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Removing Kelvin K2 exhaust manifold


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17 hours ago, BrandyMark said:

Replacing a Gardner with a Kelvin, I like it but surprised that hasn't raised a few comments!  I suspect you have tried the usual places for Kelvin spares including Phill Trotter, I was searching on appo duc and found he was selling T3 & T8 bits but in the background of the photos are a good few J's and K's spares including heads and barrels but, getting him to part with them may be a tall order! Good luck with the rebuild.

It's certainly raised plenty of comments, "you must be mad" being the most common. 

It's usually the Kelvin gearbox that I'm warned about, but the Gardner has a very similar cone box that really isn't a problem to operate. 

I've visited Phill Trotter and he does have some good used cylinders,  but unsurprisingly he isn't willing to part with one!  

But it's ok because Seaward are getting back to me with a price,  it's been about 5 years now..

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The lined clutch Kelvin box is fine, once you have ditched any idea of a separate thrust bearing and provided it with a tail shaft that can move backwards and forwards to deliver the necessary prop thrust to hold the cones in engagement.

If you have to have new clutch linings, the modern asbestos free material is a little thicker so neutral is a very narrow band of gear wheel position until everything has bedded in.

The unlined clutch ones can be hard to get into neutral after a long run.

 

Accurate engine/gearbox/shaft alignment is vital whichever sort you have, or the back bearing suffers and all the oil will leak out.

N

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The Gardner No2 box works in the same way, relying on thrust from the propeller to hold it in drive. Unlike the Kelvin you back the pressure off the thrust bearing after engaging gear, failure to do this gets things a little heated.

The box that came with the collection of K4/2 parts is unlined,  Phill said to keep a lump hammer by the stove and leave a floorboard up.

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3 hours ago, noddyboater said:

It's certainly raised plenty of comments, "you must be mad" being the most common. 

It's usually the Kelvin gearbox that I'm warned about, but the Gardner has a very similar cone box that really isn't a problem to operate. 

I've visited Phill Trotter and he does have some good used cylinders,  but unsurprisingly he isn't willing to part with one!  

But it's ok because Seaward are getting back to me with a price,  it's been about 5 years now..

Did you miss my post somewhere above re Phil Robbins in Nineveh, Kent. Took over all the Kelvin spares from Kevin Whittle a few years ago.

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1 hour ago, noddyboater said:

,  Phill said to keep a lump hammer by the stove and leave a floorboard up.

A lump hammer is traditional, and the thrust box edges usually show the evidence.

A strap wrench round the back of the thrust box is a bit less agricultural.  You can leave it fitted but loose so it does not affect gear changing but is handy when you need it.  Or if, you have room, a short piece of flat bar permanently bolted to the thrust box bearing retaining plate gives some extra leverage and a handy spot to apply some boot.

N

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2 hours ago, noddyboater said:

The Gardner No2 box works in the same way, relying on thrust from the propeller to hold it in drive. Unlike the Kelvin you back the pressure off the thrust bearing after engaging gear, failure to do this gets things a little heated.

The box that came with the collection of K4/2 parts is unlined,  Phill said to keep a lump hammer by the stove and leave a floorboard up.

"Phill said to keep a lump hammer by the stove and leave a floorboard up."

 

He told me the story of trawler men returning to harbour after a period at sea in forward gear only. They would circle around the harbour until they could knock the shaft back into reverse with  sledge hammer. Indeed, there was one under the cabin boards when we had 'Enid'.

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22 hours ago, Markinaboat said:

Did you miss my post somewhere above re Phil Robbins in Nineveh, Kent. Took over all the Kelvin spares from Kevin Whittle a few years ago.

Thanks I'll give him a try. I don't think any new K cylinders have been made since the Indian batch when K Whittle was running things. 

The last time I saw Kevin he offered me a good used one he had in the garage but when I turned it around there was a crack big enough to put your windlass in! 

I'm not unduly concerned about the sticking in gear thing, I've got used to dropping the revs with the Gardner and checking things are working as they should be in plenty of time. That doesn't work however when you meet someone in a bridge hole..

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