Need Boat Moved from P&S Marine to Central London - sorry! (And another CC'd)

[WotEver]

17 hours ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

special low temperature-friendly  epoxy

Oooh, don’t get @Dr Bob started on so-called ‘low temperature’ epoxies

[Dr Bob]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Oooh, don’t get @Dr Bob started on so-called ‘low temperature’ epoxies

 

?

[cuthound]

20 hours ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

All is well in my little boating world ?

 

Normal blacking for now (apparently an additional benefit of going down this route is avoiding the slow delivery times on what was apparently going to have to be special low temperature-friendly  epoxy) and transport to 'actually I would start from there' marina arranged.

 

Thank you all!

 

The hull won't rust significantly in a few months.

 

I would leave the blacking until the summer and then get it grit blasted and use 2 pack.

 

No point in putting any blacking on this time of year unless the boatyard has a heated dry dock.

[Guest]

18 minutes ago, cuthound said:

 

The hull won't rust significantly in a few months.

Based on the state of it now, 2yrs after last blacking, I'd say it is certainly possible!

 

I'm happy to invest in the epoxy (probably with UHPressure (3,000psi?) water rather than grit blasting?) later but feel more comfortable getting rid of the microbial rust straight away.

 

I want a bunch more anodes and wd quite like a bare hull inspection. Neither of which are much incremental expense over the craning I've already paid for for survey and transport. 

 

Any thoughts on the best way to attach hanging anodes (for mooring between boats all on shore power) and if a proper transformer thingy is much better than GIB much appreciated... May do another thread on those :-)

[Dr Bob]

6 minutes ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

 

 

I'm happy to invest in the epoxy (probably with UHPressure (3,000psi?) water rather than grit blasting?) later but feel more comfortable getting rid of the microbial rust straight away.

 

 

Watch out for epoxy put on over a UHPressure water blast. Make sure you get a good warranty from the boatyard! Epoxy normally requires a grit blast which gives a certain surface profile ie SA2.5 which is needed for full adhesion. The surface profile from water blasting (wotever pressure) is smoother therefore not as much adhesive key. I would anticipate that the performance will be compromised without SA2.5 preparation.

[cuthound]

27 minutes ago, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

Based on the state of it now, 2yrs after last blacking, I'd say it is certainly possible!

 

I'm happy to invest in the epoxy (probably with UHPressure (3,000psi?) water rather than grit blasting?) later but feel more comfortable getting rid of the microbial rust straight away.

 

I want a bunch more anodes and wd quite like a bare hull inspection. Neither of which are much incremental expense over the craning I've already paid for for survey and transport. 

 

Any thoughts on the best way to attach hanging anodes (for mooring between boats all on shore power) and if a proper transformer thingy is much better than GIB much appreciated... May do another thread on those ?

 

Microbial rust can be removed by wire brushing and washing in bleach.

 

I agree the cost of docking the boat is a significant part of ordinary blacking  less so with grit blasting and 2 pack.

 

Never seen a canal boat with hanging anodes. They are usually are bolted or welded directly to the hull.

 

No difference in effectiveness between an isolating transformer and a working galvanic isolator. Search the forum for details of how to check your GI is working using a multimeter on diode test mode, or a Pp9 battery and a light bulb.

Edited December 3, 2019 by cuthound
Clarification & spillung

[Guest]

@Dr Bob. Thanks for that on surface prep - my caution abt grit on precious new boat was precisely around surface not being roughed up. Makes sense tho. 

 

 

[Guest]

@cuthoundyes. And 70% concentration of rubbing alcohol stuff which is more aquatic life friendly. But by the time I've paid them to do all that and touch up the blacking after... 

 

Re: hanging anodes there aren't as many as I'd like at the sides but yard are cautious abt welding where there is insulation on the inside. So, was thinking to replace the ones at the four 'corners', pop three down the centre line and then have a hanging one each side possibly clamped onto the finger rail thing where fender hooks go so they can be lifted up easily. Unsure where is most practical to make the connection (underside of finger rail? Somewhere near metal windows?) 

[David Mack]

On 03/12/2019 at 16:54, TheMenagerieAfloat said:

 

Re: hanging anodes there aren't as many as I'd like at the sides but yard are cautious abt welding where there is insulation on the inside. So, was thinking to replace the ones at the four 'corners', pop three down the centre line and then have a hanging one each side possibly clamped onto the finger rail thing where fender hooks go so they can be lifted up easily. Unsure where is most practical to make the connection (underside of finger rail? Somewhere near metal windows?) 

 

Are your hanging anodes going to hang off the handrails like those tubular rubber fenders? Are you going to cruise with them down? How are you going to ensure they don't get ripped off or wedge up in narrow locks?

Edited December 7, 2019 by David Mack

[Guest]

1 hour ago, David Mack said:

 

Are your hanging anodes going to hang off the handrails like those tubular rubber fenders? Are you going to cruise with them down? How are you going to ensure they don't get ripped off or wedge up in narrow locks?

Erm, they are for when on shore power... I'm planning to disconnect that for cruising! The anodes can sit inside my kart fenders  on the roof for cruising. 

 

I'm thinking not a huge amount more effort as I'm walking along the gunnels pulling up fenders to retrieve an anode or two :-) 

 

 

[TheBiscuits]

On 03/12/2019 at 12:51, WotEver said:

Oooh, don’t get @Dr Bob started on so-called ‘low temperature’ epoxies

They do exist, but it's worth noting that cold-climate application epoxy (eg Hempel Hempadur 45143) is what you want to use in the UK in summer - forget it in winter unless you are in a climate controlled dry dock.

 

Warm-climate epoxy is designed to be applied in temperatures of 25-30 °C so think Marseille not Manchester.