Jump to content

Condensation.


Gerry underwood

Featured Posts

56 minutes ago, Dave123 said:

Tempted to try this as fed up of being late for work each morning from having to wipe around each metal frame before I leave ?.  Is there a type of film that works best? Would anyone mind posting a link? :)

Refer to post 12

Edited by rgreg
  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, Dave123 said:

Sorry! I missed that...And thanks for putting it up! :)

Presumably with metal frames you stick the tape onto the frame when dry?

No problem. Copied from post 22!

The film attaches to double sided tape around the outer wood frame, enclosing the metal frame inside. This results in zero condensation on both glass and metal frames.

 
  •  
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tips for removing Condensate .

 

1. Water traps positioned under bed in bed room and under steps 

2. Bungs in portholes hell stop it forming there 

3. incontenance pads in bilges work wonders  especially the big chair ones suck up tons of condensate . 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, luggsy said:

People keep saying ventilation keep windows open if you put plastic over your windows how do open them ? And aren't you shutting of your ventilation ?

You should have adequate ventilation without opening windows, I have porthole so non of them open

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, luggsy said:

People keep saying ventilation keep windows open if you put plastic over your windows how do open them ? And aren't you shutting of your ventilation ?

The BSS measures 'fixed' high and low level ventilation (so doesn't include windows).

Except on sea-going vessels the level of ventilation should not include windows.

 

8.9 Ventilation
8.9.1
Is the vessel provided with adequate fixed ventilation? 
Calculate the fixed ventilation requirements in accordance with
Appendix K.
Measure the total effective area of fixed ventilation.
Confirm that the total effective area of fixed ventilation (at least up to
the calculated fixed ventilation requirement) is divided as equally as
practicable between high and low level.
Fixed ventilation must be in
accordance with Appendix K.
NOTE – ventilators, doors, windows and hatches that can be closed without the use of tools must not be
included in the calculations as these are not considered fixed ventilation

NOTE – permanent and measurable gaps around doors and windows when the windows or doors are fully
closed can be taken into account as part of the fixed ventilation provision.
NOTE – in the event significant shortfalls in fixed ventilation are determined take the actions described in
Appendix A. A significant shortfall is:
where the total effective area of fixed ventilation is 50%, or less, of the calculated fixed ventilation
requirement; or,
 where the total effective area of fixed ventilation is less than the calculated fixed ventilation requirement
for appliances with continuous‐burning flames; or,
 where there is no high or no low‐level fixed ventilation.
8.9.2
Are warning notices displayed on sea‐going boats with closable ventilators? 
For vessels for which a fault is recorded at
8.9.1, identify seagoing boats with closable
ventilators.
Check for the presence of, and the wording on,
warning notices on or near to all non‐room
sealed fuel‐burning appliances.
On all seagoing boats with closable ventilators a warning
notice must displayed on or near all non‐room‐sealed fuel burning
appliances.
The warning notice must read: ‘WARNING – Open
ventilator(s) before use’, or equivalent wording.
NOTE – if a fault is recorded take the action described in Appendix A.
 

 

You can see an example of a 'sea-going warning notice behind the kettle.

 

 

Versatility-35-25.jpg

Edited by Alan de Enfield
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, luggsy said:

People keep saying ventilation keep windows open if you put plastic over your windows how do open them ? And aren't you shutting of your ventilation ?

I only use film on my 5 'bus' windows, leaving 4 opening portholes, hopper bathroom and sliding galley windows which provide more than enough additional ventilation when required (eg showers, cooking) although are closed most of the time in winter. I've even left the film on over a couple of summers without overheating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I'm thinking of trying the plastic film mentioned in several posts but am concerned that double sided tape is used to secure the film to the inner wooden frame....do you gave to remove the tape every year and isn't this very difficult and messy? I wonder if magnetic strips could be used somehow and left in situ for each winter ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Steviesax said:

I'm thinking of trying the plastic film mentioned in several posts but am concerned that double sided tape is used to secure the film to the inner wooden frame....do you gave to remove the tape every year and isn't this very difficult and messy? I wonder if magnetic strips could be used somehow and left in situ for each winter ?

 

Lots of people have used 3mm thick acrylic or perspex 'secondary glazing' which is held on with magnetic strips and removed each spring. Have a search in the archives for how to do it and suppliers. As long as you've got somewhere to store them over summer it's a better solution than plastic film.

Edited by blackrose
  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Steviesax said:

I'm thinking of trying the plastic film mentioned in several posts but am concerned that double sided tape is used to secure the film to the inner wooden frame....do you gave to remove the tape every year and isn't this very difficult and messy? I wonder if magnetic strips could be used somehow and left in situ for each winter ?

I use the Tesa Moll film kit and the tape peels off easily without trace. 

  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used tinted car window film on my little boat.The sort that has a sticky film backing that you are meant to stick directly to the glass.

But without peeling the backing off,I cut it to size and stuck it to the window frames with double sided tape.It gives an air gap of about 3/4"

It does not completely stop condensation on the inside of the outer glass,but does reduce it considerably,but won't eliminate it because there are drain slots in the bottom window frame,and outside air is admitted through these slots.The only way to eliminate interior condensation is vacuum sealed double glazing.

The window film does however prevent a great deal of heat loss and my boat is quite noticably warmer.

 

  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Mad Harold said:

I used tinted car window film on my little boat.The sort that has a sticky film backing that you are meant to stick directly to the glass.

