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Puff Along

Heater Glow Plug Removal

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Getting there!! [I Think] Diesel Bob UK has refurbed my Rare Injection Pump My Rare Injectors, [which other C/World user had pointed that out already]he has got me 4 new glow plugs ,All Being Overnighted to me all for £420 including Vat.......Which seems to be cheap.Great Service.....Anyway I got 3 of the 4 glow plugs out but #4 is a **************** if you get my meaning......#I was easiest #2 slightly harder #3 was tuff but #4 wont budge out of it's seating.......It is totally unscrewed but carbon holding it back........Any ideas or hacks ......,I don't won't to break it.I have a video if it will upload.  https://youtu.be/F9e590yVzwl 

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Can you soak it in diesel or plusgas overnight? Heating it may also help.

Edited by rusty69

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5 minutes ago, Puff Along said:

Service.....Anyway I got 3 of the 4 glow plugs out but #4 is a **************** if you get my meaning......#I was easiest #2 slightly harder #3 was tuff but #4 wont budge out of it's seating.......It is totally unscrewed but carbon holding it back........Any ideas or hacks ...

Fit 3?

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On 07/09/2019 at 15:36, cuthound said:

 

Indeed, or even a decent old fashioned garage. Assuming that you can reuse the nuts, all that's needed is some pipe, a hacksaw and a pipe flaring tool.

 

On 07/09/2019 at 15:32, Alan de Enfield said:

The BMC 1.5 & 1.8 pipes are listed but not the 2.5.

 

Try giving them a call and see what they can do.

 

http://hamptonsafaribc.org/files/BMC-

Diesel-Engine-Parts.pdf

 

 

 

 

On 07/09/2019 at 15:32, Alan de Enfield said:

 

I would have though any diesel fitting firm could knock them up for you.

 

On 07/09/2019 at 18:53, Puff Along said:

I'm Having Pump Refurb also Injectors, new heater plugs, No4 pipe injector Nut has cracked the others don't look to clever,I can save the old ones for spares,....Just belt braces really on the cut you can drift into the edge at Sea its a hole different  ball game.

 

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6 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Can you soak it in diesel or plusgas overnight? Heating it may also help.

I gave it another good belt of WD40 before i packed up.....It might help but not sure?...... I can move it back an forth 1" but it wont come out........Any ideas why the plugs got progressively harder to remove. 

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:offtopic: 

 

the number of of times I’ve passed diesel bobs workshop never realised he might be useful for boaty diesels... 

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4 hours ago, Puff Along said:

Getting there!! [I Think] Diesel Bob UK has refurbed my Rare Injection Pump My Rare Injectors, [which other C/World user had pointed that out already]he has got me 4 new glow plugs ,All Being Overnighted to me all for £420 including Vat.......Which seems to be cheap.Great Service.....Anyway I got 3 of the 4 glow plugs out but #4 is a **************** if you get my meaning......#I was easiest #2 slightly harder #3 was tuff but #4 wont budge out of it's seating.......It is totally unscrewed but carbon holding it back........Any ideas or hacks ......,I don't won't to break it.I have a video if it will upload.  https://youtu.be/F9e590yVzwl 

Why is it always the last one that a b***ar* ? I gave mine a good dose of PlusGas and walked away for 24 hours.

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Simple ..put a heavy rag over the top of it and crank over the motor.....compression will blow it out............this is also the way to get out car gloplugs if they break off........heavy rag,and drive the car........you ll hear it when its out.

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4 hours ago, john.k said:

Simple ..put a heavy rag over the top of it and crank over the motor.....compression will blow it out............this is also the way to get out car gloplugs if they break off........heavy rag,and drive the car........you ll hear it when its out.

I have some doubts that this will work because the OP can move the plug in and out by an inch. That is longer than the thread so I think there is a glob of carbon around the glow plug loop (remember I think these are 2V glow plugs, not the 12V pin type). I suspect the compression will leak away and never build up enough to blow that plug out.

 

My suggestion by PM was to grip the body of the plug around the body below the hexagon with gland nut pliers and the use a lever on the pliers to try to  force the plug out. However I suspect there is an evens chance the loop will break off and then it might stop the new plug screwing right in.

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The traditional ReDeX UCL  for petrol engines is very very good at disolving carbon, if you can squirt some around and into it. If it works spin the engine over before fitting the new plug to eject it as it might hydraulic that cylinder and cause damage.

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38 minutes ago, bizzard said:

The traditional ReDeX UCL  for petrol engines is very very good at disolving carbon, if you can squirt some around and into it. If it works spin the engine over before fitting the new plug to eject it as it might hydraulic that cylinder and cause damage.

In this case it would be best and probably easiest to do that down the injector hole. I agree it is vital that if the OP tries this he spins the engine over for a while to displace any liquid that has pooled on the piston. I suspect it will need a few applications to keep the suspected carbon wet enough for the UCL to work its way through - that makes the dangers of a hydraulic lock that much greater..

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On 11/09/2019 at 17:35, rusty69 said:

Nope.You need @Boater Sam or @Tony Brooks

Hi.The Electric Drill solution worked (Thanks for the tip) I did up the chuck as tight as possible and constant heavyish pressure it came out 1/2 mins Brilliant I had visions of braking it.as a Tad Ham Fisted.I removed the fuel tank cleaned it out.a fair amount of sand/grit an black gunk say 2 level table spoons full.I have renewed heater plug.Fitted the refurbed injectors. Connected the spill rail.Just cant seem to line up spline on the refurbished injection pump to the casing.. Will YouTube it tonight for some ideas.No Videos on refitting pumps...So here is the question HOW DO YOU LOCATE THE SPLINE BACK INTO POSTION? It seems the engine has been turned but I know it hasn't. 

