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How often to change skin tank coolant and fan belts


Timx

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Hi, this year we will probably do a bit of river cruising, so will need to check systems, I have problems with gauges, the temp gauges in summe seems to jump about, a few taps on the glass and it normally goes back to what you would expect it to be. That unfortunately is combined with the alarm for not charging is intermittent so I have t keep an eye on it. 

The fan belt inner broke a couple of years ago after I had been pushing up the Severn, but broke next day after turning off, had to get rcr out and it took him over an hour to change it, probably first time it had been changed , screws were that tight, also fan wheel has to come off to change inner belt on isuzi 42.

Boat is ten years old, and previous owner mentioned fan belt breaking on him once, but I presume that must of been outer belt. If this happened out cruising on a river, it's not gonna be a quick fix with the hot engine thrown into the mix. Also I have never changed the coolant on skin tank and temp does seem to get quite high when pushing against flow for an hour on rivers.

So needs some maintenance, how often do people change their fan belts and skin tank coolant.

Any advice greatfully recieved. I am not good at diy, but can do basics like oil and filter changes.thats about my limit though.

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2 minutes ago, Timx said:

If this happened out cruising on a river, it's not gonna be a quick fix with the hot engine thrown into the mix

When you take the front pulley off to change the belt put a second spare one behind the pulley and cable tie it into place out of the way of any moving parts. If you ever need to change it in a hurry in the future then it’s already there just waiting to be threaded into place and tensioned. 

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You have 2 basic situations to address.

1. Fan belts and coolant have a life span and should be covered in general maintenance, along with cooling hoses and associated equipment. Coolant has a life, and fan belts and hoses needregular inspection, along with suitable spares being carried.

2. Is the capacity of your skin tank capable of handling your 'push up against the current' on rivers.

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Measure your skin tank for size. The general rule of thumb is 1 square foot/5hp of engine power.

 

The coolant should be drained from the engine and skin tank. You'll have a drain plug somewhere on your engine and if there's no drain plug on the tank you can pull the bottom hose off. It can be a messy job and you'll probably end up with coolant all over the floor so a wet vac and plenty of nappies to clean up are useful. Just leave the nappies on the floor for a day or two before pulling them out. You can use the wet vac to suck coolant out of the engine and skin tank too but make sure you take the coolant pressure cap off so you're not creating a vacuum in there.

Edited by blackrose
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9 hours ago, Timx said:

I have problems with gauges, the temp gauges in summe seems to jump about, a few taps on the glass and it normally goes back to what you would expect it to be. That unfortunately is combined with the alarm for not charging is intermittent so I have t keep an eye on it. 

The temperature gauge jumping about could well be a dodgy electrical connection. Either at the engine sensor, an intermediate wiring loom plug and socket, or at the gauge. Tapping the glass having an effect suggests at the gauge. Any, or all of the 12V switched power, ground, or signal wires.

The not charging alarm could be related to the fan belt. If the belt is slipping, either from not being tight enough, or a V belt being worn out and running in the bottoms of the pulley will give this. The alternator pulley is slipping on the belt. If this belt is also turning the engine water pump, then again, the pump pulley may be slipping and could lead to the temperature spikes, but doesn't fit in with glass tapping apparently correcting it.

 

Coolant lasts between three and five years, depending on type. Not changing it leads to internal engine corrosion as the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant are used up. Changing it is a messy job as @blackrose says, but important.

 

When you say inner and outer fan belt, I'm assuming inner is the one that drives the engine alternator and water pump and outer drives the house battery alternator. Fan belt is a left over from the days when car engines had a fan on the water pump pulley to draw air through the radiator.  Boats don't have fans and modern cars have separate electric fans, <pedant>I know that alternators also have a fan on them</pedant>, so fan belt isn't really a good name for them any more.

 

Jen

 

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I change the drive belt (aka fan belt) every 12 months. The wear is noticeable after 18 months (the photo below is how I know - for various reasons the change I did last week was after 18 months). They are so cheap, and the consequences of failure at an  inconvenient time are not worth it IMHO.

 

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On 24/01/2020 at 08:35, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Coolant lasts between three and five years, depending on type. Not changing it leads to internal engine corrosion as the corrosion inhibitors in the coolant are used up. Changing it is a messy job as @blackrose says, but important.

Jen

 

 

Ford do a 10 year life antifreeze, it is expensive but I think worth it given the aggravation and mess of changing the engine coolant on a boat.

 

https://parts.vospers.com/genuine-ford-super-plus-premium-antifreeze-5-litres.html

Edited by cuthound
Phat phingers
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Check the alignment of the belts, it is common for this to be out on engines marinised for canal use. These small production runs often don't have the same standard as those in automotive installations. A minute deviation will cause premature faliure, it is normal for vehicle belts to last for many years without attention. A suitable straight edge placed on one of the pulleys will show if the belt is out of true.

  Most antifreeze has a lifespan of around three years, change it for peace of mind. 

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On 24/01/2020 at 23:18, Scholar Gypsy said:

I change the drive belt (aka fan belt) every 12 months. The wear is noticeable after 18 months (the photo below is how I know - for various reasons the change I did last week was after 18 months). They are so cheap, and the consequences of failure at an  inconvenient time are not worth it IMHO.

 

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I suspect the statements change every year and they're so cheap are related. Over the years I've replaced the drive belt on my engine any number of times (only had one break and that was fairly new) . Various makes scourced from chandlers, motor factors etc. All needed adjustment regularly. The last time I replaced it i bought my first Gates belt. That was about 3 years ago. Amazingly it has never needed adjustment. I had to take the altermnator off a couple of months ago and the belt was still in excellent  condition. Not saying don't change a belt as a precaution but am saying buy a really good quality one.

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