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2 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I thought the Wbasto was 12v. it certainly is not wired to the new invertor.

There is one 375 w inverter and it feeds a 240 volt socket for my tablet, phone, mifi.

The fridge is 12v Dometic circa 2004

The new fridge will be the same, just more efficient.

Yes i am sure we can tweak things with gadgets, , but not now, we need to get things working

There is only one alternator.

I have a Sterling split charge diode thing, it is still in it's box, I am not even sure if it is the right thing, no one seems interested in fitting it. I just had a idea they were essential kit.

 

 

No a VSR is the easiest split charge device to fit because it does not need the alternator main output and then the feed to both battery banks rewiring/altering. I just hope its a zero volt drop split charge diode. However with a suitable set of terminals, the correct cable and the correct terminal crimping tool its easy enough to fit ONCE YOU KNOW how the boat is wired. At present with a three battery bank boat but only one alternator it would not be possible to fit it properly if its only a two output unit. I suspect you already have some form of charge splitting so its not needed but without information or photos who knows for sure.

 

You don't seem to grasp the need to understand how many AMPS (not volts) each piece of equipment will draw from the batteries. Every Amp hour you take out will need to be put back in with half as many Amp hours again. well may be 20% to 30% more depending upon all sorts of things.

 

I am not trying to negative or insulting but I am trying to get you to grasp the fact that the more you know about your boat and how it works will make your life a lot easier.

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5 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That all seems like a plan that should work but there is nothing there about charge splitting/joining. If its a twin alternator engine then its just the solar charge that needs that unless you have a twin output solar charger but even then its questionable if the engine battery benefits from solar charging while out cruising.

 

A mains battery charger may have two outputs and if so all well and good but if not its simple enough to us a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) to combine/isolate both the  solar and mains charging as required.

 

How large is this inverter and what sort of loads and for how long are you going to run from it. If its a small 200 watt inverter then you plan to use just 450Ah of batteries shoudl be OK but with talk of fridge and Webasto I think you may be pushing your luck at times but monitoring the amps and volts would soon tell you.

For information: the LED that is reading 12.19m is nothing to do with the solar controller, but before we put the new solar and solar controller in it used to show 13 volts and more on a nice sunny day.

Since installing the new solr controller there is now a spare wire [twin DC red and black] of unknown function, it is "live", and I guess it is actually supposed to be wired to the LED display in the bow, or at least maybe it used to be.............. maybe it should be a "load" from the solar controller, I am grasping at straws

Edited by LadyG
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Just now, LadyG said:

For information: the LED that is reading 12.19m is nothing to do with the solar controller, but before we put the new solar and solar controller in it used to show 13 volts and more on a nice sunny day.

Since installing the new solr controller there is now a spare wire [twin DC red and black] of unknown function, it is "live", and I guess it is actually supposed to be wired to the LED display in the bow, or at least maybe it used to be.............. maybe it should be a "load" from the solar controller, I am grasping at straws

That's the trouble - you simply have no idea about very much of your boat.

 

How do you know that? If that is so then the solar is NOT charging whatever bank that LED is connected to. The solar controller controls the charging voltage. The charging voltage will/should appear at every point in the electrical system. The voltage the LED thing shows may be a mains battery charge voltage, the alternator charging voltage, the solar charging voltage or the battery voltage if nothing is providing any charge. (allowing for volt drop along cables).

 

13V at the front of the boat suggest whatever the LED is connected to is not receiving  an adequate charge bt remember we don't know what this LED thing is or what it looks like.

I can't say any more without inspecting & testing the boat.

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20 minutes ago, LadyG said:

... there is now a spare wire [twin DC red and black] of unknown function, it is "live", and I guess...

There is absolutely no point in guessing; either for you or for us.

52 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I fear that is the main problem, you seem to think it is easier to stay ignorant of the technical things...

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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I will need a 20 amp Victron inverter fitted.

Jo, you have no idea what you are talking about, you are confusing yourself and posting 'nonsense' which is meaningless to those trying to help you.

 

Suggest you stop posting in this thread and start another "can anyone recommend a NB electrician in my area".

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28 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

That's the trouble - you simply have no idea about very much of your boat.

 

How do you know that? If that is so then the solar is NOT charging whatever bank that LED is connected to. The solar controller controls the charging voltage. The charging voltage will/should appear at every point in the electrical system. The voltage the LED thing shows may be a mains battery charge voltage, the alternator charging voltage, the solar charging voltage or the battery voltage if nothing is providing any charge. (allowing for volt drop along cables).

