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Shower Temperature regulation.


Brian422

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I've always had problem regulating Shower Temperature and think it's about time I stopped dodging shower when temperature changes.

I've reduced the hot water temperature from the calorifier but the water is still too hot.

Boat fitted Manually adjusted Mira Shower Mixer, Shurflo 2901-0213 pump and cold water Accumulator. 

Contemplating fitting thermostatic shower valve.

Option B would be to fit a separate hot water pump and accumulator but that would be more expensive and require major work.

Would be grateful for any advice from anyone who've fitted a thermostatic shower valve.

 

Regards and Thanks.

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8 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

No, I am a cheapskate and have a manual mixer, once set it works fine, its getting it set so I let the wife shower first 

I knew there was another reason for keeping one ... bit like a canary down a mine ?.

 

Edited by Brian422
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We have a thermostatic shower valve too. Original was what they describe as s bar shower valve but a bugger to grip the knobs with wet hands. So bought a new valve from Bathstore but was either full hot or full cold and nothing I did  would alter it. Did all Bathstore and manufacturers said to no avail.

Got money back and bought a Grohe shower valve. Perfect.

If problem is water too hot have you thought of a temperature limiting valve at calorifier.

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First thing I did was bin the Mira valve, it will break sooner or later, and fitted a Bristan mixer

From these people

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131644754976 

You need to check how far apart the pipes are.

After 7 years in a very hard water area it decided to fur up and a new cartridge was £85 so I replaced the whole unit.

We have a Mira in the en-suite in the house but as I don't use it (power shower in main bathroom) and C hasn't complained about it it hasn't yet been replaced.

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8 minutes ago, Loddon said:

First thing I did was bin the Mira valve, it will break sooner or later, and fitted a Bristan mixer

From these people

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131644754976 

You need to check how far apart the pipes are.

After 7 years in a very hard water area it decided to fur up and a new cartridge was £85 so I replaced the whole unit.

We have a Mira in the en-suite in the house but as I don't use it (power shower in main bathroom) and C hasn't complained about it it hasn't yet been replaced.

Always turn a mixer to the cold setting after use, that will keep it moving freely

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I originally set up my boat with two pumps, one for hot and one for cold, each with their own accumulator.

I had a thermostatic mixer for the shower, but found that it couldn't respond fast enough when one of the pumps cut in.

I had also fitted a linking pipe with a full flow lever valve between the H & C, so that if one pump failed, the other could pump both sides.  I now just use one pump with the link open and shower behaves perfectly.  The other pump is still there, so if the pump in use fails it only takes a moment to switch in the other pump.

I think the key to thermostatic showers is that both H & C must be at the same pressure, or at least, not fluctuating fast, i.e. just use one pump.

 

Shower is a bar-type thermostatic mixer from Screwfix, nothing special.  Still working fine after 12 years with average 40% occupancy.

Edited by dor
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3 hours ago, Brian422 said:

 

I've always had problem regulating Shower Temperature and think it's about time I stopped dodging shower when temperature changes.

I've reduced the hot water temperature from the calorifier but the water is still too hot.

Boat fitted Manually adjusted Mira Shower Mixer, Shurflo 2901-0213 pump and cold water Accumulator. 

Contemplating fitting thermostatic shower valve.

Option B would be to fit a separate hot water pump and accumulator but that would be more expensive and require major work.

Would be grateful for any advice from anyone who've fitted a thermostatic shower valve.

 

Regards and Thanks.

Only  1 pump needed.   This should be suitable for you  :-  https://www.screwfix.com/p/rize-exposed-thermostatic-mixer-shower-valve-fixed-chrome/491FV?kpid=491FV&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=CjwKCAiAy9jyBRA6EiwAeclQhAYuXr2aEgszz-p1w6ZzixPiNYsyxys9UV_PJhQutC2tq3k6BvIjARoCUHkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Or a slightly dearer one  :-  https://www.screwfix.com/p/cooke-lewis-mulga-exposed-thermostatic-mixer-shower-valve-fixed-chrome/117fv#product_additional_details_container

Edited by Flyboy
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3 hours ago, Brian422 said:

 

I've always had problem regulating Shower Temperature and think it's about time I stopped dodging shower when temperature changes.

I've reduced the hot water temperature from the calorifier but the water is still too hot.

 

Contemplating fitting thermostatic shower valve.

 

I can't see how you get any temperature variation on your shower mixer once you have got hot flowing, until you run out of hot water in the calorifier.  That's a fairly noticeable temp change when the cold water is at 4 or 5 degrees!

 

Is your water pump capable of delivering the flow rate your shower is trying to provide, or is it pulsing?

 

If the water's too hot at the shower,  is the current mixer valve letting any cold through at all?  Is it the same temperature at a sink or basin tap?

 

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15 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

If the water's too hot at the shower,  is the current mixer valve letting any cold through at all?  Is it the same temperature at a sink or basin tap?

I'm remembering something from the dim and distant past.

 

Doesn't connecting it up the 'wrong way' (Cold pipe to hot connection and vice-versa) give exactly that fault ?

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I fitted one of these...  https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-peg402-tmv-15mm/96288?tc=VA6&ds_kid=92700048793290397&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI76qIkPfv5wIVxbTtCh0gbwddEAQYAyABEgI5bPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

You can retain your existing shower.  Just set it to hot and the water will stay at 43 deg C (providing you have hot water).

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2 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Always turn a mixer to the cold setting after use, that will keep it moving freely

You have to turn it through cold to turn it off there is only one knob on mine.

It might well be the fact that it lay unused for 6 months that caused the failure :(

 

39 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I'm remembering something from the dim and distant past.

 

Doesn't connecting it up the 'wrong way' (Cold pipe to hot connection and vice-versa) give exactly that fault ?

Yes I believe it does on a thermostat one at least.

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15 hours ago, pearley said:

If problem is water too hot have you thought of a temperature limiting valve at calorifier.

Thanks Pearley.

There's a temperature regulator on the calorifier which regulates temperature but still can't achieve required level.

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9 minutes ago, Brian422 said:

Thanks Pearley.

There's a temperature regulator on the calorifier which regulates temperature but still can't achieve required level.

We had opposite problem when our calorifier was replaced. It came with a temperature limiter with maximum setting of 65, I think. Problem was that the hot water came 15 ft down one side, across the boat and back up the other side and so was a lot colder by the time it came out if the shower head.

So I removed it.

Should add that the wash basin is only 2ft from calorifier and water was far too hot for safety so fitted a valve on that not long after getting boat.

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45 minutes ago, Brian422 said:

Thanks Pearley.

There's a temperature regulator on the calorifier which regulates temperature but still can't achieve required level.

Like pearley I don't have a temperature regulator at the calorifier. It's a no brainer with the long pipe runs in boats so best to regulate the temperature at the outlets. I have a bar type shower regulator that's 12 years old and it still works perfectly.

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