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Bukh DV36 electric problem


Clodi

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Yesterday after many hours of trouble-free cruising the motor refused to stop, a quick investigation found one of the wires had parted company with it's crimped connector. I tried pocking the wire back in but didn't work so I stopped the engine manually.

I've now put a nice new connector in place & cleaned all the other connectors including the push in plugs mounted on the engine.

When I turn the key all the lights come on but nothing happens. I've checked the starter battery seems OK so I tried using a portable jump start battery, still nothing. Apart from cleaning/checking all the various plugs what else should I try? 

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Yep I've got the lot. I've decided to stop-up for the day and Im checking/renewing all the connectors and the wires themselves working on the theory that if one failed they're probably all dodgy 

 

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13 minutes ago, Clodi said:

Yep I've got the lot. I've decided to stop-up for the day and Im checking/renewing all the connectors and the wires themselves working on the theory that if one failed they're probably all dodgy 

 

 

 

Ok, find the starter motor. There will probably be a great big fat cable attached to it and a little thin wire too. Measure the voltage between the fat wire terminal and the starter motor casing. It should be 12.5Vdc approx. 

 

Then get a lovely assistant to turn the start key to the 'cranking' position and measure the voltage between the thin wire and the start motor casing. Tell us the result. 

 

 

 

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48 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

 

Ok, find the starter motor. There will probably be a great big fat cable attached to it and a little thin wire too. Measure the voltage between the fat wire terminal and the starter motor casing. It should be 12.5Vdc approx. 

 

Then get a lovely assistant to turn the start key to the 'cranking' position and measure the voltage between the thin wire and the start motor casing. Tell us the result. 

 

 

 

Testing with the wires still connected. Important

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Unfortunately I am solo at the moment as my wife is busy working. I've actually narrowed it down to a knackered stop solanoid sso at the moment I'll have to turn it off manually for the rest of this trip. Also the ignition switch itself is a bit sus so I'm in the market now for a BUKH Stop Solenoid & replacement ignition switch. Hopefully there's an equivalent as Bukh prices are off the scale.unbelievable £300 eeeeeek

Edited by Clodi
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1 hour ago, Clodi said:

Unfortunately I am solo at the moment as my wife is busy working. I've actually narrowed it down to a knackered stop solanoid sso at the moment I'll have to turn it off manually for the rest of this trip. Also the ignition switch itself is a bit sus so I'm in the market now for a BUKH Stop Solenoid & replacement ignition switch. Hopefully there's an equivalent as Bukh prices are off the scale.unbelievable £300 eeeeeek

Alternatively, now might be the time to go to a manual pull cable stop. use something like a bike brake cable and outer, or old fashioned car choke cable through to the control panel, with a pull knob there. Attach the other end to the stop lever on the injection pump. No more electrical worries and save £290 of your £300.

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My DV36 has  Bosch rotary pump with a screw in energise to run solenoid so a parted wire should stop the engine, not prevent it stopping. I suspect something else may be wrong. Regrettably ably my manual is with the boat ready for the new owners so I cant look it all up.

 

 

 Please ignore - complete ollox & brain fart. Its energise to stop so symptom is perfectly consistent with broken wire.

 

Not sure how a broken stop wire could stop the tarter energising though. Try 12V direct to the single tin cable connection on the starter and see if it then starts  If yes the problem is between battery ignition switch, & starter small terminal. If no clean all the battery terminals and make sure the engine negative bond is in good order.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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Well I spent the day cleaning, testing and renewing all the connectors I can find. I've got a handy bit of bailing twine attached to tug when I want the engine stopped. I cannot get over the price of replacement so a 'proper job' with an old choke cable is defiantly the answer.

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Are you sure its a DV36 because there is no way you can manually operate the stop solenoid. May be early or later ones ha d a different injector pump on them but I doubt it.

 

If you can manually operate it then that's fine and a simple reliable fix. How many cylinders does it have, I am wondering if you have one of the smaller Bukhs because they had /have inline pumps with an external stop control. Do you have a photo so I can see the engine and maybe learn something.

 

Cheers

 

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12 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Are you sure its a DV36 because there is no way you can manually operate the stop solenoid. May be early or later ones ha d a different injector pump on them but I doubt it.

 

If you can manually operate it then that's fine and a simple reliable fix. How many cylinders does it have, I am wondering if you have one of the smaller Bukhs because they had /have inline pumps with an external stop control. Do you have a photo so I can see the engine and maybe learn something.

 

Chee

Hi Tony yep it' definitely DV36ME, I'm afraid I've lost my phone in the cut but I'll see if I can dig some out . It's 3 cylinder and shows the 'stop-lever' in the  Bukh Workshop Manual DV36/48 section H  label 13. The top solenoid is fitted just forward of the stop-lever. Funnily enough, this Workshop Manual does not show the solenoid but my other Bukh manual covering all the range DV10-48 does. I'm just happy it's there TBH

Edited by Clodi
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Thanks Clodi, 3 cylinders defiantly a DV36 or if it has a turbo DV48. My injector pump does not have a stop lever at all and I always worried bout how to get over a failed stop solenoid. don't worry about the photo because of the number of cylinders - something more for me to remember.

 

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