Alternator wiring

[M molly]

Can any one give me a diagram of alternator wiring to battery pack thank u

[Slim]

Other, far more knowledgable people will be along soon. In the meanwhile may I suggest that you give some details. Make of engine, alternator,. Maybe photos of present set up. Expect to be asked for other things as well.

[rusty69]

There are some basic charging diagrams on Tony B's excellent site (towards the bottom of the page):-

 

http://www.tb-training.co.uk/16elect.htm#bmn69

 

As said above though, for a specific answer to your set-up you will have to supply more information.

Edited January 9, 2020 by rusty69

[M molly]

The person I got the boat of took the wiring out so got to do it from scratch the engine is a sabb single cindinder 10hp and I'll get a pic of the alternator in a min thank u 

FORD Sierra 2.0i 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

Is that the alternator that has been on the engine, or the one you plan to put on it? Just the thing at the top says Ford Sierra 2..0i, which was a petrol car. I used to have one! If so, then it may not have a connection for a tacho.

Jen

[WotEver]

I drew the above some time ago, it might help. A few points worth mentioning:

1. The fuse in the alternator feed is in order to comply with BSS requirements. The alternative would be to connect that wire to the switched side of the isolator. 
2. The diagram assumes that a VSR is fitted to enable charging of the engine battery. 
3. The alternator output feeds the domestic bank - this is intentional. 

[M molly]

49 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Is that the alternator that has been on the engine, or the one you plan to put on it? Just the thing at the top says Ford Sierra 2..0i, which was a petrol car. I used to have one! If so, then it may not have a connection for a tacho.

Jen

It's a FORD Sierra 2.0 am putting on just needed a diagram of wiring to a battery I'll add battery pack on later on for power inside the boat thank u plus got the igniton switch and the warning light thank you

[Tony Brooks]

Tell us how the tree terminals are marked, the photo is not clear enough.

 

Notes:

 

I doubt the Sabb has a polly-V crankshaft pulley, can you get a suitable pulley for your alternator.

If this has much more than about a 70 amp output an ordinary V belt may struggle

You might have a problem getting the Sabb to spin the alternator fast enough.

If it is a higher output alternator the engine may stall or refuse to rev up upon first start with flatish batteries.

 

AS you do not seem to want to do a bit of research as suggested by Brian here is the basic diagram but NOT for a domestic alternator.F on my diagram may be labelled D+ and the black wire may be the case.

 

Edited January 9, 2020 by Tony Brooks

[Jen-in-Wellies]

22 minutes ago, M molly said:

It's a FORD Sierra 2.0 am putting on just needed a diagram of wiring to a battery I'll add battery pack on later on for power inside the boat thank u plus got the igniton switch and the warning light thank you

A Ford Sierra 2.0 was a model of car, not a type of alternator. The picture may have been of an alternator that was fitted in that car. The picture also shows a ribbed belt pulley, not a V belt, which I would have thought more likely on a Sabb 10hp single cylinder engine, so you may have to change the pulley at one end, or the other and possible in between too. In order to be able to wire it up you need to know which is the output, which will be the largest and which is the alternator light wire. There may be others like sense wires and tacho outputs too. I have no idea what this is on an old Sierra car alternator. The alternator warning light needs connecting up as otherwise the alternator won't work.

It is not just the wiring diagram, but an idea on wire sizes. Connections to the engine block from the battery negative and from the battery positive to the starter motor need to be a minimum of 25mm². The alternator output to battery positive, or starter positive can be smaller, perhaps 10, or 6mm², depending on the alternator output current and distance. Connections to any glow plugs may need to be substantial. 4mm², or more, depending. Other wires can be lighter. Boat safety scheme says there needs to be an isolator switch to disconnect the battery, but see the comments on the risk of wrecking the alternator.

 

I have put in a basic wiring set up in a friends boat to get the engine running so it could be moved and it can be very simple, but you need to understand what you are doing.

 

Jen

Edited January 9, 2020 by Jen-in-Wellies

[WotEver]

9 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

Boat safety scheme says there needs to be an isolator switch to disconnect the battery

Or a fuse if connected directly. See my diagram in post 6. 

[M molly]

25 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

A Ford Sierra 2.0 was a model of car, not a type of alternator. The picture may have been of an alternator that was fitted in that car. The picture also shows a ribbed belt pulley, not a V belt, which I would have thought more likely on a Sabb 10hp single cylinder engine, so you may have to change the pulley at one end, or the other and possible in between too. In order to be able to wire it up you need to know which is the output, which will be the largest and which is the alternator light wire. There may be others like sense wires and tacho outputs too. I have no idea what this is on an old Sierra car alternator. The alternator warning light needs connecting up as otherwise the alternator won't work.

It is not just the wiring diagram, but an idea on wire sizes. Connections to the engine block from the battery negative and from the battery positive to the starter motor need to be a minimum of 25mm². The alternator output to battery positive, or starter positive can be smaller, perhaps 10, or 6mm², depending on the alternator output current and distance. Connections to any glow plugs may need to be substantial. 4mm², or more, depending. Other wires can be lighter. Boat safety scheme says there needs to be an isolator switch to disconnect the battery, but see the comments on the risk of wrecking the alternator.

 

I have put in a basic wiring set up in a friends boat to get the engine running so it could be moved and it can be very simple, but you need to understand what you are doing.