 

13V at the front of the boat suggest whatever the LED is connected to is not receiving  an adequate charge bt remember we don't know what this LED thing is or what it looks like.

I can't say any more without inspecting & testing the boat.

I am definately not  connected to mains.

The old solar system was replaced with the new system, two days ago, and since then things have changed,

I don't know how I can be expected to understand the system when all these electricians with 20 to 40 years experience each,  don't know,  they tell me different things, but it might be that they have altered things. I am sure that the new electician  has definately changed the battery wiring in some way.

I have now put the battery isolators [elephant ears ALL to ON, and I now see the LED in the bow is starting to rise, this is not logical, and is not what it ws doing last week.

How can i possibly tell which batteries are charging just by looking. I can't get in to the batteries easily, and I put boots on the positives to sto them shorting , 

4 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Jo, you have no idea what you are talking about, you are confusing yourself and posting 'nonsense' which is meaningless to those trying to help you.

 

Suggest you stop posting in this thread and start another "can anyone recommend a NB electrician in my area".

yep i meant a charger, I thought I edited that.

 

Edited by LadyG
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6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Jo, you have no idea what you are talking about, you are confusing yourself and posting 'nonsense' which is meaningless to those trying to help you.

 

Suggest you stop posting in this thread and start another "can anyone recommend a NB electrician in my area".

You don't think I have asked locals, of course I have, most of them ran away.

I can tell you every boat electrician within a 20 mile radius!

 

I've been looking for ten months for someone to fit the new solar sytem, the last electrician suggested I sold  the kit and stayed with the existing one, but use the alternator to generate energy, this is what you are dealing with: presumbly he obviously was not able to fit the solar. He messed about, with things other people could do,  when I specifically said I wanted the electric sorted. 

This current electrician was personally recommended by the BSS man, again he wnted to start on the easy jobs, but i insisted that ws pointless, you don't gain system understanding doing the easy jobs.

Folks re asking me for nitty gritty details, I don't know. I know things are not as they were, but if is an intentional alteration r unintended, I do not know.

 I just asked about moving the bow batteries to the stern, and got a whole stream of queries which I can't answer and even if I could I'd be no further forward, 

 

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9 minutes ago, LadyG said:

 

 I just asked about moving the bow batteries to the stern, and got a whole stream of queries which I can't answer and even if I could I'd be no further forward, 

 

I share your pain, me and electrics don't work together very well but I suggest the reason people who do know are asking these questions is because they are trying to understand your system and help.

 

I know it's difficult and frustrating  but the more information you can give the more they can help

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19 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I am definately not  connected to mains.

The old solar system was replaced with the new system, two days ago, and since then things have changed,

I don't know how I can be expected to understand the system when all these electricians with 20 to 40 years experience each,  don't know,  they tell me different things, but it might be that they have altered things. I am sure that the new electician  has definately changed the battery wiring in some way.

I have now put the battery isolators [elephant ears ALL to ON, and I now see the LED in the bow is starting to rise, this is not logical, and is not what it ws doing last week.

How can i possibly tell which batteries are charging just by looking. I can't get in to the batteries easily, and I put boots on the positives to sto them shorting , 

yep i meant a charger, I thought I edited that.

 

 

1. You have two or three sources of charge -  alternator, solar, and possibly a mains charger. Any and all of them should be able to charge at least one bank and in your resent case two or three.  So being connected to the mains or not does not mean the batteries are not being charged. It just means they are not being charged by a mains charger.

 

In my view the solar should be charging the front and rear bank but it may well not be if its  a single output solar controller and there is no charge splitting in use.

 

If there is ANY charge source in use then some or all the the domestic system should show the solar charging voltage for another hour and  a  bit, the the sun will be going down.

 

2. As we keep telling you the trade electrician covers a multitude of disciplines and by no means all will have any idea about dealing with 12 or 24V DC circuits or even best practice in narrow boats. I very much doubt a deep sea electrician has much call to deal with ultra low voltage DC systems or the need for charge splitting and battery monitoring to any extent. House and industrial electricians will have even less idea. your dilemma is not helped by there being no extensive training scheme or qualification for inland electricians. It is on no surprise to me after best part of 55 years experience that you have had problems with electricians.

 

Some other members can probably tell you how much I taught them and explained in just a two day electrical course plus such after course email support they might need so its not an impossible task for you to learn about your boat. The notes are all on-line but it takes effort to study them.

