Electrical problem

[WotEver]

Great news

 

I’d have lost my bet then...

 

Well done Bex!

[Tony Brooks]

45 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:

Scotchloks! Horrible things. Blue one where it should have been red?

Agreed - first rate method of letting damp into a very small area of connection.

 

I would rather have chock blocks with or without ferals than those but obviously better with ferals.

 

If you have decent crimping tool I would suggest a heat shrink adhesive butt  inline connector for the joint behind the fridge and for other joints where you may need to change parts  a fully insulated crimp male and female heat shrink adhesive 6mm blades. However this dies  rely upon you getting the right size crimps for the cable and a really good crimping tool.

 

 

[WotEver]

55 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:

Scotchloks! Horrible things. Blue one where it should have been red?

Even if it was pink with purple spots it wants throwing in the cut

[The Welsh Cruiser]

What's the consensus on the plastic connecters you buy in a strip that secure the wires with small screws? I was thinking of replacing the scotchloks with these.

[Tony Brooks]

7 minutes ago, The Welsh Cruiser said:

What's the consensus on the plastic connecters you buy in a strip that secure the wires with small screws? I was thinking of replacing the scotchloks with these.

I think you might mean what many call chock block connectors where you get a strip and cut however many off you need. Although not the best they are in my view superior to Scotchlocs but you should really put ferrals on the bared end of the cable. They do  let damp into the joint but many small 12V electrical lamps use them (and some mains ones as well).

[frahkn]

14 minutes ago, The Welsh Cruiser said:

What's the consensus on the plastic connecters you buy in a strip that secure the wires with small screws? I was thinking of replacing the scotchloks with these.

I use these quite a lot, probably too often for some peoples taste but I always use them with bootlace ferules to strengthen the connection.

 

Too slow, Tony got in first!

Edited October 1, 2019 by frahkn

[Tony Brooks]

1 minute ago, frahkn said:

I use these quite a lot, probably too often for some peoples taste but I always use them with bootlace ferules to strengthen the connection.

Thanks for the correct spelling of ferules - I knew it was wrong but could not find it in the online dictionary.

[ditchcrawler]

A good result.

 

[ditchcrawler]

I once had someone order those Offshore, straight in the bin. I have just tried Wago connectors  

[Tash and Bex]

1 hour ago, Sir Nibble said:

Scotchloks! Horrible things. Blue one where it should have been red?

yup

 

though "should have been red" should read "should have been burned and cast into the flaming cauldron of hades"

 

[Chewbacka]

16 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I once had someone order those Offshore, straight in the bin. I have just tried Wago connectors  

I like wago connectors, if you get them with more ports than you need, you can poke your multimeter probe in the unused one, makes fault finding easier.  But if in an inaccessible location, sealed crimps are best.

Toolstation sell em

https://www.toolstation.com/spring-lever-connectors/p68406

[WotEver]

3 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

I like wago connectors

Me too. I’ve even been known to use Posi-tap connectors when I’ve had to splice into an existing cable; they’re not at all bad. However for extending a cable that doesn’t need to be undone then an adhesive lined heat shrink butt crimp is the only proper way. 

[rusty69]

2 hours ago, WotEver said:

Me too. I’ve even been known to use Posi-tap connectors when I’ve had to splice into an existing cable; they’re not at all bad. However for extending a cable that doesn’t need to be undone then an adhesive lined heat shrink butt crimp is the only proper way. 

I have used this method a few times,think someone posted it on here last year.I stuck a bit of heat shrink tubing over the top.

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

27 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I have used this method a few times,think someone posted it on here last year.I stuck a bit of heat shrink tubing over the top.

 

 

I thought and am more than happy to be corrected that soldered joints were a no no. Don't ask me where I got that idea as I cant remember, maybe an old BSS when they band solid cables for a while . I have done many a T joint in 7/.029 and solder wrapped in self amalgamating tale or even the old black cotton insulating tape

[jonathanA]

2 hours ago, Chewbacka said:

I like wago connectors, if you get them with more ports than you need, you can poke your multimeter probe in the unused one, makes fault finding easier.  But if in an inaccessible location, sealed crimps are best.

Toolstation sell em

https://www.toolstation.com/spring-lever-connectors/p68406

I think you will find they have a built in test point so you don’t need to have a spare port to be able to your test probe on them.  

 

I think the 221 version are great so easy to    Use and infinitely better than choc blocks  but are limited to the size of wire they will accept upto 4mm max so may limit their use on the boat.

 

 

[rusty69]

25 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I thought and am more than happy to be corrected that soldered joints were a no no. Don't ask me where I got that idea as I cant remember, maybe an old BSS when they band solid cables for a while . I have done many a T joint in 7/.029 and solder wrapped in self amalgamating tale or even the old black cotton insulating tape

Dunno.You are probably right. Best ignore that then.

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

8 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Dunno.You are probably right. Best ignore that then.

 

 

I am not always right, just sometimes

[jonathanA]

Bss doesn’t ban soldered joints for electrics anymore than it bans solid t&e for mains wiring for leisure boats as far as I know.  The cwf equivalent of an urban myth....

 

Some people say that soldering or tinning the ends of flex before fitting in a screw type connection causes a potential for the cable to fracture at that point and ferrules should be used in such cases. 

 

 

Solid t&e is not recommended by the bss but is not a fail

Edited October 1, 2019 by jonathanA
Before the smart arses jump in

[Alan de Enfield]

2 minutes ago, jonathanA said:

Bss doesn’t ban soldered joints for electrics anymore than it bans solid t&e for mains wiring for leisure boats as far as I know.  The cwf equivalent of an urban myth....

 

Some people say that soldering or tinning the ends of flex before fitting in a screw type connection causes a potential for the cable to fracture at that point and ferrules should be used in such cases. 

 

 

Yes - not a BSS requirement but it is an RCD requirement, so any boat built since 1998 should be compliant, hence the BSS don't need worry about it.

[Sir Nibble]

Any connection is only as good as the person making it and soldering requires some degree of skill. There's nothing inherently wrong with solder, my soldering is flying around in airliners. Ever seen a 1mm cable doubled over to fit a blue crimp closed with a pound shop tool? Better than a proper solder joint is it?

[WotEver]

14 hours ago, Sir Nibble said:

Any connection is only as good as the person making it

Very true, that.