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Probably a stupid question


Steph H

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No - it's not a stupid question - and quite  reasonable.

You didn't ask but one of the 'challenges' is how to get the heat OUT of the heat source. Some folks use finrad type units (low level pipes with fins on them - but they just don't "radiate" (convect) enough of the heat generated.

I fitted the largest rads: I could get under the gunnels and a double shorter rad in the solution as well as a single smaller one in the bathroom to dry the towels. The larger units are arranged so that I can dry wet clothes / towels and even sheets on them.

Even with lots of heated are the theoretical heat distribution is smaller than the boiler chucks out.

 

Edited by OldGoat
more detain before others get there
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7 minutes ago, system 4-50 said:

Yes.

Are you doing it yourself?  Remember to allow for pipe expansion.

Yes, well my brother will be doing it. He's fitted numerous heating systems domestically so not worried regards the plumbing. Am getting a professional to fit boiler and marine systems.

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Another yes. Towel rail type in the bathroom and two other conventional type ones.

 

We run ours off an Eberspacher diesel heater. Use them late autumn / early spring. It also heats up the calorifier.

If using them in this configuration antifreeze in the circuit is recommended, unless you are willing to drain the system every winter.

 

We also have a stand alone wood burning stove for long term heating.

Bathroom radiator.jpg

boat update 007.jpg

Edited by Ray T
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When your brother designs the system don’t select radiator load to match the boat, rather ensure the rads will load the boiler so it does not cycle on & off which is not good for a diesel boiler, better to run continuously until the boat is a bit too hot, then turn it off until the boat is a bit chilly, then back on again.

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2 hours ago, Steph H said:

Yes, well my brother will be doing it. He's fitted numerous heating systems domestically so not worried regards the plumbing. Am getting a professional to fit boiler and marine systems.

 

If your brother has been more used to domestic systems, tell him to try to use compression fittings instead of soldered joints.  A much better way of doing it on boats.

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Or plastic barrier pipe and push fit.

 

Thats what I used on " mark 1 " system on my boat.  Probably because it's an unpumped gravity system but the feed pipes used to sag dramatically (correctly spaced clips) so out that came.  " mark 2 " was re done in copper and works as planned.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, NB Esk said:

Probably because it's an unpumped gravity system but the feed pipes used to sag dramatically (correctly spaced clips)

 

No, all plastic pipes increase in length dramatically when they get hot. Expect a ten foot length of plastic pipe to get about half an inch longer between 20c and say 80c.

 

This extra length has to go somewhere so if it is fixed at each end, the pipe will form into a wave shape between the clips.

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

No, all plastic pipes increase in length dramatically when they get hot. Expect a ten foot length of plastic pipe to get about half an inch longer between 20c and say 80c.

 

This extra length has to go somewhere so if it is fixed at each end, the pipe will form into a wave shape between the clips.

 

 

 

Never gave a thought to plastic pipes expanding, I'll remember that, thanks.

 

 

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14 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

No, all plastic pipes increase in length dramatically when they get hot. Expect a ten foot length of plastic pipe to get about half an inch longer between 20c and say 80c.

 

This extra length has to go somewhere so if it is fixed at each end, the pipe will form into a wave shape between the clips.

 

 

It could be poked through lengths of 18mm copper tube to restrain it and keep it on the straight and narrow. :)

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And if you get a blockage in your plumbing or thrombosis of the pipes, in that situation these plastic pipes if got really hot can not only expand lengthwise a lot, like railway lines  but can also become bloated in girth too, like an over extended stomach, constipation, caused by gluttony and often by eating too many eggs.

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5 hours ago, OldGoat said:

Some folks use finrad type units (low level pipes with fins on them - but they just don't "radiate" (convect) enough of the heat generated.

 

Our finrads produce more than enough heat making the boat toasty, so maybe not all types of finrads have issues?

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2 hours ago, Markinaboat said:

I'm planning on installing these in due course:

 

 

Classic_Column_600x2.jpg

I've got a couple of these fitted, excellent output. They measure about 3'×2' and were originally from a steam fed system, having the bleed valve midway instead of the usual position at the top.

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26 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Our finrads produce more than enough heat making the boat toasty, so maybe not all types of finrads have issues?

That's good to hear. Shows you that calculations don't always show you what really works in practice!

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14 hours ago, BWM said:

I've got a couple of these fitted, excellent output. They measure about 3'×2' and were originally from a steam fed system, having the bleed valve midway instead of the usual position at the top.

Ditto. I bought two similar to this from The Radiator Company

Busy piping mine up right now. Two systems, One a Diesel Boiler when out and about and the other an electric flow boiler (when hooked on to mains at the mooring).

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