 

3. if the sun is out and solar is charging the batteries connected to the LED then the voltage gradually rising is perfectly logical.

 

4. Until we can see your "elephants ears" I have no idea what they are but they are probably the battery bank isolators.

 

5. you do something to stop the charging like cover the solar panels or turn off the engine. Then leave a hour or so and put a voltmeter (20V DC)  between a bank positive and negative. Note the voltage. Uncover the solar or start the engine and quickly take another reading. there should be a noticeable increase in voltage. If not that bank is not being charged.

 

6. That 12V pair that is now disconnected you talked about. Unless the old controller was a twin output one I suspect (but don't know for sure) someone may have been using the solar load terminals to charge the other battery bank. Which one I have no idea.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

No a VSR is the easiest split charge device to fit because it does not need the alternator main output and then the feed to both battery banks rewiring/altering. I just hope its a zero volt drop split charge diode. However with a suitable set of terminals, the correct cable and the correct terminal crimping tool its easy enough to fit ONCE YOU KNOW how the boat is wired. At present with a three battery bank boat but only one alternator it would not be possible to fit it properly if its only a two output unit. I suspect you already have some form of charge splitting so its not needed but without information or photos who knows for sure.

 

You don't seem to grasp the need to understand how many AMPS (not volts) each piece of equipment will draw from the batteries. Every Amp hour you take out will need to be put back in with half as many Amp hours again. well may be 20% to 30% more depending upon all sorts of things.

 

I am not trying to negative or insulting but I am trying to get you to grasp the fact that the more you know about your boat and how it works will make your life a lot easier.

I do understand the amp thing, but I only have three appliances , for comms,, the tablet, the phone, the mifi, all tiny

the new fridge is maybe 5 amps but it wont run 24 hours at 5 amps [120amp hours], it probably wont run more than 10 hours a day, I'ts a compressor fridge, it the most efficient I could find that fitted in the space, and it is the same as the old one, so should be easy to chnge over. It is extremely difficult to get accurate information from anyone about the fridge they are selling, I swerve one make 'cos thet tested the thing at 18 C!, it is never below 22 in summer in summer.

Yes there is a water pump, and  a shower waste pump, these were all covered in th bimble power audit, and 

I did a power audit and I also checked with Bimble before I bought the kit. I'm confident that the 2x275watt panel ,, the 40 amp controller and should cope fine with the pumps, I am really using very little power, the fridge is usually off

I can assure you thhat in spite of your dubt, i know mre than most folks in this marina.

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26 minutes ago, LadyG said:

You don't think I have asked locals, of course I have, most of them ran away.

I can tell you every boat electrician within a 20 mile radius!

 

I've been looking for ten months for someone to fit the new solar sytem, the last electrician suggested I sold  the kit and stayed with the existing one, but use the alternator to generate energy, this is what you are dealing with: presumbly he obviously was not able to fit the solar. He messed about, with things other people could do,  when I specifically said I wanted the electric sorted. 

This current electrician was personally recommended by the BSS man, again he wnted to start on the easy jobs, but i insisted that ws pointless, you don't gain system understanding doing the easy jobs.

Folks re asking me for nitty gritty details, I don't know. I know things are not as they were, but if is an intentional alteration r unintended, I do not know.

 I just asked about moving the bow batteries to the stern, and got a whole stream of queries which I can't answer and even if I could I'd be no further forward, 

 

Simple answer for the third time:-

 

Yes move the bow batteries to the stern as long as they are not shorting and you can keep a close  eye on them and know what you are looking for. But be aware that doing so may make matters worse if the bow batteries are shorting or it may make little difference if they are badly sulphated.

 

However that does not mean that bank is being charged by the solar, alternator or mains charger so without test we are no further forward.

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33 minutes ago, LadyG said:

You don't think I have asked locals, of course I have, most of them ran away.

I can tell you every boat electrician within a 20 mile radius!

 

I've been looking for ten months for someone to fit the new solar sytem, the last electrician suggested I sold  the kit and stayed with the existing one, but use the alternator to generate energy, this is what you are dealing with: presumbly he obviously was not able to fit the solar. He messed about, with things other people could do,  when I specifically said I wanted the electric sorted. 

This current electrician was personally recommended by the BSS man, again he wnted to start on the easy jobs, but i insisted that ws pointless, you don't gain system understanding doing the easy jobs.

Folks re asking me for nitty gritty details, I don't know. I know things are not as they were, but if is an intentional alteration r unintended, I do not know.

