Scumbling

[David Mack]

I am looking to do some scumbling on Belfast. In the past I have used Ratcliffe's Oil Scumble over Ratcliffe's No.2 Chrome Buff undercoat, but neither of these products is now available. Nor is the Chrome Buff Macpherson's eggshell paint which was previously recommended by Decorating Direct as an alternative to the Ratcliffe's undercoat.

 

For scumble I was proposing to use Polyvine oil-based scumble pre-coloured in light oak. But what should I use for undercoat? I would rather stick with oil based paints as some of the scumbling will be exposed to the weather, but a quick google around the paint manufacturers's websites suggests that oil based undercoat is now only available in white, grey or black. But none in chrome buff, or colour mixed to order. So what do people use?

[WotEver]

Paging Mr @dave moore

[Richard T]

Craftmaster do a cream undercoat which I used to do some scumbling.

[BEngo]

Start with  some oil based white or cream. Add artists oil paint (which is a sort of thick paste of oil and  colour and comes in tubes) to taste.  Stir really really well.Either ochre or  burnt umber are probably suitable colourants, depending on what you want.

 

Make plenty, you will never match the colour again?

 

N

[Fender151]

What in the name of all that holy is scumble or ing, is this something else I need to add to my never ending ToDo list?  I feel another sleepless night coming on!!!

[Rob-M]

1 minute ago, Fender151 said:

What in the name of all that holy is scumble or ing, is this something else I need to add to my never ending ToDo list?  I feel another sleepless night coming on!!!

It is the wood grain effect that is often painted on traditional style boats. An example being our rear doors.

 

 

[Fender151]

Thank you Rob, nope, not on my ToDo list, but looks great, when it's done well.

 

 

[alan_fincher]

1 hour ago, Richard T said:

Craftmaster do a cream undercoat which I used to do some scumbling.

Yes,

That's the way I would be thinking.

If you buy an undercoat for one of the boat enamels, it will still be oil based, and certainly Craftmaster do a cream.

[Ray T]

20 minutes ago, Fender151 said:

What in the name of all that holy is scumble or ing, is this something else I need to add to my never ending ToDo list?  I feel another sleepless night coming on!!!

 

From one of John M Hill's books.

 

Edited February 10, 2020 by Ray T

[dave moore]

I use a deeper yellow undercoat than Ratcliffe’s Chrome Buff, usually Albany Amber U/c 10, oil based, from Brewers. Light oak scumble over it gives a honey coloured effect, as if the oil lamp is lit before it is. Craftmaster Clear varnish to follow for me.

[dave moore]

Edited February 10, 2020 by dave moore

[Fender151]

They really are works of art, art and me go together like a rocket and a snail!!!

I can and do appreciate it, thanks to  all for the enlightenment.

 

[WotEver]

48 minutes ago, dave moore said:

That’s tremendous work Dave

[pete harrison]

1 hour ago, dave moore said:

I wouldn't mind a piece of plank like this...………………………………….ummmmm……………………..hang on...…………………ummmmm……………looks familiar...…...ummmmmm

[monkeyhanger]

On 10/02/2020 at 17:00, Richard T said:

Craftmaster do a cream undercoat which I used to do some scumbling.

I used Craftmaster cream undercoat. It's not a million miles away from Chrome Buff in colour. Once it's grained you won't notice the difference.

 

[dave moore]

I might.......

[monkeyhanger]

On 12/02/2020 at 20:26, dave moore said:

I might.......

OK Dave, I know you would, but the general man in the street may not. Fabulous panel by the way.  Jack

[BWM]

My better half used this as a base, i wasn't at all sure about the colour but the end result was nice.

 Was mixed by dulux if i remember correctly. 

[Bee]

I have used a pale yellow emulsion before on interior stuff. seems to work OK . Practice on a bit of old ply and don't rock the rubber thingy too much or it looks awful. If you can't get a decent start and finish on the sunken panels of doors etc then maybe a 1/2" painted border of red or a painted colour is a good idea. Its the varnish that brings it to life so use a good one. Caution: I am not an expert (at all)

[Machpoint005]

My personal taste is that scumbling, even when done really well, still looks 'orrible.

 

If you want something that looks like wood, then have wood and protect it with varnish. If you want something that looks like wood but it's in a location where it needs protection from the elements, then wood probably is the wrong material, so use a better one.

 

Form follows function, but that's just my opinion.

[Bobbybass]

I use a cheap cream undercoat. I then use cheap Wilco...WATER BASED...coloured  varnish with a scumbling brush.  Being water based,,,I can easily get it exactly as I want and if not I can use a damp cloth to wipe it off. Once dry...I varnish with clear varnish.

 

Works for me.

Edited February 17, 2020 by Bobbybass

[RAP]

I use an oil based satin finish mixed close enough to chrome buff with light oak polyvine applied neat. Here are the results so far.

 

[frangar]

3 hours ago, Machpoint005 said:

My personal taste is that scumbling, even when done really well, still looks 'orrible.

 

If you want something that looks like wood, then have wood and protect it with varnish. If you want something that looks like wood but it's in a location where it needs protection from the elements, then wood probably is the wrong material, so use a better one.

 

Form follows function, but that's just my opinion.

I think you’ve missed the historical use of scumbling.....I love a scumbled back cabin....and my exterior scumble...

[Higgs]

Be careful of the underlying paint brushstrokes. If you scumble across the brushstrokes and not with the brushstrokes, you can end up with something reminiscent of bamboo effect. 

 

 

[dave moore]

Having read previous posts, I’d like to add a bit of background. Ratcliffe’s, the major scumble manufacturer, originally made only oil based scumbles intended for use on similar undercoats. They were taken over by Tor coatings, still producing oil based stuff with the Ratcliffe badge, until a clash with the Volatile Organic Compound regs, some time in the late 90s I think, led to the production of a water based product, still available today. Some painters swore by it, others at it. Personally, I’ve never tried it, but as others have said, it should sit well on water based undercoats.

These days I buy clear scumble glaze from Polyvine and tint it myself with light oak stain, though they also produce a ready mixed light oak. All oil based and suiting this particular dinosaur. As said previously, a decent varnish is essential. My preference is for Craftmaster, though some yards have successfully used yacht varnishes by International or Johnson’s to varnish my work. Blackfriars is fine too.

I heartily endorse earlier advice about the cautious use of a knotting rubber. It’s easy to get excited by the effect produced and I understand the temptation to use it randomly. The late Chris Lloyd, writing in Waterways World years ago, described the over use as “ Like rifle targets holding hands”, a most apt description to me. Would any decent joiner use timber riddled with knots? I doubt it.....