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Boat refit


Nemysys

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So far, all going well. Learned a lot going along. 
 

Question about Electric sockets. Looking at CBE / C-Line sockets for both 240v and 12v although separated.

My dad is an electric; engineer and knows how to wire things up, this is not the issue.

 

as an example, what do I need to buy for a double 13a 240v socket, as in backboxs, faceplates, surrounds etc.

and again the same for a 12v outlet, maybe triple, usb, 5a socket and cigarette lighter socket.

 

thanks

 

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One thing you must have is multi-core cable for the 240 volt, do not use single core domestic cable. Other than that, you can use any suitable boxes and sockets.

 

Someone with more knowledge than me will come with a more detailed answer though.

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13 minutes ago, Nemysys said:

My dad is an electric; engineer and knows how to wire things up, this is not the issue.

 

1 minute ago, Kendorr said:

One thing you must have is multi-core cable for the 240 volt, do not use single core domestic cable. Other than that, you can use any suitable boxes and sockets.

 

Someone with more knowledge than me will come with a more detailed answer though.

 

AND, do not use the flat 'twin & earth' (normally colour Grey) domestic cable.

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Dont go for deep back boxes as this will limit the depth of insulation behind. 

Most boats dont have faceplates, surrounds etc as the sockets sit in wood(ply/solid/MDF etc) therefore are just set in the gunnel inner side.(usually).

Edited by matty40s
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To get them all to match,  was looking at CBE / C-Line sockets for both 240v and 12v. Went to a caravan / motor home shop and was a little confused what was needed to make a complete unit.

 

 

 

AF0B0ED3-EB9B-421D-B032-BDE4B1E7AD9A.jpeg

Edited by Nemysys
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1 hour ago, Nemysys said:

To get them all to match,  was looking at CBE / C-Line sockets for both 240v and 12v. Went to a caravan / motor home shop and was a little confused what was needed to make a complete unit.

Yes, you would be. It’s not at all obvious at first glance. 
 

Each socket (or double socket, or USB socket, or switch or whatever) requires the socket, matching frame support, and matching faceplate. This outfit sell them as kits but you may be able to buy them separately elsewhere for less...


Socket complete with frame support and fascia:

https://www.aandlleisure.co.uk/c-line-single-1-gang-13a-socket-surround--back-box-267-p.asp

 

Double socket outlet complete:

https://www.aandlleisure.co.uk/c-line-double-2---gang-13a-socket-faceplate--back-box-204-p.asp
 

This company supplies all the separates such as...

Back box:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/electrical/5634-c-lineblackcircularbackboxforcbec-linesocketsswitches.html
 

Frame support:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/caravan-cbe-electrical-sockets/5633-caravan-camper-cbe-triple-frame-support.html

 

Fascia:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/caravan-cbe-electrical-sockets/5466-cbesingledecorframegraphite.html
 

etc. 
 

Note that back boxes are not required in order to fit a flush mounted cbe socket, but are advisable if the rear of the socket is accessible. 
 

Edited by WotEver
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57 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Yes, you would be. It’s not at all obvious at first glance. 
 

Each socket (or double socket, or USB socket, or switch or whatever) requires the socket, matching frame support, and matching faceplate. This outfit sell them as kits but you may be able to buy them separately elsewhere for less...


Socket complete with frame support and fascia:

https://www.aandlleisure.co.uk/c-line-single-1-gang-13a-socket-surround--back-box-267-p.asp

 

Double socket outlet complete:

https://www.aandlleisure.co.uk/c-line-double-2---gang-13a-socket-faceplate--back-box-204-p.asp
 

This company supplies all the separates such as...

Back box:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/electrical/5634-c-lineblackcircularbackboxforcbec-linesocketsswitches.html
 

Frame support:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/caravan-cbe-electrical-sockets/5633-caravan-camper-cbe-triple-frame-support.html

 

Fascia:

https://www.caravanstuff4u.co.uk/caravan-cbe-electrical-sockets/5466-cbesingledecorframegraphite.html
 

etc. 
 

Note that back boxes are not required in order to fit a flush mounted cbe socket, but are advisable if the rear of the socket is accessible. 
 

