled up and was acting like a sponge for rainwater. 

 

I rubbed it down and primed it and then stuck on a strip of brass with Stixall, so now the hatch and runner is brass on brass and no more rust (hopefully).

The jobs on hold at the moment, I can tilt the hatch up at the rear but the roof box will have to come off to get the hatch of the runners. 

The hatch runs on four neoprene ?, blocks and that part of it looks OK.

 

I've removed all the rotten internal trim from around the hatch and the panel on the underside so will wait till I've sourced the replacement wood and get it all done in one go. Finding somewhere open that will cut the wood to size will be the difficult bit.

[canals are us?]

Cleaned the windows one day then gave the whole boat a wash!

 

Not washed the roof/sides in 3 years. Amazing the amount of dirt that came off. Also dirt on the sides that had a film on. So much cleaner looking.

Plan to replace the stove pipe as rotten in roof collar when I cleaned the chimney a few weeks ago.

Repaint well deck as rusty under rubber matting. Grinding disk job in grinder.

 

Touch up boat paintwork on roof and well deck. Surprisingly no rust scabs since I last painted the boat 3 years ago and rest of paintwork looks good, if not as shiny as new.

 

Biggest job is to remove most of the windows, grind back rust on top, paint and refit. Probably paint a border round each window in same colour as still got some paint left

 

Re-paint boat fully in 3 more years!

 

James.

[NewCanalBoy]

@Blackrose - what prep did you do to the roof ?

 

Have been think about doing mine. It's fairly good condition just the paint has faded only light scratches really. But want to go from blue to a lighter colour.

 

Did the paint go straight on or do you have to primer it first. (I know that's the normal way but just checking ?)