Alan de Enfield Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 3 minutes ago, Deano1988 said: This is the tank area in engine bay. Just making sure the 1 with the handle on is for the lubricant for the propeller? Do you all think fuel polishing will do the trick? Thanks dean I'd be more than a little concerned about the unconnected diesel pipe, and the 'yellow' drain tap (that alone is a Boat safety test failure) 2.8.1 Is the fuel tank drain fitted with a plug or cap which can only be removed with tools? Check each fuel tank for the presence of a fuel drain facility. If present, check the drain outlet for the presence of a plug, cap or blank.If present, the outlets from fuel tank drains and drain valves must be terminated with a ‘tools‐to‐remove’ plug, cap or blank. Hopefully you have just disconnected them whilst you sort out you fuel problem , but if not then you now know you must have a 'tool needed to remove' fitting on the ends of the pipes. The pipe with the red handle LOOKS LIKE it is the water supply for the propshaft, but without seeing where the other end goes, it could even be a bilge pump hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 I'd also be concerned about the screw thread on the weed hatch lid securing clamp. Looks like it is probably seized up, needs oiling and screwing up and down to lube the thread, or when you come to need to use the hatch to clear the prop it might not undo or even snap if too much force is used on the handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frahkn Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 9 minutes ago, bizzard said: I'd also be concerned about the screw thread on the weed hatch lid securing clamp. Looks like it is probably seized up, needs oiling and screwing up and down to lube the thread, or when you come to need to use the hatch to clear the prop it might not undo or even snap if too much force is used on the handle. Particularly as the handle looks like a wooden 'T' on the metal shaft. OTOH the (currently illegal) drain may help with cleaning the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 For £6 odd I'd buy one of those pumps from Ebay, that I depicted in post 24. They really suck well and will suck up sludge and small particals of rust. Just poke the bendy plastic pick up pipe into the fuel filler. You can bend the pipe better if its heated a bit with hot water to reach all corners of the tank. You will need some old cans to pump the mucky fuel into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano1988 Posted January 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said: I'd be more than a little concerned about the unconnected diesel pipe, and the 'yellow' drain tap (that alone is a Boat safety test failure) 2.8.1 Is the fuel tank drain fitted with a plug or cap which can only be removed with tools? Check each fuel tank for the presence of a fuel drain facility. If present, check the drain outlet for the presence of a plug, cap or blank.If present, the outlets from fuel tank drains and drain valves must be terminated with a ‘tools‐to‐remove’ plug, cap or blank. Hopefully you have just disconnected them whilst you sort out you fuel problem , but if not then you now know you must have a 'tool needed to remove' fitting on the ends of the pipes. The pipe with the red handle LOOKS LIKE it is the water supply for the propshaft, but without seeing where the other end goes, it could even be a bilge pump hose. The fuel tank was disconnected and put to temp tank while I got the engine started (it's now running fine) just don't want to reattach tk the tank until it is sorted. The only drain for the fuel is the yellow tap in picture. 1 hour ago, bizzard said: I'd also be concerned about the screw thread on the weed hatch lid securing clamp. Looks like it is probably seized up, needs oiling and screwing up and down to lube the thread, or when you come to need to use the hatch to clear the prop it might not undo or even snap if too much force is used on the handle. I will have a look tomorrow at the handle and take some lubricant. The handle is metal So this is a weed hatch? What is the pipe for it goes to the prop shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Deano1988 said: The fuel tank was disconnected and put to temp tank while I got the engine started (it's now running fine) just don't want to reattach tk the tank until it is sorted. The only drain for the fuel is the yellow tap in picture. I will have a look tomorrow at the handle and take some lubricant. The handle is metal So this is a weed hatch? What is the pipe for it goes to the prop shaft? You probably have a rubber Cutless water lubricated sterntube bearing, Vetus possibly and the tube is to vent it to the weed box to allow canal water to run up inside the the cutless bearing to lubricate and keep it cool. Edited January 4, 2020 by bizzard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 10 minutes ago, Deano1988 said: The only drain for the fuel is the yellow tap in picture. That is the one that to be granted a safety Certificate, MUST be closed such that it can only be operated using a 'tool'. This is to avoid (little hands, or accidently opening) it filling your bilge with 100's of litres of fuel then your bilge pump pumping it all out into the canal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano1988 Posted January 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 13 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: That is the one that to be granted a safety Certificate, MUST be closed such that it can only be operated using a 'tool'. This is to avoid (little hands, or accidently opening) it filling your bilge with 100's of litres of fuel then your bilge pump pumping it all out into the canal. Thanks for that I will have to get this done because it defo doesn't have this Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 2 hours ago, Deano1988 said: Do you all think fuel polishing will do the trick? It won’t get rid of any of the crud in bottom of the tank. How much fuel is in the tank? If it’s not worth loads more than £200 then why polish it? Dump it at your local tip and then cut an access hole and get the tank cleared of all the gunk while it’s empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 37 minutes ago, Deano1988 said: Thanks for that I will have to get this done because it defo doesn't have this Removing the handle should do it. That just leaves a little stub sticking up which requires tools (like the handle) to undo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted January 4, 2020 Report Share Posted January 4, 2020 37 minutes ago, WotEver said: Removing the handle should do it. That just leaves a little stub sticking up which requires tools (like the handle) to undo. The appropriate suzed BSP threaded cap would be much better, preferably with a fibre disc seal inside it as this looks like a parallel threaded valve fitting. Get a hexagonal cap (some are round) and it can then readily be fitted and removed with a spanner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted February 26, 2020 Report Share Posted February 26, 2020 (edited) On 03/01/2020 at 18:27, bizzard said: I use this weapon to suck fuel and muck out of fuel tanks. Its really a fuel transfer pump for use on 40 gallon drums. It pumps like anything. Note the pump handle on to which you w--k up and down. The pick up tube is long and pretty flexible and will bend around corners. Its called a Marksman pump bought it on Ebay for £6 something. Lady G Get one of these. Marksman hand fuel transfer pump brilliant and powerful, £8 odd on Ebay. Page 1, post 22 Edited February 26, 2020 by bizzard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 26, 2020 Report Share Posted February 26, 2020 2 hours ago, bizzard said: Lady G Get one of these. Marksman hand fuel transfer pump brilliant and powerful, £8 odd on Ebay. Page 1, post 22 @LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, WotEver said: @LadyG I would have done, but can't find them on Ebay. Plus, It's quite a long way ftom bottom of tank to bottom of bilge. Will this work? