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Plumbing a washing machine


Col_T

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I'm thinking about installing a washing machine on the boat. The thought is to put it in the cupboard under the sink, so electrical and water supplies will be good and close. The question is about the discharge pipe outlet, and my thought is to connect this to the sink waste outlet, so that I don't need to put a separate hole in the hull, and put a non-return valve between the sink plug and the washing machine connection.

 

Is there a better way of doing this?

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10 minutes ago, Col_T said:

I'm thinking about installing a washing machine on the boat. The thought is to put it in the cupboard under the sink, so electrical and water supplies will be good and close. The question is about the discharge pipe outlet, and my thought is to connect this to the sink waste outlet, so that I don't need to put a separate hole in the hull, and put a non-return valve between the sink plug and the washing machine connection.

 

Is there a better way of doing this?

I have done it this way, I have also just put the pipe over the sink edge when running. However the best way by far is to simply make a hole in the hull and fit a permenant connection.

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Lots of (probably most) houses have the washing machine waste plumbed into the sink waste without a non-return valve. The hose should loop up higher than the sink's water level to prevent the dishwater flowing into the washing machine. I used to have one that didn't and it flooded the kitchen a couple of times when I opened the washer door. The water from the washer might flow into the sink a little, which isn't really a problem apart from when it pushes the plug out and you lose a full sink of hot water. 

Edited by stegra
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Use to repair washing machines as part of a business. Made money out of non-return valve blocking with "fluff" etc and the machine not functioning correctly by not pumping out. So if fitted just check. Fitted mine with dedicated through hull outlet.

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I've never understood the reason for tapping into an existing drain pipe just to avoid drilling a hole and putting in a skin fitting. It's really not that difficult. If it's for a washing machine or a shower waste pump then you can have the skin fitting as high above the waterline as you want within practical limits. If it's for a gravity drained sink then you need to be a bit more careful and work out how high it can go while still draining.

14 hours ago, doratheexplorer said:

Mine goes to the sink outlet and I have no non return valve.  I've never had water emptying from the sink to the washing machine.  Must be just lucky.

It will go to the washing machine but it won't go into the drum and you won't see it as it can't get past the pump.

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2 hours ago, blackrose said:

I've never understood the reason for tapping into an existing drain pipe just to avoid drilling a hole and putting in a skin fitting. It's really not that difficult. If it's for a washing machine or a shower waste pump then you can have the skin fitting as high above the waterline as you want within practical limits. If it's for a gravity drained sink then you need to be a bit more careful and work out how high it can go while still draining.

It will go to the washing machine but it won't go into the drum and you won't see it as it can't get past the pump.

I don't own a drill.  I'm not even sure what a skin fitting is?  Is it something to do with skin-tight jeans?

 

When I empty the sink, I see lots of water pouring out, that's good enough for me.

 

Putting a new fitting under the sink for the washing machine took me about 20 minutes to do.

 

If any stray bits of water go down the pipe but can't get past the pump, what's the downside to what I've done?

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9 minutes ago, doratheexplorer said:

don't own a drill.  I'm not even sure what a skin fitting is?  Is it something to do with skin-tight jeans?

 

No, it's like when Mrs Rusty had her nose pierced and a stud fitted. 

Edited by rusty69
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Just now, doratheexplorer said:

I get it now.

 

Actually I do own a drill, but I don't think it works and I'm pretty sure it's not able to drill through my boat anyway.

Our machine hasn't got a dedicated fitting either. I hate drilling holes in boats, though above the waterline is easier than below unless you have a waterproof drill. A good quality hole saw will get through 6mm steel in minutes, but it is preferable that the drill actually works. 

 

Look in your backpack, you may have a spare. 

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29 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Our machine hasn't got a dedicated fitting either. I hate drilling holes in boats, though above the waterline is easier than below unless you have a waterproof drill. A good quality hole saw will get through 6mm steel in minutes, but it is preferable that the drill actually works. 

 

Look in your backpack, you may have a spare. 

Yes!  I hate the idea of unnecessary holes in boats too.  It's not right!  There's a perfectly useable hole already, so why not use it? 

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Because as others have said, a dedicated skin fitting is definitely the best option so it's not an unnecessary hole. Tapping into pipes can work but it's more likely to clog depending on exactly how it's done. There's no downside to what you've done until it goes wrong. Anyway, it's your boat so dowhatchawant. 

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Obviously a dedicated skin fitting is a valid way of doing it. However there is no downside to connecting the washer outlet to the existing sink drain hole provided it’s done correctly - and primarily this means taking a loop of the washer drain hose right to the top of the underside of the worktop. No 1-way valve required. Ours is fitted like this and it hasn’t caused a hint of a problem in 8 years.

 

So by all means fit a separate drain hole, but you will be no better off for that work.

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