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Galilee

Attaching rope fenders

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I've bought some big old rope fenders for the bow and stern of our new boat and they've just arrived from Midland Chandlers. Each fender has a number of chains attached, but none of the chains have an opening link on the end. What could I use that would be strong enough to attach the chains to the eyelets in the hull?

 

Thanks, Stuart.

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4 minutes ago, Galilee said:

I've bought some big old rope fenders for the bow and stern of our new boat and they've just arrived from Midland Chandlers. Each fender has a number of chains attached, but none of the chains have an opening link on the end. What could I use that would be strong enough to attach the chains to the eyelets in the hull?

 

Thanks, Stuart.

Ideally you need to cut thru one side of the chains so that they become a weak link.

If you then get the front 'button' caught in the lock-gate then the chain will snap open and the fender fall away, rather than sinking the boat.

 

 

 

Shackles available from any Chandlery or ebay.

 

 

 

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Yep, understood. I can do that before I take the fenders to the boat, to save me taking bolt cutters, thanks.

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I've always found that a small brass shackle breaks nicely when needed. Might be easier than cutting through a link.

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11 minutes ago, MartinC said:

I use these, as a sacrificial link,386443702_Screenshot2020-01-27at18_58_15.png.ba1248eaba918cf6bf02ded5df5bf8bf.png leaving the screw part not fully tightened

If you use a genuine Chinese one you could fully tighten it... ;)

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Very good point the weak link, often omitted. When I was attaching the fenders to my first boat Bob Allen (Les Allen boats) told me off for chaining the two buttons on, said I should use rope 1/4" ish.

Adding a weak link's a good idea though.

 

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9 minutes ago, jonesthenuke said:

Rope shackles are surprisingly strong, do not rely on them as a weak link.

We used to use 6mm rope as a weak link when launching Gliders. The rope was tested / calibrated and gave a breaking strain of 1000lbs, far to strong for a weak link on your button.

 

I wouldn't recommend those 8mm 'soft-shackles' that are linked to, they have a quoted breaking strain of 1.4 tonnes

Edited by Alan de Enfield

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24 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

We used to use 6mm rope as a weak link when launching Gliders. The rope was tested / calibrated and gave a breaking strain of 1000lbs, far to strong for a weak link on your button.

 

I wouldn't recommend those 8mm 'soft-shackles' that are linked to, they have a quoted breaking strain of 1.4 tonnes

I use those soft shackles to attach my centre line and they have taken quite a lot of abuse stopping the boat and not had any break.

 

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Deleted as point already made above.

Edited by Iain_S
Deletion

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16 hours ago, Steve42 said:

Very good point the weak link, often omitted. When I was attaching the fenders to my first boat Bob Allen (Les Allen boats) told me off for chaining the two buttons on, said I should use rope 1/4" ish.

Adding a weak link's a good idea though.

 

Both my bow and stern fenders are on cord not chain. But I do need to change the bright blue for something nicer

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Mine are on with the things @MartinC mentions above - felt very proud of self for finding suitable option in very urban shopping centre!

 

Once boat is painted this summer I do see the point of the rope ones (for non-metal:metal, I'd keep my stretchable ones too)... Daft Q: (how) do you open them to get them through loop on boat/in chain @Ray T? They look rather smart.

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2 minutes ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

Mine are on with the things @MartinC mentions above - felt very proud of self for finding suitable option in very urban shopping centre!

 

Once boat is painted this summer I do see the point of the rope ones (for non-metal:metal, I'd keep my stretchable ones too)... Daft Q: (how) do you open them to get them through loop on boat/in chain @Ray T? They look rather smart.

 

It's to be hoped you never get caught up in a gate-protuberance when going up in a lock.

 

So many examples and near sinkings (if the crew hadn't been awake and seen the water going over the bow)

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6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

It's to be hoped you never get caught up in a gate-protuberance when going up in a lock.

 

So many examples and near sinkings (if the crew hadn't been awake and seen the water going over the bow)

In general, yes.

 

And having the weak metal link I already mentioned I have and intend to keep attached to a soft rope shackle is going to be very nearly as safe as having it attached directly to the boat.

 

Now, any clues as to how the rope ones work please?

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10 minutes ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

Now, any clues as to how the rope ones work please?

The ones I have seen used by 'yachties' open via the 'ball' passing thru the eye.

 

In principle, similar to the elastic ones used on Gazebo shelters etc

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I think these type of things you use 'doubled' through themselves whereas the ones above seem to be single loops (once on). So, literally just wriggle the ball part out of the eye thread through boat/chain and wriggle ball back through eye?

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1 hour ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

Mine are on with the things @MartinC mentions above - felt very proud of self for finding suitable option in very urban shopping centre!

 

Once boat is painted this summer I do see the point of the rope ones (for non-metal:metal, I'd keep my stretchable ones too)... Daft Q: (how) do you open them to get them through loop on boat/in chain @Ray T? They look rather smart.

The small loop slides open to allow the knotted end to go through.

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1 hour ago, Ray T said:

This video shows how to make soft shackles but you get the idea of how they work.

 

 

 

Last time I bought some at Tradline Karen made them up whilst I waited so I got to see her making them.

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