pluto83 Posted October 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 sounds like a good tip, "so crank it by shorting the starter and forces it out?" Its a manky engine but for 99p and full tank of diesel suppose I can't be too fussy. I need to start a new post tomorrow, about where the relay and electrical parts need to be placed. The guy that started it for me, stripped it down too just a ignition switch, battery's and removed the lister panel, and hours bit. ASAP is on my doorstep lucky enough, I was thinking they had it in stock today, but found out they didn't have to wait till it turns up in store Monday. Cheeky gits, so for next day delivery they would of added 7.95 plus an extra 2 vat for a little piece of rubber, so I'm waiting on the part now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted October 24, 2019 Report Share Posted October 24, 2019 16 minutes ago, pluto83 said: sounds like a good tip, "so crank it by shorting the starter and forces it out?" Its a manky engine but for 99p and full tank of diesel suppose I can't be too fussy. I need to start a new post tomorrow, about where the relay and electrical parts need to be placed. The guy that started it for me, stripped it down too just a ignition switch, battery's and removed the lister panel, and hours bit. ASAP is on my doorstep lucky enough, I was thinking they had it in stock today, but found out they didn't have to wait till it turns up in store Monday. Cheeky gits, so for next day delivery they would of added 7.95 plus an extra 2 vat for a little piece of rubber, so I'm waiting on the part now. I am just down the road as well and always pick my bits up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 10 hours ago, pluto83 said: Its a manky engine but for 99p and full tank of diesel suppose I can't be too fussy. Ah, that explains a devil of a lot! Well, first things first but, once you've got over this hurdle (or even whilst you're awaiting parts), get stuck in and give the engine and the bilge a good clean up. Thereafter, keep it as best you can and stick your head down there every day - it will pay dividends. For one thing, you'll see your future leaks earlier before they turn catastrophic. Fingers crossed for Monday - good luck with it Pluto! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pluto83 Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 Thanks for all your help, I put it off until today. Seems to be no longer leaking, and I can't see why it was leaking as the older o ring was still in one piece. It came out half at first, but complete. The ball bearing did drop, but with a bit of fishing around with my hand, I finally found it, and in quite good condition. I changed the oil, but trying to read the dipstick is near impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 16 minutes ago, pluto83 said: I changed the oil, but trying to read the dipstick is near impossible. Notoriously so. The usual trick is to lay the dipstick on some kitchen paper or similar and read it by the damp patch, which is something I'm well familiar with, but even then I struggle with my PRM 150 dipstick. Some don't have this issue, but a search here will reveal plenty of us having similar difficulties. Perseverance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boater Sam Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 35 minutes ago, pluto83 said: trying to read the dipstick is near impossible. The depth of the thread is the same as the difference between the 2 marks. So don't screw it in when checking, just fill to the lower mark. I have polished mine to a shine, it makes it easier. The kitchen towel idea is a good one, blue tissue is better. A line of blue chalk on the stick helps but wipe it off before screwing it in as chalk is minutely abrasive. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psychalist Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 57 minutes ago, pluto83 said: Thanks for all your help, I put it off until today. Seems to be no longer leaking, and I can't see why it was leaking as the older o ring was still in one piece. It came out half at first, but complete. The ball bearing did drop, but with a bit of fishing around with my hand, I finally found it, and in quite good condition. I changed the oil, but trying to read the dipstick is near impossible. The reason may not be obvious as the tolerance is quite small. If the selector shaft pushes over in one direction or another, it can force a tiny gap on a harder worn complete older o ring enough to cause the leak. If you've changed the gear cable recently that could be a possibility. The extent between forward and reverse can be too large. Most controllers have two stops to mount the cable at the remote end from the gearbox so it's worth checking the selector position in both modes to see if it is beyond the box's natural detente positions. I reckon that was the issue with mine. Fine for 20yrs and then a 3rd party changed the cable - shortly afterwards, leaking oil. Could be wrong but..who knows. /G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 2 minutes ago, Psychalist said: The reason may not be obvious as the tolerance is quite small. If the selector shaft pushes over in one direction or another, it can force a tiny gap on a harder worn complete older o ring enough to cause the leak. If you've changed the gear cable recently that could be a possibility. The extent between forward and reverse can be too large. Most controllers have two stops to mount the cable at the remote end from the gearbox so it's worth checking the selector position in both modes to see if it is beyond the box's natural detente positions. I reckon that was the issue with mine. Fine for 20yrs and then a 3rd party changed the cable - shortly afterwards, leaking oil. Could be wrong but..who knows. /G Absolutely. Both tyhrottle and gear caables shoudl be adjusted so there is no more force in the cables when it ahead or astern. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pluto83 Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 2 hours ago, Sea Dog said: Notoriously so. The usual trick is to lay the dipstick on some kitchen paper or similar and read it by the damp patch, which is something I'm well familiar with, but even then I struggle with my PRM 150 dipstick. Some don't have this issue, but a search here will reveal plenty of us having similar difficulties. Perseverance! Thanks for the tip, my cuff on my hoodie is ruined, I was very persistent. I read up earlier that the back of your hand is another one. I was thinking when I was trying earlier, that a metal kebab stick marked engraved in where the levels would be worth a shot. Even thought about getting a new one, I'm happy its a common problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pluto83 Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 1 hour ago, Psychalist said: The reason may not be obvious as the tolerance is quite small. If the selector shaft pushes over in one direction or another, it can force a tiny gap on a harder worn complete older o ring enough to cause the leak. If you've changed the gear cable recently that could be a possibility. The extent between forward and reverse can be too large. Most controllers have two stops to mount the cable at the remote end from the gearbox so it's worth checking the selector position in both modes to see if it is beyond the box's natural detente positions. I reckon that was the issue with mine. Fine for 20yrs and then a 3rd party changed the cable - shortly afterwards, leaking oil. Could be wrong but..who knows. /G I think it was because I was quite aggressive testing the morse control the other day, but its worth double checking now I understand a little bit more. The ring nut at the back I've found out can change gear, not just the control. Cheers for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyboy Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 6 minutes ago, pluto83 said: Thanks for the tip, my cuff on my hoodie is ruined, I was very persistent. I read up earlier that the back of your hand is another one. I was thinking when I was trying earlier, that a metal kebab stick marked engraved in where the levels would be worth a shot. Even thought about getting a new one, I'm happy its a common problem. Filing a flat on the dipstick with a course file works quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pluto83 Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 On 24/10/2019 at 20:12, Iain_S said: We had that problem once (quite a few years ago now!) Offending new ring, which had come from a box of assorted "O" rings, was replaced by one with a slightly section : problem solved Would be interesting to see if a ring from PRM was round or square section! Its round, I kept it, as it looks okay to me still. think better cut my nails upon looking at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) 9 hours ago, pluto83 said: Its round, I kept it, as it looks okay to me still. think better cut my nails upon looking at it. use 200 grit sandpaper, add green veg and steak to your diet and drink half a pint of milk every day ? Edited October 30, 2019 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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