Varnish to use...

[robtheplod]

Following on from my towel rail conundrum, I have a few edges of the sink unit that could do with being re-varnished. Are there recommended/specific types which work best on boats or am I over egging this a bit?  Anxious not to put something on that stands out colour wise?

 

thanks!!

 

 

[Boater Sam]

Use Ronseal polyurethane unless that to has gone water based junk.

The best have the highest VOC rating and stink of solvent.

If it says wash the brush in detergent and water, its hopeless. 

Out here in the burning sun and uncontrolled world they use some stuff that stinks the Barangay out for a couple of days, makes you cough and your eyes water. But it lasts brilliantly. Definitely would never be allowed in Europe.

[mrsmelly]

9 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Use Ronseal polyurethane unless that to has gone water based junk.

The best have the highest VOC rating and stink of solvent.

If it says wash the brush in detergent and water, its hopeless. 

Out here in the burning sun and uncontrolled world they use some stuff that stinks the Barangay out for a couple of days, makes you cough and your eyes water. But it lasts brilliantly. Definitely would never be allowed in Europe.

Bang on the nail. 

[dave moore]

If you want a gloss finish, I’d try Craftmaster Clear. It’s my preferred choice over scumble and decorative work.

[WotEver]

I’d use LeTonkenoise. 

[David Schweizer]

I would recommend Blackfriars Polyeurethane Clear Satin Varnish, which is still solvent based and performs well.  The problem with Ronseal is that they make several types of wood varnish, most of them are water based and you may struggle to find any which is solvent based in DIY outlets. Blackfriars is normally availabkle at Traditional Hardware Ironmonger, but not normally found in DIY barns.

 

Your sink unit is almost identical to the one I installed in Helvetia, and it definitely requires some re furbishment. The timber edging looks like Mahogany and should respond to sanding and re-varnishing. To get a uniform colour, carefully sand all the existing varnish off back to the timber, using progressively finer grades of sand paper. Apply at least three coats of the varnish leaving a day and lightly sanding between each coat, the result shopuld be a warm reddish brown finish :-

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 26, 2020 by David Schweizer

[robtheplod]

Thanks everyone for the reply. I've already replaced taps and tiled and the sink looks as below so will be good to finish off the wood!

 

 

[mark99]

5 hours ago, dave moore said:

If you want a gloss finish, I’d try Craftmaster Clear. It’s my preferred choice over scumble and decorative work.

 

I agree with Dave. Very good Alkyd based <old skool> non yellowing product. I painted by woodburner stove handle red colour and Craftmaster varnished over the top. Then found out the handle gets way too hot to touch without leather gauntlets.... and the varnish is still perfect after daily huge heat cycles.

 

But as Dave says - it is very glossy.

Edited January 26, 2020 by mark99

[bizzard]

15 minutes ago, mark99 said:

 

I agree with Dave. Very good Alkyd based <old skool> non yellowing product. I painted by woodburner stove handle red colour and Craftmaster varnished over the top. Then found out the handle gets way too hot to touch without laether gauntlets.... and the varnish is still perfect after daily huge heat cycles.

 

But as Dave says - it is very glossy.

You need to make it a cool handle. Smear a little epoxy glue over the handle and then bind it tightly all the way along with ordinary white string, when glue has cured it can then be painted if you want to.

[rusty69]

5 minutes ago, bizzard said:

You need to make it a cool handle. Smear a little epoxy glue over the handle and then bind it tightly all the way along with ordinary white string, when glue has cured it can then be painted if you want to.

That's how our frying pan handle is done, but without the glue.

[bizzard]

1 minute ago, rusty69 said:

That's how our frying pan handle is done, but without the glue.

Some handles are funny shapes or tapered, those need the glue to hold the string on.

Old Paddy misstook a pint of varnish for a pint of Guiness, He had a horrible death but a lovely finish.

[mark99]

[bizzard]

1 minute ago, mark99 said:

 

That'll string lovely but I'd use the glue.

[rusty69]

4 minutes ago, bizzard said:

Some handles are funny shapes or tapered, those need the glue to hold the string on.

A good old fashioned whipping:

 

 

[bizzard]

3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

A good old fashioned whipping:

 

 

Is that George Formby?

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, bizzard said:

Is that George Formby?

George Foreman maybe

[bizzard]

Just now, rusty69 said:

George Foreman maybe

ha

He'd have a job doing the hot handle string fix on that.

[cuthound]

23 hours ago, WotEver said:

I’d use LeTonkenoise. 

 

Seconded. Internally a couple of coats lasts forever.

 

However if using it outside, I would put 6 coats on and lightly rub down and apply another coat every 2 years.

[David Schweizer]

On 26/01/2020 at 13:23, dave moore said:

If you want a gloss finish, I’d try Craftmaster Clear. It’s my preferred choice over scumble and decorative work.

On 26/01/2020 at 13:26, WotEver said:

I’d use LeTonkenoise. 

Both Craftmaster Clear and LeTonkenoise are excellent products but are both only available in a high gloss finish. They are also only sold in fairly large tins and are very expensive, especially if you only want to varnish a small area. If you want a satin or matt finish it would probably be preferable to use an interior polyeurethane varnish like Blackfriars which is available in much smaller (and cheaper) tins.

 

 

 

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, cuthound said:

Internally a couple of coats lasts forever.

 

However if using it outside, I would put 6 coats on and lightly rub down and apply another coat every 2 years.

Yep, that has been my experience. It doesn’t flake, chip, or peel, unlike polyurethanes. 

[tree monkey]

20 hours ago, mark99 said:

 

Impressive stove, is it on of those super efficient types

[rusty69]

16 minutes ago, tree monkey said:

Impressive stove, is it on of those super efficient types

Can't be that good.The fan ain't going round!

[David Schweizer]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Yep, that has been my experience. It doesn’t flake, chip, or peel, unlike polyurethanes. 

Was that on external woodwork or internal ?  Polyurethane varnish is only suitable for internal work, as outdoors, UV light causes it to degrade.

[WotEver]

7 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

Was that on external woodwork or internal ?  Polyurethane varnish is only suitable for internal work, as outdoors, UV light causes it to degrade.

Yup, external. I’ve tried many (not tried Craftmaster) and nothing lasted despite meticulous care until I tried LeTonk. That doesn’t even much care about the prep - I varnished some garden furniture a couple of years ago after minimal prep and it still looks as good today as when I applied it. 

[dave moore]

Years ago I was discussing varnishes with a customer who had turned to canal boating after years of lumpy water stuff.

” Dave “ he said, after a long conversation “ the best varnish is the one you haven’t tried yet!”  ?

Craftmaster, by the way, is available in 500ml tins, should anyone care to give it a whirl.