Not been to all the links, but thank you I will do

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When deciding DC cable sizes (cross sectional area), calculate the volt drop to be 3% or less by working out the total cable length from batteries to socket and back.

 

This is even more important with large loads, such as DC fridges, battery chargers and inverters. Dont rely on cable current ratings alone.

 

https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-wire-sizing-tool-low-voltage-drop-calculator

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Thanks to all.

 

the C-line / CBE dockets... I understand the parts you see and the wiring, but what about the back boxes? I’m using a household domestic idea as a scenario. 
is the back box square or round?

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10 hours ago, Nemysys said:

Thanks to all.

 

the C-line / CBE dockets... I understand the parts you see and the wiring, but what about the back boxes? I’m using a household domestic idea as a scenario. 
is the back box square or round?

Why do you want a back box? 

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1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Why do you want a back box? 

That was part of my initial question.  What parts were needed, if no back box is required then happy days. I just assumed for both 12v and 240v some rear protection was required

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1 hour ago, RonnieF1967 said:

Hi

We are in the process of fitting additional 12v sockets and came across this seller on eBay

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/empral_uk/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

 

Good luck

Thank you, ideal. Have found everything I need and understand the safety boxes now for the 240v

 

will be placing an order soon

 

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On the matter of socket you've had any number of replies so I won't add. Regarding the fitout in general I see you have a couple of houdini hatches. When you line them out make sure that whatever you make can be dropped out without having to disturb the ceiling lining itself. I did this more by accident than design and it was one of my better moves.

 

 

Frank

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4 hours ago, RonnieF1967 said:

Hi

We are in the process of fitting additional 12v sockets and came across this seller on eBay

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/empral_uk/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

 

Good luck

Know someone who used their stuff when he built a camper van and said it was very good quality, and reasonably priced.

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3 hours ago, Slim said:

On the matter of socket you've had any number of replies so I won't add. Regarding the fitout in general I see you have a couple of houdini hatches. When you line them out make sure that whatever you make can be dropped out without having to disturb the ceiling lining itself. I did this more by accident than design and it was one of my better moves.

 

 

Frank

houdini hatches? Are you referring to the windows? Sorry I couldn’t rotate the photo. If my boat was that way, I’d have serious concerns. ?

 

  • Haha 1
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4 hours ago, Nemysys said:

houdini hatches? Are you referring to the windows? Sorry I couldn’t rotate the photo. If my boat was that way, I’d have serious concerns. ?

 

So would I? Only glanced at photo and assumed something at the top is the top?

 

As someone who fitted out a shell from scratch some 24 years ago I can tell you that when you complete it you will feel very satisfied and continue to feel so.

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1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

I wouldn't instal a 240 volt socket without mounting it in some sort of back box. I used these dry lining boxes https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2g-35mm-dry-lining-box/36960#_=p

Those are essential in order to fit a ‘normal’ 13A socket outlet. They wouldn’t work with the CBE Sockets that OP is using.
 

Circular ‘rubberish’ back covers are available for OP’s Sockets but there’s no point in using one if the rear of the socket is inaccessible. In fact, I’m pretty sure you couldn’t fit one of them if the rear is inaccessible as they screw mount from behind. 

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3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I wouldn't instal a 240 volt socket without mounting it in some sort of back box. I used these dry lining boxes https://www.screwfix.com/p/appleby-2g-35mm-dry-lining-box/36960#_=p

That's fine if you're mounting the socket flush with the wall as in a house. On a boat surely a surface box would be more appropriate visually?

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21 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Those are essential in order to fit a ‘normal’ 13A socket outlet. They wouldn’t work with the CBE Sockets that OP is using.
 

Circular ‘rubberish’ back covers are available for OP’s Sockets but there’s no point in using one if the rear of the socket is inaccessible. In fact, I’m pretty sure you couldn’t fit one of them if the rear is inaccessible as they screw mount from behind. 

Thanks for that WotEver I am not conversant with those sockets but have seen many cases of just a hole cut in the cladding and the connections dodging about in the insulation

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