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Calling any Alde Boiler Gurus...


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Ok excellent, so now we know it is a twin coil calorifier.

 

The black rubber pipes almost certainly come from the engine cooling system, and a pair of the grey pipes will be from the gas boiler.

 

I'm inclined to suspect the larger diameter pair of grey pipes do the heating fro the boiler. Is that red-handled valve turned fully ON? If not, turn it fully ON. (Anti-clockwise, looking down on it.)

 

 

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i tried the red valve but it would only move an half inch. Didn't want force it incase I broke it. I presume it is open as we have hot water running when the engine is running. I am at my whits end with it. Think i will have to to get an engineer look at it or replace the system. 

Edited by Nick-Now
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19 minutes ago, Nick-Now said:

i tried the red valve but it would only move an half inch.

 

Its a gate valve, the small movement you describe is the "backlash". Apply more force to it! It might turn one way, or the other, depending on whether it is currently open of closed. They are very robust, you won't be able to break or damage it by turning or forcing it with your hand(s).  

 

It WILL turn one way or the other, and the direction it turns will be helpful to know. 

 

Don't feel too dejected, your plumber mate will prolly diagnose and fix it in ten minutes! It doesn't need ripping out and starting again. The cause just needs identifying.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Its a gate valve, the small movement you describe is the "backlash". Apply more force to it! It might turn one way, or the other, depending on whether it is currently open of closed. They are very robust, you won't be able to break or damage it by turning or forcing it with your hand(s).  

 

It WILL turn one way or the other, and the direction it turns will be helpful to know. 

I wouldn't be so sure of that! Years ago some friends asked me to take a look at the central heating in their newly bought first house. They could get hot water but the radiators remained cold whatever they did with the programmer, thermostat or radiator valves. The whole thing was a complete DIY bodged disaster, but even so I couldn't see why it wouldn't work. I pretty soon diagnosed that it must be some sort of blockage of the pipes leading to (or from) the radiators. Having drained the system I resorted to undoing various screwed connections and blowing through each section of pipe in turn to see if it was clear. I found a blocked section which had a gate valve, just like that pictured above, at one end. In earlier experimentation the valve had apparently opened and closed normally. But I found by sticking my finger in the end (it was positioned so I couldn't look in) the gate was closed whether the handle was in the closed or open position! Replaced the valve, refilled the system and all was well.

Post mortem examination showed that the valve shaft screwed in and out OK, but it was no longer attached to the gate, which remained wedged in the closed position, and there was no way of telling from outside.

If nothing else works it might be worth the OP draining down his system and removing this valve to check it is operating normally.

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2 minutes ago, David Mack said:

But I found by sticking my finger in the end (it was positioned so I couldn't look in) the gate was closed whether the handle was in the closed or open position! Replaced the valve, refilled the system and all was well.

 

Yes I've seen this too occasionally, but only with very old gate valves, and I still doubt you were the one to break it. Substantial force with pipe grips is necessary usually. 

 

The OP's gate valve is a prime candidate to be closed in my view. I bet his plumber mate just opens it with a good hard anti-clockwise turn with his hand. When closed, then need a good amount of force to shift them.

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Nick-Now said:

UPDATE: I sprayed the valve with lubricant and went back to it today. It was indeed shut!! Hopefully this will be the end to my issue, I'm testing it now. I will report back

 

Excellent news, well done for opening it, and yes I'm expecting further good news from you later!

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Air locked having been isolated for so long. 

 

Turn OFF all the other rads and try again....

 

 

Sound advice but I’d crack a joint open near the calorifier too...the Alde pump isn’t always the best at pushing air...sometimes you need to manually bleed it too. 

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3 hours ago, frangar said:

Sound advice but I’d crack a joint open near the calorifier too...the Alde pump isn’t always the best at pushing air...sometimes you need to manually bleed it too. 

 

Good point. I'm forgetting how pathetic the Alde pump is. I very much doubt it would shift any significant air lock.

 

 

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Just now, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Good point. I'm forgetting how pathetic the Alde pump is. I very much doubt it would shift any significant air lock.

 

 

On the plus side when working properly it’s very energy efficient! I love my 2928 Alde...planning on keeping it going as long as I can. 

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59 minutes ago, frangar said:

On the plus side when working properly it’s very energy efficient! I love my 2928 Alde...planning on keeping it going as long as I can. 

Me too, little heavy on gas but extremely reliable.

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15 minutes ago, Rickent said:

Me too, little heavy on gas but extremely reliable.

Yep...the cost of the gas is cancelled out by the lack of expensive parts like air motors or fussy voltage requirements etc. Just an bi annual service & the odd thermocouple etc. With the possible demise of cheaper diesel they are looking even better value. 

Edited by frangar
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well I ran out of gas, it was a full 13kg last week and I haven't been on the boat since last weeked.  I presume the Alde consumed a shed load of gas. it will be later in the week before I get the bottles replaced.

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5 minutes ago, Nick-Now said:

well I ran out of gas, it was a full 13kg last week and I haven't been on the boat since last weeked.  I presume the Alde consumed a shed load of gas. it will be later in the week before I get the bottles replaced.

A neighbour of ours ripped out their Alde as it was using 2 x 13kg cylinders (£60) per week in cold weather.

It was cheaper to plug into the land-line and have electric heating when in the marina and stoke up the SF stove when out cruising.

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8 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

A neighbour of ours ripped out their Alde as it was using 2 x 13kg cylinders (£60) per week in cold weather.

It was cheaper to plug into the land-line and have electric heating when in the marina and stoke up the SF stove when out cruising.

yes if thats going to be the case, looks like i'll be boiling the kettle for a standup bath on the woodburner

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