eid Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 I have a solar contraption on the boat roof which needs to be removed. I expect the bolt holes go right through the steel. What is the best way to fill the holes left? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glynn Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 Put the bolt back ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 ask a neighbour with a poser boat if you can borrow some false rivets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Marshall Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 When I took the radio aeriel out I filled it with a bit of fibreglass, using a kit from Halfords. Twenty years later, it hasn't leaked yet. Once it's hardened, you can sand it down flat to the roof... though I admit I didn't bother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 For bolt holes any exterior grade filler should be fine, and once sanded down and repainted there should be nothing to show there had been holes. But if you have removed a chimney flue or mushroom vent you probably need the services of a welder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko264 Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 If you use fiber glass paste type fillers and rub it down flat to the roof in time it will fall out and leak if it was me I would use dome headed bolts with a good type if sealer under the head Graham 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 What IS this solar contraption that needs removing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frangar Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 Tap the hole....put a bolt in with some thread lock....grind it flush and repaint...you can always skim with some filler if needed 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 I use epoxy putty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 6 minutes ago, Iain_S said: I use epoxy putty. and how do you ensure it won't fall out one day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 32 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said: What IS this solar contraption that needs removing? Good question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain_S Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 16 minutes ago, Murflynn said: and how do you ensure it won't fall out one day? I can't. But I can think of a couple that have done over 15 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Marshall Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Iain_S said: I use epoxy putty. When my boat started sinking and we could see the hole in the baseplate, we shoved some marine epoxy into the hole, dropped a rubber pad on it and a weight on that. Plug's still there. When they shot blasted the hull before replating, they blew a hole in the side of the boat below the waterline, that had been patched with fibreglass. Must have been there over 30 years, because I certainly didn't do it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 1 hour ago, Arthur Marshall said: When my boat started sinking and we could see the hole in the baseplate, we shoved some marine epoxy into the hole, dropped a rubber pad on it and a weight on that. Plug's still there. When they shot blasted the hull before replating, they blew a hole in the side of the boat below the waterline, that had been patched with fibreglass. Must have been there over 30 years, because I certainly didn't do it! blimey - remind me not to go aboard your colander. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 On the Norfolk Broads once, one crew member's stupid action caused us to punch a foot-diameter hole in the bottom of our hired wooden sailing boat. We grabbed hold of him and shoved his backside into the hole; it was just about watertight enough that we managed to sail to the nearest boatyard (which took 20 minutes) where they hurriedly put straps under the boat and lifted it up. By the time we had finished lunch in the nearby pub they had nailed a sheet of plywood over the hole; it stayed in place and waterproof for the rest of our fortnight's holiday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Lowe Posted February 15, 2020 Report Share Posted February 15, 2020 You could use this stuff Milliput Epoxy Putty I've used it before its brilliant stuff sets hard you can actually machine it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eid Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) Thanks all, that's given me some ideas to think about. I was considering liquid metal but I notice no one has mentioned it? I think I'm leaning towards the domed bolt with some kind of sealant, although it would be nice to make it flat again. Its probably going to be under the new solar panels anyway though. 21 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said: What IS this solar contraption that needs removing? It's a mount for solar panels which allows each panel to be tilted at about 45* or otherwise lay flat on the roof slope. It was made by the last owner from a Homebase (or similar) trolley I believe. It does a great job but I need bigger panels. If anyone wants it and can collect it'll be going in the spring (probably along with the panels). Edited February 16, 2020 by eid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Lowe Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 Depending on how big the holes are you could you cladding fixings as they have a built in sealing washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 2 minutes ago, eid said: Thanks all, that's given me some ideas to think about. I was considering liquid metal but I notice no one has mentioned it? I think I'm leaning towards the domed bolt with some kind of sealant, although it would be nice to make it flat again. Its probably going to be under the new solar panels anyway though. It's a mount for solar panels which allows each panel to be tilted at about 45* or otherwise lay flat on the roof slope. It was made by the last owner from a Homebase (or similar) trolley I believe. It does a great job but I need bigger panels. If anyone wants it and can collect it'll be going in the spring (probably along with the panels). I'm sure someone will love that! Your could give it to them on condition they weld over the holes!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eid Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 3 minutes ago, buccaneer66 said: Depending on how big the holes are you could you cladding fixings as they have a built in sealing washer. That would certainly make things simple. They even come with colour matched caps! https://www.steelroofsheets.co.uk/categories/cover-caps/ 4 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said: I'm sure someone will love that! Your could give it to them on condition they weld over the holes!! Welding would be a nice solution actually but I was told never to do it while the boat is in water. Perhaps I could get it done at the next blacking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eid Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) 21 hours ago, frangar said: Tap the hole....put a bolt in with some thread lock....grind it flush and repaint...you can always skim with some filler if needed Somehow I missed this on first read. This sounds like a great solution. The holes may already be tapped anyway. Edited February 16, 2020 by eid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWM Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 9 minutes ago, eid said: Somehow I missed this on first read. This sounds like a great solution. The holes may already be tapped anyway. This method will work even better if a fine thread is tapped, you can also put the bolt halfway in and saw the excess off leaving less work for the grinder. A thread sealing compound such as nutlock may also be useful. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eid Posted February 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, BWM said: This method will work even better if a fine thread is tapped, you can also put the bolt halfway in and saw the excess off leaving less work for the grinder. A thread sealing compound such as nutlock may also be useful. Thanks I'll look into that. Is this the stuff? Edited February 16, 2020 by eid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulJ Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 32 minutes ago, eid said: Welding would be a nice solution actually but I was told never to do it while the boat is in water. Perhaps I could get it done at the next blacking. It may be a problem if you were to try doing this with a bolt that was underwater but it wont be an issue on the roof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted February 16, 2020 Report Share Posted February 16, 2020 19 minutes ago, BWM said: This method will work even better if a fine thread is tapped, you can also put the bolt halfway in and saw the excess off leaving less work for the grinder. A thread sealing compound such as nutlock may also be useful. Or if you have access, screw the bolt in from the inside until it is tight and grind off the projecting thread on the outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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