 I just asked about moving the bow batteries to the stern, and got a whole stream of queries which I can't answer and even if I could I'd be no further forward, 

 

Maybe that's the problem, you are telling them how to do things. If I came to your boat and said I need to change that split charger and those isolators and you said to me no, I want the new solar panels fitting first I would walk away.

 

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7 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I do understand the amp thing, but I only have three appliances , for comms,, the tablet, the phone, the mifi, all tiny

the new fridge is maybe 5 amps but it wont run 24 hours at 5 amps [120amp hours], it probably wont run more than 10 hours a day, I'ts a compressor fridge, it the most efficient I could find that fitted in the space, and it is the same as the old one, so should be easy to chnge over. It is extremely difficult to get accurate information from anyone about the fridge they are selling, I swerve one make 'cos thet tested the thing at 18 C!, it is never below 22 in summer in summer.

Yes there is a water pump, and  a shower waste pump, these were all covered in th bimble power audit, and 

I did a power audit and I also checked with Bimble before I bought the kit. I'm confident that the 2x275watt panel ,, the 40 amp controller and should cope fine with the pumps, I am really using very little power, the fridge is usually off

I can assure you thhat in spite of your dubt, i know mre than most folks in this marina.

 

I don't doubt you do because you seem to have a science background. Most folks have little idea and what's more have little interest in learning. This is why dodgy electricians and mechanics can thrive on the inland waterways.

 

Well lets see the Bimble power audit, your battery capacity calcs, and the charging calcs for when there is insufficient solar. If don't understand amps how did you do the   power audit etc.

 

We know the fridge will demand between about 30 and 50 Ah per day. I have no idea about the Webasto consumption but as it uses an electric water pump electric air blower and fuel pump I would expect around 3 to 5 amps (other will put me right) so if its running for half the time its turned on in winter that's between 36 and 60Ah. So we are looking at around 80 Ah per day although some of that will be supplied by any charge source that's running.

 

I assume your tablet has  a camera on it and you connect to the forum with it. Set the camera to a lowish resolution, say 300dpi. take photo and save it. Open forum and start a post, open photo and copy it. Put cursor in the new post and do a paste. That should get it onto the forum.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

No a VSR is the easiest split charge device to fit because it does not need the alternator main output and then the feed to both battery banks rewiring/altering. I just hope its a zero volt drop split charge diode. However with a suitable set of terminals, the correct cable and the correct terminal crimping tool its easy enough to fit ONCE YOU KNOW how the boat is wired. At present with a three battery bank boat but only one alternator it would not be possible to fit it properly if its only a two output unit. I suspect you already have some form of charge splitting so its not needed but without information or photos who knows for sure.

 

You don't seem to grasp the need to understand how many AMPS (not volts) each piece of equipment will draw from the batteries. Every Amp hour you take out will need to be put back in with half as many Amp hours again. well may be 20% to 30% more depending upon all sorts of things.

 

I am not trying to negative or insulting but I am trying to get you to grasp the fact that the more you know about your boat and how it works will make your life a lot easier.

I do understand the amp thing, but I only have three appliances , for comms,, the tablet, the phone, the mifi, all tiny

the new fridge is maybe 5 amps but it wont run 24 hours at 5 amps [120amp hours], it probably wont run more than 10 hours a day, I'ts a compressor fridge, it the most efficient I could find that fitted in the space, and it is the same as the old one, so should be easy to chnge over. It is extremely difficult to get accurate information from anyone about the fridge they are selling, I swerved one make 'cos it was tested  at 18 C!, 

Yes there is a water pump, and  a shower waste pump, these were all covered in th bimble power audit, and 

I did a power audit and I also checked with Bimble before I bought the kit. I'm confident that the 2x275watt panel ,, the 40 amp controller should cope fine with the pumps, I am really using very little power, the fridge is usually off due to lack of solar [up to yesterday] and inefficiency in fridge.  I can assure you that in spite of your doubts, i know morethan most folks in this marina. The electricians have actually commented on it, but obviously I a asking on here about things I don't understand!

The batteries are very difficult to access, some of them i just cannot reach, they are under the well deck.

I have studied for a year, about boat electickery, but I just would not touch the electrics on here, I really have removed more than I have put on so far, well, I paid someone to remove them safely.  I try to avoid 240 volts appliancs, except the kettle, and then I need to be on shore power.

The existing charger is 1960  design, a battery cooker. Manual operation.

