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Any recommended engineers North London?

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The hose connecting our sink tank to our engine blew off - we've reattached the hose and topped up with water and antifreeze but the engine still appears to be overheating. Need to work out why... we've had an engineer out who says we've blown our head gaskets. But another engineer has said we need to have someone take a more thorough look at it to make sure it is the head gaskets that need replacing as a pricey job.... 


Anyone know anyone good to recommend?? We're in Enfield! 




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Did you bleed the skin tank and manipulate any upward or downward bends in the hoses to release trapped air? If not its the first thing to do. If the cooling system design means the skin tank will not self bleed, and this applies to the majority, it should have some form of bleed screw, plug, or valve at the top.


Sorry can't help about engineers .

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Is the boat at all moveable ?


You will find it much, much easier and cheaper if you could get it 'outside' of the M25.


Few boaters are prepared to pay the costs of getting an engineer to their boat in London. By the time they have paid 'congestion charges' 'green charges', found somewhere to park (paid parking fees) dragged a  25-50kg tool box 'miles' along the towpath they have potentially lost many hours of paid employment - and that's before they have even started on your job.

Then find that they need parts and the whole process is repeated the next day.


London is not a friendly environment for trades people.

You can understand why they charge £50 per hour.


Hopefully it us something simple and you can self-fix with guidance from the mechanical experts on the forum.


Try Tony's suggestion, and if it doesn't work come back and see what other ideas are suggested.


Good luck.

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2 hours ago, Gabby&Jack said:

Hmm I'm not sure if our engineer did do that, and we couldn't seem to find a valve at the top. Will have another look at it, a bit useless when it comes to the engine! 



Take a photo of the skin tank area and post it on here, we may then be able to tell me if the tank needs a bleed point and if it has one where it is.

  • Greenie 1
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A further possibility. During a bad overheat the wax can leak out of the engine cooling thermostat and that makes it stay closed for longer so the engine runs hotter. This is just a possibility but once I were sure the skin tank and hoses were properly bled depending upon what was going on it the header tank that would be my next check. Also an overheat can damage temperature gauge senders so the engine temperature needs confirming by another means.

  • Greenie 1
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"we've had an engineer out who says we've blown our head gaskets."


There is a simple test for combustion products getting into the coolant, far less expensive to get the test done before letting someone start stripping the engine for a head gasket that might not need replacing.


By all means replace the thermostat, they rarely go wrong but as they are usually on the top of the engine and easy to get at with probably only two or three nuts to remove, but get a new gasket first. You could even take the thermostat out and run the engine to see if it then stays cool. You will do it no harm in the short term and if it still overheats then you can be pretty sure that it's not the thermostat but something else in the circuit.


Water pumps can shed blades and/or sieze, usually rather more difficult to get at on modern engines so get a big bucket and take off a convenient hose and spin the engine over, if the pump is working you should get some flow even at starter RPM.


Please note that the more information you can supply about the problem the better, in this case engine make, type, etc. and pictures too if at all possible.

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