How do you test this glow plug please

[Alan de Enfield]

1 hour ago, bigcol said:

Hi Alan

not as yet,

I'll try from another email address.

Let me know later yes / no that they have arrived.

 

Now sent

 

Edited March 27, 2020 by Alan de Enfield

[bigcol]

Alan. I’ve messaged you again

[Alan de Enfield]

12 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Alan. I’ve messaged you again

OK - you have it. 

Good luck.

[bigcol]

Well yesterday I tested the glow plug, in fact I took another out of a old unit that I bought of EBAY.

put both in nothing. And the glow plug is the 1st thing tat is triggered in the start up sequence, which is why I started with it.

Alan reminded me about the dianostic switch so played with that,really nothing.

 

later on got the trouble shooting manual from Alan, and started reading, and reached diagnostics, and this is the first thing I came accross 

see photo.

 

so putting a jumper accross, does the mean a wire?

 

 

col

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

I would say yes it does, that is what I understand by it.

 

Edited March 28, 2020 by Tony Brooks

[MtB]

2 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Well yesterday I tested the glow plug, in fact I took another out of a old unit that I bought of EBAY.

put both in nothing.

 

Col, this isn't actually all that helpful. Far better to report exactly what happened in detail.

 

Do you mean you installed the spare one from ebay into the machine an ran it, and you still got 20 seconds of fan then shut-down? Or do you mean you put the wires onto it and tested it lying on the metal of the machine, and the plug didn't heat up? Or something else?

 

The more detail you can give, in reporting any test result, the better. "Nothing" isn't much help for peeps trying to think this through at a distance. 

 

[Tony Brooks]

29 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Col, this isn't actually all that helpful. Far better to report exactly what happened in detail.

 

Do you mean you installed the spare one from ebay into the machine an ran it, and you still got 20 seconds of fan then shut-down? Or do you mean you put the wires onto it and tested it lying on the metal of the machine, and the plug didn't heat up? Or something else?

 

The more detail you can give, in reporting any test result, the better. "Nothing" isn't much help for peeps trying to think this through at a distance. 

 

 

To amplify Mike's point. However you did the test all it proves is one or more of the following: 

 

You have a fault on your heater

You have two faulty glowplugs

Whatever test you did was not appropriate or done correctly.

 

Also back around post 3 you were asked for the resistance of the plug. I can't see an answer to that question.  If you don't have a multi-meter or don't know how to measure resistance just tell us so we can explain. The resistance of the plug will show if it is likely to EB faulty. If it is expect a 1 (actually an I) on the extreme  left of the meter window.

Edited March 28, 2020 by Tony Brooks

[bigcol]

okay

both glow pugs have been tested by
donig a contiuety test on both that passed that

 

A. Put a positive wire direct from 24v to the tip of the plug

B  putting the neutral direct from 24v to the body on the plug

both times nothing

so to assume I’m doing the rest wrong?

or b0th plugs are knackered 

 

I haven’t got a clue re testing resistance

 

thankyou Tony and Mike

[Alan de Enfield]

4 minutes ago, bigcol said:

A. Put a positive wire direct from 24v to the tip of the plug

When you say "tip" do you mean the end (tip) of the plug that screws INSIDE the engine, or the end (tip) of the plug that is outside the engine ?

[bigcol]

To the top pin, that holds the nut and wire on when in the machine

not the bottom that screws into the heater

Edited March 28, 2020 by bigcol

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, bigcol said:

okay

both glow pugs have been tested by
donig a contiuety test on both that passed that

 

A. Put a positive wire direct from 24v to the tip of the plug

B  putting the neutral direct from 24v to the body on the plug

both times nothing

so to assume I’m doing the rest wrong?

or b0th plugs are knackered 

 

I haven’t got a clue re testing resistance

 

thankyou Tony and Mike

I suspect the second option but would still like a resistance reading taken the same way to be sure.

 

However we have only seen the plug with most of the terminal end obscured. Be aware that the old 2V engine glow plugs has concentric connections on the end with places for both the positive and negative wires. If the Eber ones are like this then your test will not produce the correct result. How many wires fit onto the threaded end? If just one then your test should be valid. If two then its not. You need to connect the relevant parts of the terminal assembly to the battery for it to work.

 

[bigcol]

There are 2 wires that join together to a washer that gos over the threaded tip, with a small nut to tighten.

[MtB]

1 hour ago, bigcol said:

I haven’t got a clue re testing resistance

 

Ok one step at a time. Do you have a digital multimeter, with a known-good battery in it? 