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hand-Manual-Syphon-Siphon-Barrel-Pump-Extractor-Fuels-Diesel-Oil-Petrol-Water-UK/312868703611? or this by Marksman https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Manual-Plastic-Oil-Fuel-Extractor-Pump-Siphon-Tube-Hose-Liquid-Transfer-Pipe/164034442990? Edited February 27, 2020 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 No, this one (but they’re currently out of stock since Bizz last spike about them): https://store.fastcardirect.co.uk/large-syphon-pump-115cm-manual-operated-plastic-fuel-petrol-diesel-water-fluid-8374-p.asp 5 hours ago, LadyG said: Will this work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) Found one on eBay. Seller partsdaddyuk Search for... Manual Large Hand Syphon Siphon Barrel Pump Fuels Diesel Oil Petrol Water (DP30) Finally... got a link... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manual-Large-Hand-Syphon-Siphon-Barrel-Pump-Fuels-Diesel-Oil-Petrol-Water-DP30/132379718020 Edited February 27, 2020 by WotEver 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgreg Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 (edited) 5 hours ago, LadyG said: I would have done, but can't find them on Ebay. Plus, It's quite a long way ftom bottom of tank or this by Marksman https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Manual-Plastic-Oil-Fuel-Extractor-Pump-Siphon-Tube-Hose-Liquid-Transfer-Pipe/164034442990? I use this one, with the pipe attached to a thin length of wood (a garden cane will do the job) with cable ties. This keeps the pipe straight and you can be certain it is sucking up from the bottom but it is difficult to get into the sides. The plastic version mentioned in the previous post may be flexible for this so worth a try. Edited February 27, 2020 by rgreg Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 59 minutes ago, WotEver said: Found one on eBay. Seller partsdaddyuk Search for... Manual Large Hand Syphon Siphon Barrel Pump Fuels Diesel Oil Petrol Water (DP30) Finally... got a link... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Manual-Large-Hand-Syphon-Siphon-Barrel-Pump-Fuels-Diesel-Oil-Petrol-Water-DP30/132379718020 That's the one. You can see the big red nut on it that screws into the 40 gallon drums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianws Posted February 27, 2020 Report Share Posted February 27, 2020 Would this be good for siphoning from a 25l drum to the fuel tank. The description mentions a pump but it’s hard to see on the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard10002 Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Ianws said: Would this be good for siphoning from a 25l drum to the fuel tank. The description mentions a pump but it’s hard to see on the pictures. Yes.... Thats exactly what it's designed for. You create a vacuum by pumping the concertina like bit at the top and, once the fuel gets past the junction, it continues to flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tosher Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 On 02/01/2020 at 21:25, Bee said: Best thing is to make a project out of this and do it properly. Where is the tank? If it is possible then cut a 6" dia. hole or so , drill a ring of small holes, enlarge them and with a cold chisel (Not a wood chisel) bash the disc out. then you can drain the gunge out and swab the rust and crap out and start again. Fix a plate over the hole, drill and tap bolt holes and with a decent gasket fix the whole lot back together. That is what I did. Its a horrible job but I can check every year now. If that is impossible then all you can do is flush it many times and do the best you can. This seems like a good idea to me but will it have any implications with the BSS like needing a second Pressure test with the new access hole plate in position ??????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 (edited) 31 minutes ago, tosher said: This seems like a good idea to me but will it have any implications with the BSS like needing a second Pressure test with the new access hole plate in position ??????? Does the BSS really state that the fuel tank needs to be pressure tested ? I think the answer you are looking for contains two-letters. Edited February 28, 2020 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: Does the BSS really state that the fuel tank needs to be pressure tested ? People here seem to get terribly mixed up between things that are mandatory and things that are just good practice. Edited February 28, 2020 by Mike the Boilerman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 (edited) 11 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said: People here seem to get terribly mixed up between things that are mandatory and things that are just good practice. People get easily confused by paperwork - after all there is so much paperwork with owning an inland waterway boat ! Maybe they meant the RCD (its still 3 letters) The RCD actually requires that there are hatches incorporated in the tank to allow for cleaning - how many NB's have that ? (Not a lot of people know that) The harmonised standard is BS EN ISO 21487 Permanently installed petrol and diesel fuel tanks Guidance: A means to indicate the acceptable test pressure of the fuel tank is required, along with details of a test. Under the harmonised standard, an inspection hatch (or hatches) need to be fitted to each tank, with a minimum diameter of 120 mm (5") or equivalent to enable cleaning and inspection to the lower part of the tank. Each hatch may be fitted to the side or top of the tank and needs to be fueltight. Portable fuel tanks (not exceeding 27 litres) are outside the scope of the Directive. Edited February 28, 2020 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacko264 Posted February 28, 2020 Report Share Posted February 28, 2020 If it's got a drain tap on the tank why do you need a pump ? The biggest problem I can see is getting the rust and slime out Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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