I would not touch any of the wiring on this boat, it's far too complex, as for telling the new what to do, I tried the other way and ended up eight months after buying the solar, with it still sitting on the roof.

Now we are cooking by gas, this guy not only had three steel boats, he also does fitting out, on his own and on other folks baots, he is not only genuine, he is listens to what I want, no problem, and he loves boating, and electricity, he is making up some bits and pieces for me so the finished job will be both accessible and look professional.

 

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1 hour ago, LadyG said:

I have now put the battery isolators [elephant ears ALL to ON, and I now see the LED in the bow is starting to rise, this is not logical, and is not what it ws doing last week.

It's perfectly logical if the solar charger is connected directly to the domestic bank at the back, and if the LED thing is looking at the bow batteries..

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I cannot believe all the Marine electricians in your area are that incompetent . Ours down here are friendly , well known and have been working on boats for decades , they have forgotten  more than I will ever know . They are more than happy to come and sit over a cup of tea and discuss my requirements before the job  no matter how challenging ,  and only put a nominal fee on for the time . They make their living from the cut so if they got a bad rep they very quickly would have no work . Why is it different in

wherever you are  . 

 

Why not try and sit down with last guy and talk through all the issues highlighted here and ask for a solution ? 

 

 

Edited by RufusR
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18 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I do understand the amp thing, but I only have three appliances , for comms,, the tablet, the phone, the mifi, all tiny

the new fridge is maybe 5 amps but it wont run 24 hours at 5 amps [120amp hours], it probably wont run more than 10 hours a day, I'ts a compressor fridge, it the most efficient I could find that fitted in the space, and it is the same as the old one, so should be easy to chnge over. It is extremely difficult to get accurate information from anyone about the fridge they are selling, I swerved one make 'cos it was tested  at 18 C!, 

Yes there is a water pump, and  a shower waste pump, these were all covered in th bimble power audit, and 

I did a power audit and I also checked with Bimble before I bought the kit. I'm confident that the 2x275watt panel ,, the 40 amp controller should cope fine with the pumps, I am really using very little power, the fridge is usually off due to lack of solar [up to yesterday] and inefficiency in fridge.  I can assure you that in spite of your doubts, i know morethan most folks in this marina. The electricians have actually commented on it, but obviously I a asking on here about things I don't understand!

The batteries are very difficult to access, some of them i just cannot reach, they are under the well deck.

I have studied for a year, about boat electickery, but I just would not touch the electrics on here, I really have removed more than I have put on so far, well, I paid someone to remove them safely.  I try to avoid 240 volts appliancs, except the kettle, and then I need to be on shore power.

The existing charger is 1960  design, a battery cooker. Manual operation.

I would not touch any of the wiring on this boat, it's far too complex, as for telling the new what to do, I tried the other way and ended up eight months after buying the solar, with it still sitting on the roof.

Now we are cooking by gas, this guy not only had three steel boats, he also does fitting out, on his own and on other folks baots, he is not only genuine, he is listens to what I want, no problem, and he loves boating, and electricity, he is making up some bits and pieces for me so the finished job will be both accessible and look professional.

 

Given the above If fitted correctly 550 watts of solar April to October should easily power you on most normal days so something else is wrong . As Tony said very hard to figure without knowing boat but my guess is all your batteries are goosed ,including new ones , For reasons mentioned. I think you need a rethink rewire and new batteries plus monitors etc . Solar sounds ok . 

 

Contact last decent engineer and ask for cup of tea consultation which you will pay for and start from there . 

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2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Maybe that's the problem, you are telling them how to do things. If I came to your boat and said I need to change that split charger and those isolators and you said to me no, I want the new solar panels fitting first I would walk away.

 

Good for you, but I can;t see any reason to start with things that work, when there are so many things that dont, it was agreed with the first eletrician that he would sort the batteries, I left him to decide how to go about it, agreed on agms, he wanted to select thm and buy them, two months l8ter he fitted them, he then never came back to me., I sent him money, he still never came back to work on my boat [he worked on other boats]. Did not answer his work phone.

The next electrician decided to clean the fuel, OK, but at his rates I could have bought the tools and done it myself, which I did for the oil change.he looked at the electrics and did a bit of battery testing of discarded batteries, all dead. Checked lights, looked at all the electrics, suggested I buy a generator, sell my solar kit, charge battery with alternator.

Next week he installed a Victron invertor in the bow, his choice  and never discussed abandoning the bow batteries. He spent three hours going out to buy a cable for a new fridge, told me it was oversized DC cable, but it was in fact undersized, so that was about £120 doing something useless, He wanted me to buy an absorption fridge, when in fact I could not use the existing 12 volt compressor fridge due to lack of solar, absorption fridges are not the best.

