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Info:Chinese Diesel Heater spares site in brum


reg

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Currently doing a bit of research on possibly installing on of those Chinese 'planar' heaters and came across this new site which has just been created 7th on November 

https://dieselkeepyouwarm.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR3tah3METyj4wu7Bfr0j7hWZjEn0uBaBGbqOVVw5meJbKt1KPm4UlFr0Ps

I believe the owner is a regular contributor on various Facebook sites. 

Looks very usefull for units, fittings and spares. 

Thought the link might be of use on here. 

 

Early days for me yet but a good chance I will be asking questions soon. 

Standard disclaimer time. I have no association with the site just thought it could be of use on here. 

 

 

 

Edited by reg
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1 hour ago, reg said:

Currently doing a bit of research on possibly installing on of those Chinese 'planar' heaters and came across this new site which has just been created 7th on November 

https://dieselkeepyouwarm.co.uk/?fbclid=IwAR3tah3METyj4wu7Bfr0j7hWZjEn0uBaBGbqOVVw5meJbKt1KPm4UlFr0Ps

I believe the owner is a regular contributor on various Facebook sites. 

Looks very usefull for units, fittings and spares. 

Thought the link might be of use on here. 

 

Early days for me yet but a good chance I will be asking questions soon. 

Standard disclaimer time. I have no association with the site just thought it could be of use on here. 

 

 

 

 

Good link, thanks!

 

I have one of these in one of my boats and it works really well. The main problem is this is for vehicles not boats and in a boat, the exhaust is inside unlike in a vehicle where it is intended to go straight though the floor. 

 

Consequently it is supplied with no 'through the hull' exhaust fitting which you have to buy independently for about £50, and there is no exhaust silencer either which costs a further £100 for one suitable for inside the boat. 

 

Just saying, so peeps here know. 

 

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Just fitted the all in one type in my boat.

Once a problem with far too long wiring,was sorted (too much voltage drop) it works fine.There are several sources of inexpensive spares (compared to Eberspacher and Webasto) on the net.

As I only have one battery on my outboard powered boat, I think it will be ok when cruising every day,but if there are stoppages it will be necessary to run the engine to keep the battery topped up.

These heaters are cheap to buy,but you will need a proper insulated exhaust outlet (about £45) although a cheapie plastic one is ok for the inlet,and probably longer exhaust and inlet pipes too.

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As it will be a fresh install I'm Tempted by this. 

Having removed my alde some time ago I have a full central heating plumbing, albeit sans the boiler, in place and a 10 meter coil of 10mm copper tubing left over from my build. 

Might be picking your brain on this Mike. 

 

Edited by reg
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Well to start with, he keeps banging on about it being free, but it isn't! You have to buy some copper tube, a pump a steel former, and possibly a calorifier with an additional heating coil inside. Best part of £700 plus a day or two of your time to rig it all up.

 

Second point is his demo is heating a bucket of water. The tiny flow achieved and the slow, slow rate of rise in temp means the power being recovered is trivial. Pump that through your (guessing) three rads and they simply will never get hot! It took an hour to get his bucket from 11c to 41c. 

 

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

Well to start with, he keeps banging on about it being free, but it isn't! You have to buy some copper tube, a pump a steel former, and possibly a calorifier with an additional heating coil inside. Best part of £700 plus a day or two of your time to rig it all up.

 

Second point is his demo is heating a bucket of water. The tiny flow achieved and the slow, slow rate of rise in temp means the power being recovered is trivial. Pump that through your (guessing) three rads and they simply will never get hot! It took an hour to get his bucket from 11c to 41c. 

 

 

 

 

I have

Coil of copper tube

Calorifier

Former shouldn't be a problem 

As it will be a new install there shouldn't be a lot of additional work. 

 

Just need to sort out a pump and how to connect to calorifier. 

 

I don't expect to be able to run my radiators from it but if it helps raise temp of calorifier water or even just help retain the heat of the water then I don't envisage any real downside. 

 

One thing I was wondering was if it took any heat away from the blown air though, assuming it does how much. 

Also will the air blower part be less fuel efficient, if so by how much. 

 

One possibility is to have a valve in the circuit to stop the water flow, or possible just a switch to stop the water pump. 

 Only pondering at the moment but would appreciate your thoughts. 

 

 

 

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Like the idea but,probably of no use to me on my little plastic boat.When I need hot water I simply boil the kettle.

If you were to wind copper pipe over the whole length of the exhaust and cover it all with exhaust lagging I am sure that will improve it.

I think it will take some heat from the blown air,as the exhaust is from the heat exchanger and the exhaust will be running cooler,but I don't think it will be noticed except by a thermometer on the blown air outlet.

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On 22/11/2019 at 09:24, Mad Harold said:

Once a problem with far too long wiring,was sorted (too much voltage drop) it works fine.

 

I think I might have that problem. I extended my wire using ordinary two core house wire (and a joining block) and even when my battery is at 12.6v the heater throws up an E-03 (glowplug) error.

 

Did you still extend your wire? By how much? What kind of wire did you use?

 

I'm hoping it is a voltage drop and isn't really a faulty glowplug.

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On 22/11/2019 at 10:55, reg said:

As it will be a fresh install I'm Tempted by this. 

Having removed my alde some time ago I have a full central heating plumbing, albeit sans the boiler, in place and a 10 meter coil of 10mm copper tubing left over from my build. 

Might be picking your brain on this Mike. 

 

That is an absolutely crackin' idea for free hot water. Ingenious.

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5 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

 

I think I might have that problem. I extended my wire using ordinary two core house wire (and a joining block) and even when my battery is at 12.6v the heater throws up an E-03 (glowplug) error.

 

Did you still extend your wire? By how much? What kind of wire did you use?

