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Removing Kelvin K2 exhaust manifold


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11 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

On reflection there's no way you would have missed it, Shirley. Them heads would have just, like, stayed down!!

 

 

 

Mike, my intention is to just crack the cylinder head nuts half a turn and then tighten the manifold mountings which in theory, will pull the head inline hence I might have missed the nut. If I was removing the head completely, then you have a good point.

 

From my many years working as a maintenance engineer, I sometime think engineering designers often put a "hidden" screw or bolt or circlip or whatever, just to catch out some poor unsuspecting engineer out or am I the only one this happens to? (and just before anyone responds, yes I know this statement is not true and there is probably a good engineering reason for the "hidden" screw etc.)

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2 minutes ago, BrandyMark said:

Mike, my intention is to just crack the cylinder head nuts half a turn and then tighten the manifold mountings which in theory, will pull the head inline hence I might have missed the nut. If I was removing the head completely, then you have a good point.

 

I'm not sure that's a good idea. How are the heads sealed? You'll be disturbing and changing the seal. I've an idea there is no head gasket, just an iron-to-iron, face-to-face seal. Don't know for sure though, having never taken a head off one.

 

And as a maintenance technician myself, I don't think designers of equipment in general ever give much thought to ease of repair 20 years later. The Kelvin is a bit of an exception, being designed specifically for ease of maintenance at sea by fishermen rather than professional diesel technicians.

 

 

 

 

 

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Yes the head gasket is a steel shim about  1.5mm thick sitting between the cast iron head and the cast iron cylinder.  It should be bolted to the venturi, but often is not. The head gasket sets the bumping clearance, along with the cylinder to crankcase gasket.  If you disturb the heads you will need to clean  up and reseal the head gasket.  Otherwise you will probably get bits of carbon trapped and it will then weep diesel and black  muck from thr head joint.

Wellseal is what I use.  I dares blue Hylomar would also do the job.

 

N

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5 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

I'm not sure that's a good idea. How are the heads sealed? You'll be disturbing and changing the seal. I've an idea there is no head gasket, just an iron-to-iron, face-to-face seal. Don't know for sure though, having never taken a head off one.

 

And as a maintenance technician myself, I don't think designers of equipment in general ever give much thought to ease of repair 20 years later. The Kelvin is a bit of an exception, being designed specifically for ease of maintenance at sea by fishermen rather than professional diesel technicians.

 

 

 

 

 

Going from the spares manual, there is a cylinder head joint. I'm hoping that because the head movement will only be a fraction of a degree, then I will get away with maintaining a good seal. 

 

The more I work on my Kelvin, I think having an genuine Kelvin took kit (as originally supplied with these engines) would make engine maintenance a lot easier - I wonder if one still exist anywhere? 

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4 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Yes the head gasket is a steel shim about  1.5mm thick sitting between the cast iron head and the cast iron cylinder.  It should be bolted to the venturi, but often is not. The head gasket sets the bumping clearance, along with the cylinder to crankcase gasket.  If you disturb the heads you will need to clean  up and reseal the head gasket.  Otherwise you will probably get bits of carbon trapped and it will then weep diesel and black  muck from thr head joint.

Wellseal is what I use.  I dares blue Hylomar would also do the job.

 

N

OK, Looks like I will have to remove the head completely. Back on the boat this afternoon so will have another play.

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9 minutes ago, BrandyMark said:

Going from the spares manual, there is a cylinder head joint.

 

If by joint you mean a gasket, then perhaps yes you'll be fine. Probably solid copper! Can you get away with loosening only one head? 

 

Never seen a Kelvin tool kit. Never heard of anyone having one either....

 

Is there a Kelvin owners' club?

 

 

 

 

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2 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

If by joint you mean a gasket, then perhaps yes you'll be fine. Probably solid copper! Can you get away with loosening only one head? 

 

Never seen a Kelvin tool kit. Never heard of anyone having one either....

 

Is there a Kelvin owners' club?

 

 

 

 

Just one head.

 

No Kelvin club that I know of. There is a Kelvin facebook page and of course Mike Skyner web site (sky-net.org.uk) which as been my main source of Kelvin info. 

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1 hour ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

Never seen a Kelvin tool kit. Never heard of anyone having one either....

