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Slim line kitchen base units


marybeth

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Hi

As im sure you are aware i am a novice about narrowboats so i am asking every question i can,even if i come across as dopey haha.
 

I have drawn up floor plans for my 50ft narrowboat and as it is only 1870mm wide i am fitting the kitchen with right side 600 deep base units and left side 500 deep.

Could anyone advise me where to get slimline base units from? Thanks

Mary :) 

kitchen NB.png

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13 minutes ago, marybeth said:

Could anyone advise me where to get slimline base units from? Thanks

I know someone who did similar and they just used wall unit cabinets and hung them so than when the worktop was fitted was at the same hight as the other cabinets and worktops. Wall cabinets are sometimes taller too, which can be handy. 

 

 

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Use flat-pack units and cut them to the desired depth before assembly. If you want to do it posh then router a new groove for the back panel, otherwise just screw the back panels to the back of the units. Don't cut the front off by mistake like I once did. 

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Many standard units have about 4 inches between the back board and the back of the carcass.  I cut the carcass down so that the back board was against the side of the hull lining. No reason why you couldn't cut them down further and use the hull lining as the back of the cupboard.

Edited by dor
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Howdens do some wall units which are 390mm deep. These can easily be adapted to be used as floor standing units. They also do some shallow floor units but these are only available with drawers.

A google search for slimline units produced these among others  https://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitchen-units/base/slimline/500mm-slimline-base-unit---drawerline---460mm-deep/wp13834/#.XbcmD6_grIU

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But what is going to happen to all that chipboard, is it just going to end up as a soggy heap on the floor with a metal drawer frame in it.?

They are only boxes, I made mine from 18mm ply and the back was angled the same as the hull size, I could also make them as high/low as I wanted by adjusting the depth of the plinth.

I have just yesterday fitted a new set of doors as the plastic coating had started to separate on some of them at the edge, Surprise surprise, the MDF was still as solid as it was 20 years ago

 

 

Edited by ditchcrawler
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35 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

But what is going to happen to all that chipboard, is it just going to end up as a soggy heap on the floor with a metal drawer frame in it.?

Try to be a bit more positive, DC. Think of it like a desiccant - it'll absorb moisture and keep the rest of the boat relatively dry for quite a while. There, now it's a good thing! :)

 

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1 hour ago, Tumshie said:

Can I just ask - when you have finished cutting down the oversized base units to the now slim sized base units how do you stop the laminate that's now no longer sealed from running amok and peeling off?

Most such units have some raw chipboard edges not covered by laminate anyway, even if you don't modify them.

 

I have just bought and am installing units from Wickes.  Certainly all the intermediate shelves are only covered in laminate on the leading visible edge.  I've not found this a problem on boats in the past, so wonder if any risk is overstated?

 

 

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2 hours ago, stegra said:

Use flat-pack units and cut them to the desired depth before assembly. If you want to do it posh then router a new groove for the back panel, otherwise just screw the back panels to the back of the units. Don't cut the front off by mistake like I once did. 

On the Wickes units I have been building over the last few days, cutting 10 cms off the depth would almost certainly resulted in cutting away some of te places where they are ointed with dowels and those "cam" clamps.

You would need to check out very thoroughly the units you intend to modify to see exactly what would no longer be  part of them if you cut a full 10cms off.

 

Obviously anything that had fancy drawers couldn't be so easily tackled.  There is no easy way you could reduce the depth of the drawers on the units I have just bought.  They are a highly bespoke design with metal sides designed to clip and lock together, and there is an awful lot of bits of the closing mechanism mbedded within the drawer sides.

2 hours ago, dor said:

Many standard units have about 4 inches between the back board and the back of the carcass.  I cut the carcass down so that the back board was against the side of the hull lining. No reason why you couldn't cut them down further and use the hull lining as the back of the cupboard.

I agree, although what I have just bought has a void at te back of only about 65mm.

If you cut the carcasses on both sides of the boat, you would presumably need to take a siilar amount off all worktops.  That might significantly limit what simk/drainers you could use, and probably rule out most inset hobs, I would have thought?

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On 28/10/2019 at 18:19, ditchcrawler said:

They are only boxes, I made mine from 18mm ply and the back was angled the same as the hull size, I could also make them as high/low as I wanted by adjusting the depth of the plinth.

As Brian says, I bought a single carcass from B&Q and used it as a template to base my units on and made all of the units from 18mm ply

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37 minutes ago, steve hayes said:

As Brian says, I bought a single carcass from B&Q and used it as a template to base my units on and made all of the units from 18mm ply

When I did mine it was cheaper to buy the carcass drawers doors etc and not use the carcasses at all, I gave them away.

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