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Short term Winterisation...


robtheplod

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Hi All

 

I've read lots of threads about long term winterisation and on these I'm building a way we can do this short term, whilst keeping our boat 'ready to go' (or as ready as practical) when we visit. She's in a marina, on 24/7 shoreline electric and we'd leave her for a maximum of 2 or 3 weeks, maybe a month.

 

My initial thoughts are:

 

  • Leave diesel tank FULL
  • Check antifreeze in heating and engine.
  • Run main water tank down as much as possible
  • Switch off water at stopcock
  • Open all taps to drain, inc shower (put shower head on floor)
  • Run shower tray whale gulper dry
  • Switch off pumps
  • Close all windows
  • Pull mattress/soft furnishings away from wall (avoid any drips from window)
  • Ensure shoreline connected and batteries are on charge
  • Plug in oil radiator on low heat
  • Turn off gas

 

In extreme cold is there any merit in not draining the hot water but running immersion on low using timer?  This would keep the calorifier happy but wary with all pumps off cold water couldn't be replaced in it which isn't a good idea... The calorifier is in a cupboard in the bedroom.

 

We have a pumpout arrangement so wondering what I'd need to keep in mind with this? Tempted to suggest pouring in a small amount of antifreeze in the loo or possibly salt it???  good/bad idea??

 

Any tweaks or useful additions/comments would be very welcomed so I can get this sorted before the cold snaps occur... thanks!!!

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This is what I do, if I'm going to be away for a while in winter. All the draining down of water, pumps, loo etc. is only going to be important if the temperature goes seriously below zero for several days. You should get advanced warning of this at least a week before it happens, if you are keeping an eye on the forecast. If you have a shoreline and oil filled radiator, which can run at 2kW, then that can keep a typical NB cabin above freezing if it is very cold outside. Not comfortable to live on, which needs the 4 to 5kW of a stove, or Webasto/Ebersplutter, but that isn't the aim here.

One potential risk is having the shore power trip off, or deliberately disconnected while you are away. Depending on how it is set up, then some inverters can happily drain the batteries. I know Victron combis have a setting that will not run the inverter, if the mains input is lost.

If you are going to be away for weeks, abroad say, with no chance to get to the boat if a cold snap is coming, then the full drain down is a good idea and I have done that before now. If there is someone local who knows enough about boats that can keep an eye on things, then that is a load off your mind.

 

Storing the mattress upright will get air to both sides and prevent damp/mould. I'd add, chock internal doors open to let warm air circulate from the oil filled rad. Prevents cold spots and condensation. Similarly, leaving cupboard doors open, especially any with clothes, bedding inside.

 

Other than that, your list of fuel tank full, pumps off, taps closed, etc. is good.

 

Jen

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thanks for the replies

 

Re shoreline this is a weak spot. I do have a 'blink' camera onboard which is good for me to view the cabin from my phone and it also has a temperature gauge/alert in it. I don't really have any 240v appliances etc so don't really use the invertor.

 

This will be our first winter with our boat (previously had a shareboat that was always on the move so no issue) so maybe I'm being overly cautious, but just keen to be as proactive as possible and keep problems to a minimum.

 

Generally speaking how cold does it have to be before seasoned boaters start to get concerned?

 

rob

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52 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Hi All

 

I've read lots of threads about long term winterisation and on these I'm building a way we can do this short term, whilst keeping our boat 'ready to go' (or as ready as practical) when we visit. She's in a marina, on 24/7 shoreline electric and we'd leave her for a maximum of 2 or 3 weeks, maybe a month.

 

My initial thoughts are:

 

  • Leave diesel tank FULL
  • Check antifreeze in heating and engine.
  • Run main water tank down as much as possible
  • Switch off water at stopcock
  • Open all taps to drain, inc shower (put shower head on floor)
  • Run shower tray whale gulper dry
  • Switch off pumps
  • Close all windows
  • Pull mattress/soft furnishings away from wall (avoid any drips from window)
  • Ensure shoreline connected and batteries are on charge
  • Plug in oil radiator on low heat
  • Turn off gas

 

In extreme cold is there any merit in not draining the hot water but running immersion on low using timer?  This would keep the calorifier happy but wary with all pumps off cold water couldn't be replaced in it which isn't a good idea... The calorifier is in a cupboard in the bedroom.

 

We have a pumpout arrangement so wondering what I'd need to keep in mind with this? Tempted to suggest pouring in a small amount of antifreeze in the loo or possibly salt it???  good/bad idea??

 

Any tweaks or useful additions/comments would be very welcomed so I can get this sorted before the cold snaps occur... thanks!!!

 

I do all of the above, plus put a Meaco 8DDL dehumidifier on board and block all high and low level vents (to stop it trying to dehumidify the world). This prevents doors swelling with damp and curtains going mouldy.

 

If not using a dehumidifier then leave windows and vents open to provide adequate ventilation.

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There are several different risks that you are trying to mitigate, though the same action can help reduce more than one risk.

 

High relative humidity, resulting in stuff getting damp, swelling, mouldy and generally yuck. Mitigated by increasing the temperature, which reduces relative humidity and the risk of condensation on cold surfaces, like windows, exterior walls and the insides of cupboards and allowing air to circulate. Alternatively, @cuthound's approach of sealing the vents and using a dehumidifier. Both need shore power. If shore power fails, then having plenty of air circulation in a cold boat is better than having no circulation.