 

[ditchcrawler]

It looks like a two wire connection https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Eberspacher_Heater_D5WS_Workshop_manual.pdf

1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

It looks like a two wire connection https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Eberspacher_Heater_D5WS_Workshop_manual.pdf

 

Edited March 28, 2020 by ditchcrawler

[bigcol]

1 hour ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Ok one step at a time. Do you have a digital multimeter, with a known-good battery in it? 

 

Yes I do, 

[bigcol]

this photo is the glow pin I have

 

[MtB]

6 minutes ago, bigcol said:

Yes I do, 

 

Ok, does it have knob in the centre, with a few ranges for testing resistance? Usually in "Ohms", a symbol like a horseshoe?

 

 

The lowest range will be labelled something like "0 - 200". Chose that.

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

19 minutes ago, bigcol said:

this photo is the glow pin I have

 

Except we still cant see the details of where the terminals fit.

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

It looks like a two wire connection https://www.butlertechnik.com/downloads/Eberspacher_Heater_D5WS_Workshop_manual.pdf

A rather poor video here and I wouldnt trust a chap who works as rough as that 

 

1. The diagram certainly shows a two wire top connection but it is not detailed enough to see if there is any insulation between the plug case and the lower eye terminal or if the lower terminal is simply pressed onto the plug body. If the former then Col's test will not work.

 

2. The plug in the video looks nothing like Col's plug, its a pin type similar to those used in engines.

[Alan de Enfield]

15 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

The plug in the video looks nothing like Col's plug, its a pin type similar to those used in engines

 

The video is showing a D5WS, Col has a D8LC

 

Does this help ?

This is a D8LC glow plug

 

 

 

 

 

 

Replacement glow plug £19.49

 

https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/brands/eberspacher/heater-unit-parts/eberspacher-d8lc/eberspacher-airtronic-d5d1lcd3lcd5lcd8lc-heater-24v-glow-plug-251831010100-e105

Edited March 28, 2020 by Alan de Enfield

[MtB]

15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

The video is showing a D5WS, Col has a D8LC

 

Does this help ?

This is a D8LC glow plug

 

 

 

 

 

 

Replacement glow plug £19.49

 

https://www.bowerspartsonline.co.uk/brands/eberspacher/heater-unit-parts/eberspacher-d8lc/eberspacher-airtronic-d5d1lcd3lcd5lcd8lc-heater-24v-glow-plug-251831010100-e105

 

 

I note there are 12v and 24v versions, so they are not the same plug. That answers a question still hanging from earlier in the thread.

 

I wonder if Col's has a 12v plug which burned out from over voltage, and the replacement plug he obtained was also 12v and suffered the same fate.

 

 

 

 

 

[bigcol]

The 24v unit although 2012 purchased, it was never used until under 2 years ago,since instalation 2 years ago it has behaved brilliantly and has never let us down,

till 2 days ago. the other spare unit is also 24v.

i haven’t been down the bilge room anymore to day, apart to doing tests as above, due to feeling unwell, but fingers crossed I can go down again ist thing tomorrow suss

out these jump wires and get the diagnostics working.

 

ps I was hopping the fault to be the glow plug, as that would be the easiest and the less expensive. Which is why it’s so annoying that a simple test, suggests that I’m doing this wrong!!!

 

thank you all for your support

 

 

col

 

[Tony Brooks]

Col's plug does not look burned out to me. If it were the coils would be distorted.

 

The images Alan posted suggest to me that there is some kind of washer between the plug body/thread and the hexagon. Although this looks a bit like copper it could be plastic or possibly mica. If so then the connections for ohmmeter readings and direct to 24 volt would be pos to the small thread and neg to the hexagon but again there is a I may be wrong because I cant see enough detail.

 

If you look at the stepped disk part it looks as if there may be a gap between it and the small thread. If so that gap may have an insinuating sleeve in it so as long as there is an insulating washer that fits around the top stem and between a small eye terminal and the larger eye terminal The test connections might be between the small thread and the stepped sleeve. Col, don't try to test at 24 V that way until we can ascertain exactly where the insulation is between the parts of the plug and if an insulating washer is involved. This may be a plastic or ceramic thing.

 

This image of a different glowplug but with possibly similar cable connections illustrates what I mean.

 

 

[bigcol]

thanks Tony  and you other guys

see the photos below they maybe a little help

the cable looks the same as this, I think it does, I’m sure it does nope I check it out tomorrow

but I will aim to go down engine room tomorrow

 

 

col

Edited March 28, 2020 by bigcol

[Tony Brooks]

As far as I can see pos to the thread and neg to the washer like part of the stepped piece.

 

I suspect I might disconnect the plug on the other end of the cable and power it from that plug, the polarity should not matter.

Edited March 28, 2020 by Tony Brooks