Jump to content

Changing the immersion element within the Calorifier


grockell

Featured Posts

2 hours ago, dmr said:

Turn off the mains and take that cover off (last photo) and you will find one or even two thermostats inside it, one will have the adjustable dial for temperature. Try turning it up a bit.  If you need to change the thermostat then get the proper spanner and a spare gasket or two.

 

................Dave

Element not thermostat, you can change the stat with just a terminal screwdriver. If you slowly raise and lower the temperature of the thermostat you should hear it click

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Element not thermostat, you can change the stat with just a terminal screwdriver. If you slowly raise and lower the temperature of the thermostat you should hear it click

The inside of the cover should look something like this:

image.png.c5b1c5b4e15dc1cd5b1cf9a542da1659.png

The blue bit is the end of the thermostat and it slides into a pocket. It is only held in by the wires so is easy to change. Try turning it up a bit. If that doesn't work they're only a few quid from Screwfix to replace, just get one the right length.

 

Martin/

 

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:

The inside of the cover should look something like this:

image.png.c5b1c5b4e15dc1cd5b1cf9a542da1659.png

The blue bit is the end of the thermostat and it slides into a pocket. It is only held in by the wires so is easy to change. Try turning it up a bit. If that doesn't work they're only a few quid from Screwfix to replace, just get one the right length.

 

Martin/

 

Depending on the make it may be a different colour, red oxide being a common one,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BEngo said:

A tubular or box spanner is a better bet, but if using one like David suggests, put two on at once, with the handles opposite each other.  This balances the thrusts so there is only twisting  force on the immersion and enables you to easily apply both hands to the job so applying most force.  From your pictures the existing heater looks well scaled in!

N

 

Good tip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

I hope yours is better than mine was... lots of WD40, get the tank really hot and slow gentle spanner pressure...…  I had the box spanner which allowed me a little more pressure, but anxious not to bend the tank!

20190913_152117.jpg

Seen better days at a guess. Did you manage to get it out..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Nightwatch said:

Seen better days at a guess. Did you manage to get it out..

Yes... eventually..... it wouldn't budge at all until I'd run the engine for a few hours to get the water temp right up... I was looking at the cost of replacement calorifiers (!!!!!) when I thought I must have another go and bingo!  Solved two problems - I could now get hot water in the marina plus it stopped a water leak - it had rusted through the thermostat tube and bubbled out when the water got hot!

Edited by robtheplod
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

I hope yours is better than mine was... lots of WD40, get the tank really hot and slow gentle spanner pressure...…  I had the box spanner which allowed me a little more pressure, but anxious not to bend the tank!

20190913_152117.jpg

That’s been a little damp. 
 

I always try to be observant and helpful :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

I hope yours is better than mine was... lots of WD40, get the tank really hot and slow gentle spanner pressure...…  I had the box spanner which allowed me a little more pressure, but anxious not to bend the tank!

20190913_152117.jpg

WOW! That's pretty terrifying. Yeah, I really hope it's not that bad.

Im struggling to visualise how a box spanner would work with this? You have box spanner which fits onto the element's nut? wouldn't that be massive? 

1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

Yes... eventually..... it wouldn't budge at all until I'd run the engine for a few hours to get the water temp right up... I was looking at the cost of replacement calorifiers (!!!!!) when I thought I must have another go and bingo!  Solved two problems - I could now get hot water in the marina plus it stopped a water leak - it had rusted through the thermostat tube and bubbled out when the water got hot!

Is there any risk with getting the water really hot? I can just picture boiling hot water spewing out all over me once I crack the element off. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

I hope yours is better than mine was... lots of WD40, get the tank really hot and slow gentle spanner pressure...…  I had the box spanner which allowed me a little more pressure, but anxious not to bend the tank!

20190913_152117.jpg

 

A quick coat of Vactan and then a coat of hammerite on top and it will be better than new.  :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, grockell said:

 

Is there any risk with getting the water really hot? I can just picture boiling hot water spewing out all over me once I crack the element off. 

You get the tank good and hot then just try to crack the nut, no more, once it moves drain the water down a bit. If you do it with the water pump off and open a hot tap there wont be any pressure in there. The water gives the cylinder both weight and rigidity

  • Greenie 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, David Schweizer said:

 

 

Spanners can be ontained from places like Screwfix for less than £3.00

 

 

 

                                    image.png.6e600b7ac16e566aecd876dde5f34f90.png

If the immersion heater is tight in its boss (and it usually is), a flat, non-cranked spanner is much better as the thump from the big hammer is in line with the seized thread.  The box spanner tends to get knocked over and comes off the flats; the cranked sort does that too - and also twists its metal at the offset

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Tacet said:

If the immersion heater is tight in its boss (and it usually is), a flat, non-cranked spanner is much better as the thump from the big hammer is in line with the seized thread.  The box spanner tends to get knocked over and comes off the flats; the cranked sort does that too - and also twists its metal at the offset

Yes mine was flat, never used a cranked one and didn't think of that

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used a cranked one and can confirm they buckle if you hit them hard enough. The thermostats all seem to be the blue ones now and coming from the same factory in China. The bodies are slightly larger than other colours and won't sit down properly on some makes  of immersion heater. Check the screwfix feedback for them! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.