Re-sealing Windows

[Movin' on]

11 hours ago, Dave .Morialta said:

So having read all the advise and watched a lot of videos i am going with Neoprene tape 12mmx3mm and applied to aperture and a small bead of sikalflex around outer edge of window frame applied to the frame before fitting . Does this sound ok everyone ????

 

As others have said - why use sikaflex as well as tape - good quality tape sourced I would suggest from a proper supplier not an eBay spacial and PLEASE use screws not rivets.

 

Good luck

[nicknorman]

35 minutes ago, blackrose said:

If you're having to use sikaflex with the tape wouldn't that indicate that the tape doesn't work? ?

 

Seriously though, doesn't using sikaflex with the tape negate the benefit of using tape (the benefit being not having to use sikaflex!)  

The tape does work, the sikaflex is for decorative purposes. It’s been suggested that it’s not necessary and maybe so, but having tried various problematic solutions and settled on that one as being effective, I am disinclined to change. The benefit of not using sikaflex as the main sealing agent is that in my experience, it can dry out, crumble and then leak. I have about 5mm bead of sikaflex around the edge which won’t make subsequent removal of the window difficult but just tidies it up a bit.  Maybe unnecessary, but it’s not a big deal.

[ditchcrawler]

12 hours ago, Ryeland said:

I just used tape that was a bit too wide,  then ran a knife around the edges before fitting to give a clean edge.  No problems in 10 years,  and no need to mess around with sealant. I don't have any issue with moss etc growing on it.

Richard 

I have a small recess around the edge as the tape is not flush with the edge

30 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

The tape does work, the sikaflex is for decorative purposes. It’s been suggested that it’s not necessary and maybe so, but having tried various problematic solutions and settled on that one as being effective, I am disinclined to change. The benefit of not using sikaflex as the main sealing agent is that in my experience, it can dry out, crumble and then leak. I have about 5mm bead of sikaflex around the edge which won’t make subsequent removal of the window difficult but just tidies it up a bit.  Maybe unnecessary, but it’s not a big deal.

As we have portholes I did consider making a large O ring and putting that round the brass to fill the gap betweek the steel and brass

[W+T]

Another good way is this stuff, Butyl again but in tube form. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rubber-Based-Strong-Butyl-Sealant-Caravan-Car-Home-DIY-Glass-Panel-GRP-sealer/221384238072?epid=1388441484&hash=item338b8763f8:g:fFEAAOSw42dZAeI2

 

Doing this method works for all sealants though. 

 

Dry fit the window

Mask off around the window frame and around the edge on the cabin. ( inside aswel if you can )

Clean back frame and aperture 

Then apply sealant of choice to aperture and around screw holes.

Fit window and screw down but leave a mm or so of sealant

Run a pointed tool around window where sealant is squeezing out, its MUST squeeze out a little.

Let set a little ( tacky ) and then peel away the waste and remove masking. clean back with adhesive remover any messy bits. 

When set full tighten down.

 

Captain Faffer

 

https://www.facebook.com/waynesboatworkservices/

[WotEver]

15 minutes ago, W+T said:

Another good way is this stuff, Butyl again but in tube form...

Whatever happened to Dum-Dum in a tin?

[Dave .Morialta]

The reason for the sikaflex is the manufacturers of the neoprene tape state the adhesive used to stick it down is not fully waterproof so as a precaution i thought i would put a small bead around the edge. That is the only reason.

[David Mack]

15 hours ago, Ryeland said:

I just used tape that was a bit too wide,  then ran a knife around the edges before fitting to give a clean edge.  No problems in 10 years,  and no need to mess around with sealant. I don't have any issue with moss etc growing on it.

Richard 

If you run a knife around to trim the excess tape off, don't you run the risk of cutting the paint film just at the precise location where you can't repair it properly (without removing the window)?

Edited April 29, 2020 by David Mack

[W+T]

2 hours ago, WotEver said:

Whatever happened to Dum-Dum in a tin?

By eck, not heard of that for a while, stuck many a Capri wing on with that lol.

[blackrose]

3 hours ago, nicknorman said:

The tape does work, the sikaflex is for decorative purposes. It’s been suggested that it’s not necessary and maybe so, but having tried various problematic solutions and settled on that one as being effective, I am disinclined to change. The benefit of not using sikaflex as the main sealing agent is that in my experience, it can dry out, crumble and then leak. I have about 5mm bead of sikaflex around the edge which won’t make subsequent removal of the window difficult but just tidies it up a bit.  Maybe unnecessary, but it’s not a big deal.

Ok, if the windows are still easy to remove then I can see the benfit of tape + sikaflex. But in my experiance I've never known a good PU sealant to dry out and crumble. Not sure which one you used, but I used various versions of Sikaflex while working at a boatyard for a couple of years, plus Marineflex and Stixall on my own boat. They're all good and don't dry out and crumble. My windows have been in for 15 years with Marineflex. If it crumbled I'd know about it.

Edited April 29, 2020 by blackrose

[nicknorman]

3 minutes ago, blackrose said:

Ok, if the windows are still easy to remove then I can see the benfit of tape + sikaflex. But in my experiance I've never known a good PU sealant to dry out and crumble. I used various versions of Sikaflex while working at a boatyard for a couple of years, plus Marineflex and Stixall on my own boat. They're all good and don't dry out and crumble. My windows have been in for 15 years with Marineflex. If it crumbled I'd know about it.

I’m only going by my experience. After about 7 years from new our first window started to leak slightly. I was after a particularly hot spell (differential expansion between steel and aluminium etc). On removing the window, some of the sealant was fine whilst some of it had become hard and crumbly. Not sure exactly what sealant was used. It was also pretty thinly applied which might have been a factor.

[blackrose]

4 hours ago, nicknorman said:

I’m only going by my experience. After about 7 years from new our first window started to leak slightly. I was after a particularly hot spell (differential expansion between steel and aluminium etc). On removing the window, some of the sealant was fine whilst some of it had become hard and crumbly. Not sure exactly what sealant was used. It was also pretty thinly applied which might have been a factor.

 

Ok so if it was hard and crumbly it probably wasn't sikaflex (or any other PU sealant).

Edited April 29, 2020 by blackrose

[Ryeland]

4 hours ago, David Mack said:

If you run a knife around to trim the excess tape off, don't you run the risk of cutting the paint film just at the precise location where you can't repair it properly (without removing the window)?

I did say BEFORE FITTING, so when you fit them the tape is already trimmed.

Richard

[nicknorman]

2 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Ok so if it was hard and crumbly it probably wasn't sikaflex (or any other PU sealant).

What was odd was that some of it was hard and crumbly and some was as you’d expect sikaflex to be. But as far as I could tell it was all the same stuff (identical colour, anyway).