Help please-carabo stove

[ollymonkeynuts]

Hi, I don’t have a boat/barge but I do have a man cave for which I’ve bought a second hand carabo stove. Photos to follow later. I have questions...I’ve searched this site but not really found answers. I see it’s similar to the boatman stove. It’s missing fire bricks an the circular screw on air regulator thing on the front. Does anyone have an idea where I can get that? There’s also a small 5mm circular hole in the rear, is that just for general air flow? Finally its a 4” it would it be ok to go to a 5/6” flue as A friend might have some for me.

 

I appreciate any help. Thanks, Olly

Edited April 27, 2020 by ollymonkeynuts

[dmr]

Photos needed, especially of the hole in back.

Circular screw might need to be improvised from some other components.

Firebrick "material" is available though not too cheap, you then cut to make your own bricks.

How tall is your chimney?. If the flue is a bit short then increasing the diameter might reduce the draw, and draw can be pretty important.

 

.................Dave

 

[Mac of Cygnet]

42 minutes ago, dmr said:

Photos needed, especially of the hole in back.

Circular screw might need to be improvised from some other components.

Firebrick "material" is available though not too cheap, you then cut to make your own bricks.

How tall is your chimney?. If the flue is a bit short then increasing the diameter might reduce the draw, and draw can be pretty important.

 

.................Dave

 

 

What Dave says.  I have the same stove, but fortunately haven't needed any spares.  The door glass is readily available.   Don't think there is a hole in the back of mine.  It may be a modification to allow a (tiny!) back boiler, but it definitely isn't to help airflow, and should be blocked off.  There have been 3 or 4 other threads on Carabo stoves - you can find them using the search function.  The other thing is the damper in the top - it is too easily blocked, and could be dangerous - I removed mine.

[ollymonkeynuts]

Thanks for the replies, photos now attached. It will need a rub down and spray, missing the side fire bricks but like has been said I might buy a big sheet and cut it down.  Door rope is a little flat so it’s not a airtight seal when the door is shut. There’s no ash tray but that’s not the end of the world. As you can see it’s missing the circular screw on bit at the front and you can see the little hole in the back, doesnt look like a DIY drill hole. Strangely loose inside was the screw shown which fits but then the thread would be sticking in or sticking out? Any ideas.

Edited April 27, 2020 by ollymonkeynuts
Spelling

[mrsmelly]

Fine. Remove the damper at the neck of the flue and skip it. Put a big nut and washer with sealant in the hole at the back. Find an air flow spinner for the front and find or make an ash tray and Bobs yer uncle. Oh and of course as you know replace fire bricks and rope.

Edited April 27, 2020 by mrsmelly

[ollymonkeynuts]

I read that the top damper thing being good at slowing the release of the warmth, keeping more in the stove? Sounds like it could be useful rather than removing it? I’ll have approx 2.5metres of flue (allowing 60cm outside) so could that be ok as a 5 or 6” flue? I’ll bung up the hole, replace the bricks and rope. Would a stove shop have a standard replacement air flow spinner or would I have to try the company who make the similar boatman?

Edited April 27, 2020 by ollymonkeynuts
Spelling

[mrsmelly]

Doubt they are standard? Measure the threads but u will get something somewhere. 

[Bee]

You do need to replace the rope and spinner on the front otherwise the fire will keep on 'drawing' and get too hot. Not sure about the damper in the chimney, it must allow some flue gasses past otherwise carbon monoxide would seep onto the boat / shed or whatever.  Fire cement (easy to get from plumbers etc ) will seal up joints etc and gaps in firebricks.

[sharpness]

That screw is for assembly of a kitchen cabinet, through a side panel and into a chipboard shelf, nothing to do with the boiler.

Edited April 28, 2020 by sharpness

[Mac of Cygnet]

The reason mrsmelly and myself both recommended to remove the damper is that when it is closed, the very small gap is too easily blocked with crud falling down the chimney, a potential danger.  These flue throat dampers are no longer fitted to most stoves.  One peculiarity of the Carabo is that there is no stove rope down the opening side of the door - this is easily seen in your pics.  Consequently there is always a gap for air to get in, and less control of burning rate.  When I converted mine to entirely woodburning (by removing the grate and putting it on the bottom, with ashpan on top), I added stove rope to this side, with much improved control of burning.

[redwing]

On 27/04/2020 at 19:22, ollymonkeynuts said:

 Would a stove shop have a standard replacement air flow spinner or would I have to try the company who make the similar boatman?

Try Eddie at Boatmanstove. 

[David Mack]

The hole in the back and the screw inside suggest to me that maybe someone drilled the hole to screw the stove back against a wall. That is a bad idea. You need a clear space all round the stove to stop adjacent surfaces getting too hot - especially if flammable. Nut and bolt needed to close the hole, and check it from time to time.

If you need to fix the stove in place (and you do on a boat) I would drill holes through two of the feet and bolt through to brackets attached to the hearth/floor.

[Mac of Cygnet]

17 minutes ago, David Mack said:

 

If you need to fix the stove in place (and you do on a boat) I would drill holes through two of the feet and bolt through to brackets attached to the hearth/floor.

 

The feet already have slots for fixing (or mine does - looks like original).

[bizzard]

Streethay wharf boat yard near Lichfield are-were agents for those stoves.  Ray Bowern'' place, the chap who arranges boat transportation. Most of the Chinese stoves use that kind of bottom air spinner, whether the thread is the same I don't know.

Edited May 1, 2020 by bizzard

[Jen-in-Wellies]

It wouldn't be hard to make a spinner, if a suitable one can't be purchased. Saw out an appropriate sized circle of aluminium, maybe 4mm thick  with a jig saw to give enough for a decent number of thread turns. Drill and tap the centre with the same thread as the stud. Maybe drill and tap for a couple of bolts, one each side, sticking out to provide something for fingers to grip to adjust the opening. put a nut on the end of the stud with some thread lock, so the new spinner won't spin off completely if you are too enthusiastic!

 

Jen

[David Mack]

3 hours ago, Mac of Cygnet said:

 

The feet already have slots for fixing (or mine does - looks like original).

I couldn't see any on the OP's photos, but they may already be there.