 

I'm hoping it is a voltage drop and isn't really a faulty glowplug.

I wired the heater direct to the battery with an isolation switch and in line fuse giving the heater it's own circuit.

The wire from the battery to the heater is less than half the length it was.It went from the battery to the master switch to a junction box in the toilet along the port side under the outboard well and back along the starboard side to the heater in the cabin.

The error icon I got on mine was low voltage, havn't got the manual to hand,but I think it was E1.

Don't despair,looked on e bay and new heater plugs are only about a tenner The wire I used was two core 20amp.

Edited by Mad Harold
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16 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

That is an absolutely crackin' idea for free hot water. Ingenious.

Although, due to intended location of heater on boat, I won't be doing this I did do a bit more research and found that the consensus of opinion appears to be that using a 2nd hand EGR gives better results. 

Literally thousands of salvaged EGRs on ebay. 

Does require some additional plumbing though. 

Sample here. 

Also has the advantage of cooling down exhaust and exhaust gas. 

If I was mounting this in my semi trad  engine bay I might seriously consider doing this. 

 

Edited by reg
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42 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Not a good idea to use domestic single core wire. You should really be using multi strand flexible wiring.

 

Sorry, that's my bad wording. It is multi-strand wire, it's just that its using your big standard blue and brown wires that you'd use for a 240v device.

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low voltage (due to low battery or volt drop) can give many different errors (not just E-01).

 

if you have any sort of current monitoring see what the heater is pulling before it errors out, if it's over 5A your heater is probably ok.

 

I have one of these heaters running in a workshop to fend off the massive amounts of condensation we get in there, up until yesterday it was running from a 25A ham radio psu which is a risk because if power fails while the heater is running it can damage its control board (no fan to cool it all down), we switched over to a battery and smart(ish) charger.

last night the heater stopped running (after 3 weeks of almost continuous running) and gave just about every error going, it turns out that while our charger is smart I am not, I had not turned the charger on so the battery had died.

 

My usage is quite a good test of the reliability of the heater as I have added an extra control module which shuts the heater down completely if the temp get's too warm in the room and restarts it when the temperature drops, normally they just go to low heat output but never shut down so my extra bit means that the heater is seeing far more starts & stops than it would in normal use (meaning it uses quite a bit more battery power and a lot more uses of the glowplug) but it does keep the room temperature between 19 & 21 degrees if at all possible.

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6 minutes ago, Jess-- said:

low voltage (due to low battery or volt drop) can give many different errors (not just E-01).

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I got an E-03 last time my battery went low. So I'm hoping that shortening the extension cable will stop that. If not, then it may well be the glowplug right enough.

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1 minute ago, ronnietucker said:

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I got an E-03 last time my battery went low. So I'm hoping that shortening the extension cable will stop that. If not, then it may well be the glowplug right enough.

as a quick & dirty test just double up the cables (2 x positive & 2 x negative)

if your heater works fine then you know you need heavier cable, if it still doesn't run you need to get a multimeter on the heater plug

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5 minutes ago, Jess-- said:

as a quick & dirty test just double up the cables (2 x positive & 2 x negative)

if your heater works fine then you know you need heavier cable, if it still doesn't run you need to get a multimeter on the heater plug

That's a damn fine idea! Thanks for that. The amount I cut off could probably be the 2nd cables.

1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

That is likely to be 2.5mm at its largest

Probably, but the cable that came attached to the unit is probably about the same/less.

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4 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

Probably, but the cable that came attached to the unit is probably about the same/less.

Yes, but if you double the length of the cable then you have to double the size of it.
 

So if it comes with 1m of 2.5mm2 and you need 2m then it should all be 5mm2. If you need 3m then it should all be 8mm2 etc. 

23 hours ago, ronnietucker said:

I think I might have that problem. I extended my wire using ordinary two core house wire (and a joining block)...

That won’t work. See above for why. 

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26 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Yes, but if you double the length of the cable then you have to double the size of it.
 

So if it comes with 1m of 2.5mm2 and you need 2m then it should all be 5mm2. If you need 3m then it should all be 8mm2 etc. 

If I'm reading it correctly the supplied wiring was more than 2x longer than necessary so he cot it in half.

In theory being half the length it shouldn't have a volt drop problem.

 

"That's a damn fine idea! Thanks for that. The amount I cut off could probably be the 2nd cables".  

 

 

If it is 'low voltage' then it maybe the battery is too low.

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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22 minutes ago, WotEver said:

Yes, but if you double the length of the cable then you have to double the size of it.
 

So if it comes with 1m of 2.5mm2 and you need 2m then it should all be 5mm2. If you need 3m then it should all be 8mm2 etc. 

That won’t work. See above for why. 

 

Gotcha. I see now. That may well be the problem. It's something I'll have to troubleshoot this weekend. Not sure if I can replace the supplied wire, but it's something to look at.

17 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

If I'm reading it correctly the supplied wiring was more than 2x longer than necessary so he cot it in half.

In theory being half the length it shouldn't have a volt drop problem.

 

If it is 'low voltage' then it maybe the battery is too low.

 

No, sorry, I'm adding wire to the supplied cable. I'm thinking of maybe halving (then using it to double up) the cable I added.

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4 minutes ago, ronnietucker said:

 

Gotcha. I see now. That may well be the problem. It's something I'll have to troubleshoot this weekend. Not sure if I can replace the supplied wire, but it's something to look at.

 

No, sorry, I'm adding wire to the supplied cable. I'm thinking of maybe halving (then using it to double up) the cable I added.

OK, my misunderstanding.

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Question, bearing in mind the video below shows a max 12a draw at start up would I be OK to use a Clipsal 12v 15a plug socket and plug? Or should I use something a bit beefier? 

 

Good Video showing current draw for various stages of 5kw heater. 

 

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