 

Yes they exist.  A wonderful collection of giant sized spanners etc.  I gave mine to the new owner of Owl.  These originally came from one of the lighthouses.

The most useful tool is the hockey-stick spanner.

 

1739710916_tools7(1).jpg.636fc268dc78636a53edcca5f2bee51b.jpg

Edited by koukouvagia
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The contents of the tool box which was supplied with each engine are listed in the sales info leaflets for each model. I do not have a K leaflet or list, but there may be one on Mike Skyner's site.  Mostly they were ordinary OE BSF Spanners, so a modern set are actually better than the thicker 30's design.  There were also a couple of special tools.  One was the widget for drawing liners, pictured in the instruction book.  Another was the special spanner for undoing the cylinder to crankcase nuts.  This operated down the cylinder rather than through the doors, sitting on a compression spring around the head studs.  Never seen a live one.

 

Then there were the priming pump, and the carburettor filling gurgle bottle.

N

 

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On 09/04/2020 at 22:49, stagedamager said:

They run on the modern motor Harrier and small Northwich butty Lyra. They do really good work, I am another satisfied customer, they cut a load of 12th scale model parts for my project boat I am working on. 

 

Their website can be found here...

 

https://www.reveriecanaltradingco.co.uk/

 

They also have a facebook page, Instagram feed and you tube channel for those inclined.

I have no hesitation in recommending them for any fabrication works required.

 

Kind regards 

 

Dan

Can. Just being nosey and all that, were they at your boatyard last year? Smart looking pair.

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On 14/04/2020 at 17:17, noddyboater said:

I've got the long bent spanner thing, and an immaculate original gurgle bottle. 

Can't have them on display in the engine hole though cos it's still got a Gardner in there! 

Are you hoping to put them to use one day? or are you looking for a Kelvin owner to give them a new forever home? 

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On 14/04/2020 at 12:40, BrandyMark said:

Just one head.

 

No Kelvin club that I know of. There is a Kelvin facebook page and of course Mike Skyner web site (sky-net.org.uk) which as been my main source of Kelvin info. 

Phil Robbins in Kent took over the Kelvin spares group from Kevin Whittle. He has tooling and can make parts, he's highly knowledgeable and a thoroughly nice chap. It's been 5 yrs since he manufactured some new water pump parts for me so not sure how pro-active they are now but worth a go .. phil@greatnineveh.org.uk

 

You can also try Dick Goble who is 'Mr Kelvin', based in Stoke on Trent bit travels. I can pm his number if required although a google will find him.

 

 

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3 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

Is that a day tank on the bulkhead? And are those real rivets?

Yes it is the day tank and No, the rivets are false - A bit like the boat which is a Barry Hawkins copy of a R W Davis copy of a Northwich Trader complete with false rivets even, for reasons I've never been able to work out,  below the water line! 

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15 hours ago, BrandyMark said:

Are you hoping to put them to use one day? or are you looking for a Kelvin owner to give them a new forever home? 

The plan is to replace the 3L2 with a K2 that's currently a collection of parts,  mostly new like the manifold you borrowed as a pattern.  

I bought it as a half done project which actually started life as a K4, so as you can imagine a lot of money had been spent on the crankshaft work. Unfortunately only one new barrel was available at the time and I'm still searching for another as the original ones are badly corroded. 

I know who has one, but getting a price from them is another thing! 

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6 hours ago, noddyboater said:

The plan is to replace the 3L2 with a K2 that's currently a collection of parts,  mostly new like the manifold you borrowed as a pattern.  

I bought it as a half done project which actually started life as a K4, so as you can imagine a lot of money had been spent on the crankshaft work. Unfortunately only one new barrel was available at the time and I'm still searching for another as the original ones are badly corroded. 

I know who has one, but getting a price from them is another thing! 

Replacing a Gardner with a Kelvin, I like it but surprised that hasn't raised a few comments!  I suspect you have tried the usual places for Kelvin spares including Phill Trotter, I was searching on appo duc and found he was selling T3 & T8 bits but in the background of the photos are a good few J's and K's spares including heads and barrels but, getting him to part with them may be a tall order! Good luck with the rebuild.

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If you plan to use the gurgle bottle, beware.  If you fill them up first thing then go boating, the petrol and the air in the measurement chamber can

expand as the bottle warms up in the engine room.  The petrol then flows out of the spout onto your floor.??

 

N

 

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