But without peeling the backing off,I cut it to size and stuck it to the window frames with double sided tape.It gives an air gap of about 3/4"

It does not completely stop condensation on the inside of the outer glass,but does reduce it considerably,but won't eliminate it because there are drain slots in the bottom window frame,and outside air is admitted through these slots.The only way to eliminate interior condensation is vacuum sealed double glazing.

The window film does however prevent a great deal of heat loss and my boat is quite noticably warmer.

 

 

Thanks for your suggestions ...much appreciated 

10 hours ago, rgreg said:

I use the Tesa Moll film kit and the tape peels off easily without trace. 

Cheers ? 

12 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Lots of people have used 3mm thick acrylic or perspex 'secondary glazing' which is held on with magnetic strips and removed each spring. Have a search in the archives for how to do it and suppliers. As long as you've got somewhere to store them over summer it's a better solution than plastic film.

Thanks...I'll research further 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excessive condensation on windows as well as being caused by water leaks,cooking,drying clothes and poor ventilation,can also be as a result of the moisture on the inside of the window being unable to drain away.

As far as I am aware,all boat windows have drain holes or slots in the bottom frame to allow condensation to drain outside.

They do get blocked with muck and need poking out occasionally.

If the seal between window and frame has been replaced,It is necessary to ensure that the seal is not blocking the drain holes or slots.It is usually necessary to cut away a bit of the seal next to the drain holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 02/02/2021 at 07:17, blackrose said:

Lots of people have used 3mm thick acrylic or perspex 'secondary glazing' which is held on with magnetic strips and removed each spring.

 

I did one window like that in Nov 2021, using the LiteGlaze stuff from B&Q. They stock a white plastic two-part channel which can clip together to hold it.

😀 it almost completely stopped condensation on that window

🙄 it is bugly

🛌 I could fit it using holes & screws that were already there, so when I take it off there is no damage

😨 I would rather the excess humidity collected on the windows, where I can see it and remove it. If not, surely it will find some other place to condense...  where I can't see it until it has done more damage.

 

but actually I haven't bothered to remove it. This might point to false laziness being the reason I didn't do any other windows the same, rather than fear of where the humidity might settle instead.

 

 

On 02/02/2021 at 20:14, Mad Harold said:

As far as I am aware,all boat windows have drain holes or slots in the bottom frame to allow condensation to drain outside.

They do get blocked with muck and need poking out occasionally.

(and spiders, it's a great hidey hole)

I believe these vent slots were the entry point for the water vapour coming into the gap between glass and LiteGlaze, which then condensed on the glass and didn't budge. It wasn't enough to form running drops and collect, just a growing misting that needed the secondary taking off every ~6 weeks.

 

 

On 02/02/2021 at 20:14, Mad Harold said:

Excessive condensation on windows as well as being caused by water leaks,cooking,drying clothes and poor ventilation,can also be as a result of the moisture on the inside of the window being unable to drain away.

 

Dehumidifier is on my shopping list, along with more heat.

 

Also relevant: I had blocked my mushroom vents to retain more heat. There is a gas hob, but I switched off the gas supply - an induction hob is a much better tool for the job, while there is electricity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, wakey_wake said:

 

I did one window like that in Nov 2021, using the LiteGlaze stuff from B&Q. They stock a white plastic two-part channel which can clip together to hold it.

😀 it almost completely stopped condensation on that window

🙄 it is bugly

🛌 I could fit it using holes & screws that were already there, so when I take it off there is no damage

😨 I would rather the excess humidity collected on the windows, where I can see it and remove it. If not, surely it will find some other place to condense...  where I can't see it until it has done more damage.

 

but actually I haven't bothered to remove it. This might point to false laziness being the reason I didn't do any other windows the same, rather than fear of where the humidity might settle instead.

 

 

(and spiders, it's a great hidey hole)

I believe these vent slots were the entry point for the water vapour coming into the gap between glass and LiteGlaze, which then condensed on the glass and didn't budge. It wasn't enough to form running drops and collect, just a growing misting that needed the secondary taking off every ~6 weeks.

 

 

 

Dehumidifier is on my shopping list, along with more heat.

 

Also relevant: I had blocked my mushroom vents to retain more heat. There is a gas hob, but I switched off the gas supply - an induction hob is a much better tool for the job, while there is electricity.

All vents required by BSS are there for good reason and it does not make a lot of sense to block them (as I keep telling my crew!)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Mike Todd said:

Or is it RCD?  

 

 

There are only 4 mentions of ventilation in the RCD :

 

1) All watercraft shall be designed so as to minimise the risk of sinking. Where appropriate, particular attention shall be paid to: a) cockpits and wells, which should be self-draining or have other means of keeping water out of the watercraft interior; b) ventilation fittings; c) removal of water by pumps or other means.

 

2)Ventilation The engine compartment shall be ventilated. The ingress of water into the engine compartment through openings must be minimised.

 

3) (Battery Storage) Ventilation shall be provided to prevent the accumulation of explosive gases which might be emitted from batteries. Batteries shall be firmly secured and protected from ingress of water.

 

4) Gas system. Adequate ventilation must be provided to prevent hazards from leaks and products of combustion

 

 

There is no mention of 'general ventilation' but I'm led to believe that if it was compulsory it would be illegal (hence the BSS making it an advisory) you cannot stop anyone killing themselves, which is why suicide is legal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.