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4 hours ago, LadyG said:

I'm confident that the 2x275watt panel ,, the 40 amp controller

I have 2 x 245W panels and a 40A controller, (EpEver Tracer), from Bimble. One is flat and one at a very small angle to the sun. They have provided all the power I have used for the past 14 days - I use between 100Ah and 120Ah per day.

 

I'm in Manchester, the other side of the Peninnes, (I think), but I dont think you have had significantly less sun than we have. So your panels should have kept your batteries topped up if they are fitted correctly, and attached to the right bank.

 

I have already said what I would do in the immediate term.... if it involves some effort to get a voltage reading of each battery, it will be worth it.

 

You keep asking about the batteries at the front - I would disconnect them and see what doesn't work.

 

ETA: You are now saying that your current electrician, (the one with 3 boats), is a good guy, so he should be able to sort things out for you, shouldnt he?

Edited by Richard10002
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Eureka, this morning I turned the battery isolator switch at the bow to ON, this isolator was not previously functioning, but aparently it is now! Electrons flying in from all parts of the universe! 

Presumably the inverter which I used to charge tablet, phone, and mifi had been drawing amps from the bow batteries all yesterday, which accounts for the voltage dropping, little by little.

@Richard10002 thanks, got your last comment, the new solar was only installed on Tuesday afternoon, so yesterday [Thursday] was the first fully charged day, plus overnight usage], the Epever, is showing 13.1 volts .. I think this is voltage from panels [PV voltage?],  the controlller is outputing 4.1 amps, indicationg [to me] that the batteries are fairly healthy. I don't use anything like 110 amps even when on shorepower, the fridge is the worse, of course, it will run about 20 hours a day in hot weather if left on, so I  just try to keep it as a cool box. Now I have plenty of solar, I have put it on first thing [bright sun], and after an hour or so it can be turned off for a while.

The electrician tell me that the new solar controller feeds in to the Domestic, which is on the same positive busbar as the other two battery banks, so as long as all are ON, they will all get a steady trickle of magic electrons today.

One would assume that's how it should be ................... so we have progessed significantly.

Thank goodness, I thouht we were going backwards again!

Edited by LadyG
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19 minutes ago, LadyG said:

this morning I turned the battery isolator switch at the bow to ON

What I don’t understand (well, one of the many things I guess) is why you would ever have switched it to OFF in the first place.

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16 minutes ago, WotEver said:

What I don’t understand (well, one of the many things I guess) is why you would ever have switched it to OFF in the first place.

I needed the key thing to put all three battery isolators at the stern ON, and as that particular isolator had been disconnected by electrician number2, I just removed it, not realising that electrician number 3 [the current one] had re-connected it and wired it properly, that must have been while I was out shopping.

So each electrician told me a different story aboout the activity at the bow, but each was correct, as the wiring was changed by each of them, I had guessed that that could be the explanation.

Anyway, much relieved.

I've found the missing fifth isolator key, and they are all ON

Edited by LadyG
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1 minute ago, LadyG said:

I needed the key thing to put all three battery isolators at the stern ON, and as that particular isolator had been disconnected by electrician number2, I just removed it, not realising that electrician number 3 [the current one] had re-connected it and wired it properly, that must have been while I was out shopping.

and that is a perfect illustration as to why you would be well advised to take a great deal more interest in how your boat works and exactly what work has been done for you.

  • Greenie 1
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18 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

and that is a perfect illustration as to why you would be well advised to take a great deal more interest in how your boat works and exactly what work has been done for you.

I have taken interest, and stood over the guy most of the day, [I checked he was OK about that], but it is a lot to take in, I did suggest he looked in the bow area when he needed a 50 amp fuse for the solar controller, [only a single pole breaker came with the solar kit]. There indeed was a 62.5 amp fuse, in a little plastic holder where it had been put by electrician number2, but not actually connected to anything.

The electrician did very well with communicating and advising me, but there is a big stretch between what he knows about narrow boat electrics, [forty years],  and what I know [one year ].

He could not have known that I knew the isolator in the bow had been disconnected, so he just sorted it and made no comment.

Before I took the boat over I asked my brother who was local, to get the owner to help draw up a conceptual drawing, or indeed any drawing, I asked him to start at the alternator, he just refused, not much more I could do about that.

Edited by LadyG
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