 

Stuff failing. Either through cold, or just because you aren't there and it is the most awkward time and it will be weeks before you find out. So, shutting off water cocks, pumps, circuits, gas etc. Possibly draining down the water.

 

Weather from Siberia. Can be mitigated with a heater, but if the heater fails, then you are stuffed. Alternatively, drain everything down, including the cauliflower and the insides of pumps and shower mixers. Full winterisation to leave for weeks/months.

 

Jen

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The original list is basically what I do.  The only additional thing that I do is to try and get most of the water out of the pipes, by opening the bath taps (they are lowest) and then blowing into the kitchen mixer on both hot and cold and the water comes out of the bath taps.  
 

In 10 years, fingers crossed/touching wood etc, not had any issues.

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1 hour ago, Ray T said:

I also put above antifreeze in any U bends on the boat.

I don't have any U bends

1 hour ago, john6767 said:

The original list is basically what I do.  The only additional thing that I do is to try and get most of the water out of the pipes, by opening the bath taps (they are lowest) and then blowing into the kitchen mixer on both hot and cold and the water comes out of the bath taps.  
 

In 10 years, fingers crossed/touching wood etc, not had any issues.

I use the water pump to do that pumping air. Remove the pump inlet filter, close all taps and run pump, after several minutes I go round and open and close each tap in turn 

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7 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I don't have any U bends

I use the water pump to do that pumping air. Remove the pump inlet filter, close all taps and run pump, after several minutes I go round and open and close each tap in turn 

Yep I get that will achieve the same thing, personally I prefer not to break into a system if I don't have to, for the sake of 30 seconds of blowing down the tap.

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The only loss I have had to frost was a shower head.

It was very cold with 4 inches of ice on the marina.

I do drain off the domestic water as far as sensibly possible.  I must have missed the shower head that year.

 

 

I use a tube heater near the engine on a thermostat.  Another heater on thermostat near the calorifier.  Both set to switch at about 5 degrees. In recent years they have not been required much if at all.

 

I use a dehumidifier .. which is the biggest cost on electricity but it keeps all upholstery dry . Probably start that in Novermber.

 

I am not sure diesel tank full is best as there is probably  biofuel in it  which may

deteriorate.   I am on half  a tank at the moment.

 

The boat can be ready to go after removing the engine bay heater and filling the water tank .

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4 minutes ago, MartynG said:

 

 

The boat can be ready to go after removing the engine bay heater and filling the water tank .

I leave the cold water storage tank three quarters full so I have enough water onboard to fill the system incase the marina has turned the water off.

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6 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I leave the cold water storage tank three quarters full so I have enough water onboard to fill the system incase the marina has turned the water off.

Not concerned about frost?

 

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Just now, MartynG said:

Not concerned about frost?

 

Yes but leave lots of ullage (is that the right word.

31 minutes ago, john6767 said:

Yep I get that will achieve the same thing, personally I prefer not to break into a system if I don't have to, for the sake of 30 seconds of blowing down the tap.

I like to ensure the pump is empty

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8 hours ago, MartynG said:

Not concerned about frost?

 

Also, a more full water tank will take longer to cool down, then freeze than a near empty one. In a long cold snap the tank will freeze, but if it just goes below zero overnight, or a day or so, then the tank will stay closer to the average, rather than dropping to the lowest overnight temperature. Leaving some space for ice expansion is good.

 

Jen

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9 hours ago, MartynG said:

The only loss I have had to frost was a shower head.

It was very cold with 4 inches of ice on the marina.

I do drain off the domestic water as far as sensibly possible.  I must have missed the shower head that year.

 

 

I use a tube heater near the engine on a thermostat.  Another heater on thermostat near the calorifier.  Both set to switch at about 5 degrees. In recent years they have not been required much if at all.

 

I use a dehumidifier .. which is the biggest cost on electricity but it keeps all upholstery dry . Probably start that in Novermber.

 

I am not sure diesel tank full is best as there is probably  biofuel in it  which may

deteriorate.   I am on half  a tank at the moment.

 

The boat can be ready to go after removing the engine bay heater and filling the water tank .

Like you, my winterisation is heavily influenced by my requirement to use the boat frequently in winter, so it's a compromise between the risk and minimising the faff.  Our routines are undoubtedly similar, where we differ (for interest only, rather than to knock your own plan) is as follows:

 

My shower head goes in the sink where it drains overboard (water seems to lurk in them) whilst the end of the hose sits in the shower drain. 

 

I have a max/min thermometer recording the engine space and the control room above in my trad stern - the lower space is always kept warmer  by the water around it, rarely dipping below zero. Antifreeze protects the engine and diesel heater, so I don't think there's much of a threat down there.

 

I do have a tube heater and a thermostat in the cauliflower 'ole, which I used one year but, having managed for several winters before without it, I wasn't sure it was more than a comfort blanket so I stopped using it.

 

I do like the dehumidifier idea, but don't get any damp upholstery so never went that way. Sealing the boat and using one is undoubtedly attractive if there's a reliable electricity supply.

 

I think the diesel tank brimmed idea has the advantage of stemming condensation - you really don't need that water in your diesel, particularly when there's an element of biofuel in there. I've think that the bigger risk, so I top up more frequently in winter.

 

 

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