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Solar Panels


Dunworkin

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19 minutes ago, pig said:

Just out of interest, why did you fit the mounting brackets on the fore/aft edges of the panels? If they were on the other sides, your ropes wouldn't get caught under the panels?

When I tried that, the camber on the roof meant that the brackets were not 'high enough, so I would have had to have had special brackets made. I eventually went for the 'tilting' A brackets anyway.

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11 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

When I tried that, the camber on the roof meant that the brackets were not 'high enough, so I would have had to have had special brackets made. I eventually went for the 'tilting' A brackets anyway.

Ah, OK, I must have a shallow camber on my roof

IMG_0133.JPG

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CIGS Type 120 w each.

 

Self fitted. See gland in pigeon box. Aluminum box section conduit, sikaflex and red hammerite. Enough room to walk on roof/stow centrelines. And yes, it is a Lancaster.

 

 

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20190702_151058_resized.jpg

Edited by mark99
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Sorry if i am repeating points. I think its largely a matter of how you want to trade off efficiency,  aesthetics,  air draft,  rope snagging  etc.

 

I went for minimal visual impact, after deciding against stick on. The lashing system has been improved a bit. There are 1" battens along the long sides of the panel with rubber feet.  Removeable in about 5 minutes,  and I do have a switch between panel and controller. Full details here 

 

https://scholargypsy.org.uk/2018/04/23/fitting-the-solar/

 

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Edited by Scholar Gypsy
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5 hours ago, mark99 said:

CIGS Type 120 w each.

 

Self fitted. See gland in pigeon box. Aluminum box section conduit, sikaflex and red hammerite. Enough room to walk on roof/stow centrelines. And yes, it is a Lancaster.

 

 

20190702_150837_resized.jpg

 

 

20190702_150726_resized.jpg

 

 

20190702_151137_resized.jpg

 

 

20190702_151058_resized.jpg

Where did you get those panels from?? 

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7 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

Alde flue is now your high point, shame that they never made them demountable.

I too use 2 centre lines though my panel is forward of the cleat as I found it more convenient than for ever flicking it across the roof and hatches.

It always was the fixed high point, and I did not want to impact on that.  The stove flue cover is the highest point, but that can be removed of course, and same with the tiller pin.  It would be nice if the Alde flue was not so tall or could be removed, that would give another couple of inches clearance for sure.

 

 

7 hours ago, pig said:

Just out of interest, why did you fit the mounting brackets on the fore/aft edges of the panels? If they were on the other sides, your ropes wouldn't get caught under the panels?

I did not do the fitting, but I would say for clearance due to curvature of the roof, plus I wanted the junction box under the rear panel (you can see it at the left hand side) for neatness and not adding a trip hazard.

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Just now, mark99 said:

Midsummer energy.

Ta! How are you finding them? Did you do any special prep to the roof finish before fitting them? Do they output a decent amount...I’m aware real world figures can be very different from paper specs.

 

Sorry for all the questions! They look like just the thing for me...still tempted to fix using magnetic tape rather than fixing down using the self adhesive backing. 

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1 hour ago, frangar said:

Ta! How are you finding them? Did you do any special prep to the roof finish before fitting them? Do they output a decent amount...I’m aware real world figures can be very different from paper specs.

 

Sorry for all the questions! They look like just the thing for me...still tempted to fix using magnetic tape rather than fixing down using the self adhesive backing. 

 

I'm not enough of an expert to say if they are good as they are my first. They are meant to be super efficient but that's prob a bit of hype.

 

As regards the roof, marked out lightly in pencil on the roof the panel footprint outline to concentrate on any paint defects.

 

I had a few small rust bubbles/scratches/delaminations (about 100) so circled those in pencil and rubbed them down and put a rust eater paint on. Then degreased/wiped when dry. Remarked out in pencil on the roof the footprint outline and used that as a guide to peel away the sticky backing and lay carefully. It was very easy (easier than I thought to position without aggro). There is about a 3-4mm layers of robust but soft sticky gum on the back - like industrial adhesive. So you peel off and prerss down lay against the pencil lines.

 

Here you can see one side painted (black) the other just rubbed flat before painting (with a mouse sander).

 

I did check with a multimeter both panels before I stuck them down to ensure they were working!

 

 

 

20190622_114032.jpg

Edited by mark99
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These type of panels used to be made by a company called Unisolar in the USA and are the only type of flexible panel I would recommend. 

Now there is a new manufacturer, I do intend to install these on Old Friends within a couple of years as they dont make any visual impact on the boats lines.

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22 minutes ago, mark99 said:

 

I'm not enough of an expert to say if they are good as they are my first. They are meant to be super efficient but that's prob a bit of hype.

 

As regards the roof, marked out lightly in pencil on the roof the panel footprint outline to concentrate on any paint defects.

 

I had a few small rust bubbles/scratches/delaminations (about 100) so circled those in pencil and rubbed them down and put a rust eater paint on. Then degreased/wiped when dry. Remarked out in pencil on the roof the footprint outline and used that as a guide to peel away the sticky backing and lay carefully. It was very easy (easier than I thought to position without aggro). There is about a 3-4mm layers of robust but soft sticky gum on the back - like industrial adhesive. So you peel off and prerss down lay against the pencil lines.

 

Here you can see one side painted (black) the other just rubbed flat before painting (with a mouse sander).

 

I did check with a multimeter both panels before I stuck them down to ensure they were working!

 

 

 

20190622_114032.jpg

I’m liking them more and more!  Do you have any idea of the amps they are putting into your batteries on a sunny day if the batteries are down a bit?  Just wondering how the heat from the roof affects them....

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Unfortunately I do not have records to hand but the MPPT controller (Victron) has a piece of software which links to your phone (if in range - Bluetooth)  that gives you all the graphs/figures etc and appeared to be better slightly than an adjacent conventional 240 W single panel in bote next door (in cloudy conditions).

 

 

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4 minutes ago, mark99 said:

Unfortunately I do not have records to hand but the MPPT controller (Victron) has a piece of software which links to your phone (if in range - Bluetooth)  that gives you all the graphs/figures etc and appeared to be better slightly than an adjacent conventional 240 W single panel in bote next door (in cloudy conditions).

 

 

That’s good. I just want a set up which means I can moor up for a few days in the summer and not have to run the engine.
 

As long as it supports the Usual led lighting/pumps/fridge and a bit of inverter power for the tv & laptops I’d be happy.

 

I was thinking about 300w of solar but I think 240w might be close enough....might just need to run the engine if there’s a lot of cloud I guess. 

 

I don’t need to worry about winter as I’m always on a hook up. 

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On 02/01/2020 at 14:12, matty40s said:

I believe this plan was used a few years ago by a member who then became an a member with a wide beam on the K&A.

The problem with swivelling and tilting panels is you spend all day going back and moving them to track the sun

 

Yes but is there any info on this site now about it

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