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Engine won't start (with video)


BoatNoob

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Some of that sounds like "machine gunning" where the solenoid is flying in and out of contact. Usual but not definite cause is are a discharged battery, loose connections or dirty connections. mainly on the main starter cables.

 

Could be other things but those are the first to check.

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15 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

Some of that sounds like "machine gunning" where the solenoid is flying in and out of contact. Usual but not definite cause is are a discharged battery, loose connections or dirty connections. mainly on the main starter cables.

 

Could be other things but those are the first to check.

Thanks for the reply.

How would the lack of electricity create the machine gun sound? 

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The solenoid pushes a pinion (cog) in to engage the starter, and always closes some contacts to power the starter motor itself.

The solenoid pulls in which switches on the starter motor, this takes a lot of current so the voltage falls further causing the solenoid to drop back out, this turns off the starter so the voltage rises and so the solenoid pulls back in   and so on and so on.

 

.................Dave

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As others have quite correctly said the solenoid is clicking in and out but also the battery has to have enough 'oomph' to send the pistons flying up the bores fast enough to compress the air, make it hot, and fire the fuel spray.

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That bit of rust on the heat exchanger suggests on ill fitting cap. I mention it because this very problem caused my starter motor to fail, they can't cope with water dripping regularly onto them. Your starter motor might not be directly below the heat exchanger, but thought it was worth mentioning. 

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8 hours ago, The Welsh Cruiser said:

That bit of rust on the heat exchanger suggests on ill fitting cap. I mention it because this very problem caused my starter motor to fail, they can't cope with water dripping regularly onto them. Your starter motor might not be directly below the heat exchanger, but thought it was worth mentioning. 

No the rust stain does not suggest that. It suggests the seal is in good condition as is the cap  but the OP is overfilling the header tank so excess coolant gets expelled via the overflow pipe (note where the rust spot is). Just stick a bit of tube on the bit of pipe and route into the bilge - not drip tray. But more t the point fill top, go for a good run and then allow the engine to cool right down. Now remove the cap when absolutely cold and note the coolant level. That is the correct topping up level.

 

Only if having done that it still leaks does it suggest the seal in the pressure cap is faulty.

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12 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

No the rust stain does not suggest that. It suggests the seal is in good condition as is the cap  but the OP is overfilling the header tank so excess coolant gets expelled via the overflow pipe (note where the rust spot is). Just stick a bit of tube on the bit of pipe and route into the bilge - not drip tray. But more t the point fill top, go for a good run and then allow the engine to cool right down. Now remove the cap when absolutely cold and note the coolant level. That is the correct topping up level.

 

Only if having done that it still leaks does it suggest the seal in the pressure cap is faulty.

OK I'm no expert, I'm sure you're right. In my case I have a header tank so the heat exchanger is maintained full to the brim. 

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5 minutes ago, The Welsh Cruiser said:

OK I'm no expert, I'm sure you're right. In my case I have a header tank so the heat exchanger is maintained full to the brim. 

 

That is definitely a problem as you describe but even so an overflow hose would have kept the leakage clear of the starter and it also suggest that the cap you had on was either the wrong pressure or the wrong cap with no "under cap" rubber seal.. 

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