 

Jen

Sorry wasn't clear I know it's off a FORD Sierra 2.0 the pulley has been changed to a v belt the wire still on the starter motor ready to be wired up but wanted to find out the right way and I have a insulator switch to with a warning light and a igniton switch to wire up thank u

30 minutes ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

A Ford Sierra 2.0 was a model of car, not a type of alternator. The picture may have been of an alternator that was fitted in that car. The picture also shows a ribbed belt pulley, not a V belt, which I would have thought more likely on a Sabb 10hp single cylinder engine, so you may have to change the pulley at one end, or the other and possible in between too. In order to be able to wire it up you need to know which is the output, which will be the largest and which is the alternator light wire. There may be others like sense wires and tacho outputs too. I have no idea what this is on an old Sierra car alternator. The alternator warning light needs connecting up as otherwise the alternator won't work.

It is not just the wiring diagram, but an idea on wire sizes. Connections to the engine block from the battery negative and from the battery positive to the starter motor need to be a minimum of 25mm². The alternator output to battery positive, or starter positive can be smaller, perhaps 10, or 6mm², depending on the alternator output current and distance. Connections to any glow plugs may need to be substantial. 4mm², or more, depending. Other wires can be lighter. Boat safety scheme says there needs to be an isolator switch to disconnect the battery, but see the comments on the risk of wrecking the alternator.

 

I have put in a basic wiring set up in a friends boat to get the engine running so it could be moved and it can be very simple, but you need to understand what you are doing.

 

Jen

Sorry wasn't clear I know it's off a FORD Sierra 2.0 the pulley has been changed to a v belt the wire still on the starter motor ready to be wired up but wanted to find out the right way and I have a insulator switch to with a warning light and a igniton switch to wire up thank u

[Jen-in-Wellies]

3 minutes ago, M molly said:

Sorry wasn't clear I know it's off a FORD Sierra 2.0 the pulley has been changed to a v belt the wire still on the starter motor ready to be wired up but wanted to find out the right way and I have a insulator switch to with a warning light and a igniton switch to wire up thank u

Sorry wasn't clear I know it's off a FORD Sierra 2.0 the pulley has been changed to a v belt the wire still on the starter motor ready to be wired up but wanted to find out the right way and I have a insulator switch to with a warning light and a igniton switch to wire up thank u

Finding out the which connection is which may be tricky. A possibility could be to find a place locally that repairs alternators and starter motors. Most towns of any size will have one. They may be able to tell you. Are there any numbers, or letters moulded in to the plastic by the terminals. If so, what are they as they may give a clue? You're going to need to do some research.

Jen

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

I drew the above some time ago, it might help. A few points worth mentioning:

1. The fuse in the alternator feed is in order to comply with BSS requirements. The alternative would be to connect that wire to the switched side of the isolator. 
2. The diagram assumes that a VSR is fitted to enable charging of the engine battery. 
3. The alternator output feeds the domestic bank - this is intentional. 

OP just fainted!

[M molly]

44 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Tell us how the tree terminals are marked, the photo is not clear enough.

 

Notes:

 

I doubt the Sabb has a polly-V crankshaft pulley, can you get a suitable pulley for your alternator.

If this has much more than about a 70 amp output an ordinary V belt may struggle

You might have a problem getting the Sabb to spin the alternator fast enough.

If it is a higher output alternator the engine may stall or refuse to rev up upon first start with flatish batteries.

 

AS you do not seem to want to do a bit of research as suggested by Brian here is the basic diagram but NOT for a domestic alternator.F on my diagram may be labelled D+ and the black wire may be the case.

 

 

[Jen-in-Wellies]

The B terminal goes to Battery Positive. A thick wire. What is the lettering under the centre red connector? It is probably the connection for the ignition warning light, but this needs confirming. W is probably the connection to the tacho. If so, then not needed just to get it running.

[ditchcrawler]

Maybe this one https://www.piecesauto24.com/herthbuss-elparts/1672578

[Jen-in-Wellies]

4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Maybe this one https://www.piecesauto24.com/herthbuss-elparts/1672578

Yes, that looks like it. If the alternator in questions centre terminal says D+, then this goes to the warning lamp. The other side of the warning lamp goes to battery +ve (via fuses, switches etc.)

[WotEver]

1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

W is probably the connection to the tacho. If so, then not needed just to get it running.

It doesn’t appear to have a stud anyhow so some bodgery will be required to use it in the future. I wonder if it’s even connected to a phase internally?

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

OP just fainted!

Don’t know why, it’s the simplest possible wiring diagram for a boat 12V system. 

[ditchcrawler]

Why do you need a tacho?

 

[Alan de Enfield]

4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Why do you need a tacho?

 

Here's why :

 

 

[MtB]

10 minutes ago, WotEver said:

It doesn’t appear to have a stud anyhow so some bodgery will be required to use it in the future. I wonder if it’s even connected to a phase internally?

 

I notice all four nuts from the foiur long studs holding the whole frame together (or not in this case) are missing. So I reckon someone has had this alternator to bits and just thrown it back together.

 

The OP would be well advised to get it tested and verified as working before putting much effort into grafting it onto the Saab.

 

 

[WotEver]

5 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

I notice all four nuts from the foiur long studs holding the whole frame together (or not in this case) are missing. So I reckon someone has had this alternator to bits and just thrown it back together.

 

The OP would be well advised to get it tested and verified as working before putting much effort into grafting it onto the Saab.

 

 

Good spot. I was staring at the connections and missed that. 

[ditchcrawler]

6 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Good spot. I was staring at the connections and missed that. 

I thought he had bought a new one from that website. directautoelectrical.co.uk for about sixty quid 

[Tony Brooks]

9 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

I thought he had bought a new one from that website. directautoelectrical.co.uk for about sixty quid 

That was the impression he gave but to me it looks a bit like "can't be bothered to take a photo so any similar image will do".

 

To Mikes observation. I think the through bolts may well be threaded in the back case. Still advisable to get it tested though.