Stuck Starter motor

[Alan Hill]

Hi

 

i have a faulty starter motor on my Russell Newbury engine. It has a Lucas 195 starter motor

 

i have removed the 3 bolts which hold it to the engine block. I cannot see any more bolts 

however I just cannot pull it away from the engine. I have tried Wd40 around the casing joint, tapping the motor with a hammer , but it won’t budge. 

I’m trying not to damage the motor as I understand a new one will be hard to find and expensive.

 

any suggestions please?

 

 

[Onewheeler]

The pictures only show three bolt holes. Without knowing anything about the engine, can you try turning it a few degrees by hand (in both directions) to see if it will free the motor?

[Alan Hill]

Ok, I will give that a try, thanks

[Man 'o Kent]

Most starter motors have a circular locating spigot that fits a mating hole in a steel plate that is itself mounted on the engine crankcase casting.

It is possible that the spigot and plate have rusted together. I cannot think of anything else on a starter motor that would need removing other than the three bolts.

 

Take a piece of wood and a lump hammer and give the case of the starter a good thump. The case of a starter motor is usually around 1/4" thick steel so unless you have the strength of Godzilla you 'aint going to do it any harm.

 

The trick is knowing how hard to hit things, one well directed thump is a lot better than a lot of sissy tapping but then I've been doing that sort of thing for 60+ years so I've kinda got the hang of it!

[Nut]

19 minutes ago, Man 'o Kent said:

Most starter motors have a circular locating spigot that fits a mating hole in a steel plate that is itself mounted on the engine crankcase casting.

It is possible that the spigot and plate have rusted together. I cannot think of anything else on a starter motor that would need removing other than the three bolts.

 

Take a piece of wood and a lump hammer and give the case of the starter a good thump. The case of a starter motor is usually around 1/4" thick steel so unless you have the strength of Godzilla you 'aint going to do it any harm.

 

The trick is knowing how hard to hit things, one well directed thump is a lot better than a lot of sissy tapping but then I've been doing that sort of thing for 60+ years so I've kinda got the hang of it!

this exactly a good sharp whack should be fine with no damage

[BEngo]

Many years ago, when oi was a boy chap, and probably about the time beer was 1/9d a pint a wise man said to me " Don't force it lad get a bigger hammer".

Similar advice is contain in the Kelvin instructions for removing the propellor.

[TheBiscuits]

19 minutes ago, BEngo said:

Many years ago, when oi was a boy chap, and probably about the time beer was 1/9d a pint a wise man said to me " Don't force it lad get a bigger hammer".

Similar advice is contain in the Kelvin instructions for removing the propellor.

It is always satisfying when simply fetching the bigger hammer makes the stuck part fall off on it's own ... maybe it realises that you really mean it now the sledgehammer has come out.

[Tony Brooks]

4 hours ago, Man 'o Kent said:

Most starter motors have a circular locating spigot that fits a mating hole in a steel plate that is itself mounted on the engine crankcase casting.

It is possible that the spigot and plate have rusted together. I cannot think of anything else on a starter motor that would need removing other than the three bolts.

 

Take a piece of wood and a lump hammer and give the case of the starter a good thump. The case of a starter motor is usually around 1/4" thick steel so unless you have the strength of Godzilla you 'aint going to do it any harm.

 

The trick is knowing how hard to hit things, one well directed thump is a lot better than a lot of sissy tapping but then I've been doing that sort of thing for 60+ years so I've kinda got the hang of it!

 

All absolutely true for the starter under discussion but a warning on modern starters. Many starters today (and most other smaller 12/24V DC electric motors) have permanent magnet fields and those magnets shatter easily. The block of wood will cushion the blow to a degree but I would not risk it on a modern starter I was not fully conversant with.

 

In the OPs case I think I would try to get a lever between the brush end of the starter body  and the block and try levering sideways a little.

[Slim]

1 hour ago, BEngo said:

Many years ago, when oi was a boy chap, and probably about the time beer was 1/9d a pint a wise man said to me " Don't force it lad get a bigger hammer".

Similar advice is contain in the Kelvin instructions for removing the propellor.

God, I must be older than you, I remember when it was 1/8d a pint, mind you it was n##s p##.

Apologies to OP.

[Alan Hill]

Many thanks all, Much appreciated

[Man 'o Kent]

All absolutely true for the starter under discussion but a warning on modern starters. Many starters today (and most other smaller 12/24V DC electric motors) have permanent magnet fields and those magnets shatter easily. The block of wood will cushion the blow to a degree but I would not risk it on a modern starter I was not fully conversant with.

 

Fair point!  Them sintered magnets are brittle blighters.

I bet they only have a thin drawn casing over them too but in my defence I did mention 1/4"? No wonder I don't do "modern", nuffink is made to last these days!