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Reading  this topic I assume the engine is some type of BMC. If so and if the pump is similar to the 1.8 the technique is as follows. Offer the pump up, push/feel it in, at the same time give it a gentle but firm twist anti-clockwise. It WILL glide home after a few tries. À few choice swear words are an option. 

If it's not similar to  1.8 sorry to have wasted your time.

 

Frank

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Is this a master splined pump? If so it will gave one spline missing so it cannot go back in the wrong place and muck up the firing order.

That being so, you have to look where the odd spline is in the hole and turn the pump spindle to the same place before pushing it in.

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45 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

"Upper luber cylindricant" as my dear old departed Dad used to call it....

 

 

Very soLUBErious stuff. Brilliant for disolving carbon. I recommend it for freeing of gummed up piston rings, sticking valve stems, but most of all for 4 stroke engines with carburetters, it keeps all the jets clear and clean of the brown deposit like the rotten unleaded petrol leaves behind, especially in things like, generators and  lawn mowers that are not used during the winter. My car has a Weber carb with multiple jets which it keeps lovely and clean, without it idle jets keep blocking up.

In garages you can squirt one shot of it for every gallon of petrol into your tank from one of those pyramid shaped squirter cans for 1d or a long shot from a pump for 10d.    Just like they squirt tonic water into your gin in Wetherspoons.

Edited by bizzard

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1 hour ago, bizzard said:

Very soLUBErious stuff. Brilliant for disolving carbon. I recommend it for freeing of gummed up piston rings, sticking valve stems, but most of all for 4 stroke engines with carburetters, it keeps all the jets clear and clean of the brown deposit like the rotten unleaded petrol leaves behind, especially in things like, generators and  lawn mowers that are not used during the winter. My car has a Weber carb with multiple jets which it keeps lovely and clean, without it idle jets keep blocking up.

In garages you can squirt one shot of it for every gallon of petrol into your tank from one of those pyramid shaped squirter cans for 1d or a long shot from a pump for 10d.    Just like they squirt tonic water into your gin in Wetherspoons.

What ratio do you use in petrol Biz?

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37 minutes ago, catweasel said:

What ratio do you use in petrol Biz?

I think he uses 1969:2019 ;)

 

Edited by Sea Dog
The clue is in the prices!
  • Greenie 1

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2 hours ago, catweasel said:

What ratio do you use in petrol Biz?

Not really critical.  penny a shot per gallon from the pyramid shaped dispenser was probably about a small dainty coffee cup full. Years ago we did de-cokes with it, well an improved performance decoke on petrol engine. We drilled and tapped the inlet manifold and screwed in a little nozzle, a bit like a gas test point thingy. A rubber tube would be shoved on it with the other end in a tin of Redex. On the tube was a restructor thumb screw to regulate the Readex being sucked in. It was wonderful with the restrictor fully undone, the blue  exhaust smoke would blot out the whole district, but it was doing good.  Before and after that performance we would plug into the tube the Redex approved vacuum gauge  to see the difference and the increase in vacuum was always  much better.  We could tune the carb or carbs with the vacuum gauge for optimum performance too. You could identify bits of black softened ejected bits of carbon on the road behind the exhaust pipe after the treatment.  Diesel engine of course don't have that sort of vacuum in the inlet manifold so it won't suck up the Redex, they also have to have a vacuum pump for the brake servo where petrol engines come off the inlet manifold.  Sucking Redex through an engine was a tremendous tonic for it, just like mum giving us doses of Parish's food or caster oil to keep us regular.

Edited by bizzard

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19 hours ago, Slim said:

Reading  this topic I assume the engine is some type of BMC. If so and if the pump is similar to the 1.8 the technique is as follows. Offer the pump up, push/feel it in, at the same time give it a gentle but firm twist anti-clockwise. It WILL glide home after a few tries. À few choice swear words are an option. 

If it's not similar to  1.8 sorry to have wasted your time.

 

Frank

Hi Frank ...I have said all the swear words already!!!  I Will try give your way a go........Does it have to be timed?....... I thought it was a straight exchange but I keep see Pumps on YouTube with viewing windows on them for timing them???????I realise that techknowledgey has moved on......  I presumed if the engine was rotated it would be OK or am I be a bit dumb?

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It is not quiet as simple as Sam implies. He is correct about just getting the splines in but the pump has slotted fixing holes and needs to be  twisted on its mounts to set the injection timing. I think the 2.5 has a pointer on the block into which you slide the pump that you line up a line scribed on the pump flange BUT on a well used engine you really need to set that pointer before you fit the pump but that requires a special tool. Normally they run well enough as long as you align the line to the pointer but sometimes people twist the pump (with difficulty) on the running engine to get the engine sounding "right".

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2 hours ago, Puff Along said:

Hi Frank ...I have said all the swear words already!!!  I Will try give your way a go........Does it have to be timed?....... I thought it was a straight exchange but I keep see Pumps on YouTube with viewing windows on them for timing them???????I realise that techknowledgey has moved on......  I presumed if the engine was rotated it would be OK or am I be a bit dumb?

Puff Along,

Assuming a) that it's a 1.8 type set up and b) The engine has not been rotated since the pump was removed. The following is a paraphrased version of my manual.

Fit torsion bar (that's the thin gear wheel think on a flat bar) into the drive flange on the engine. (The 

Timing chain driven gear youu're trying to engage with

Position the pump drive shaft so that it's master spline lines up with that on the drive flange

Fit the pump drive shaft over the end of the torsion bar and VERY GENTLY  (manual capital letters) engage thedrive shaft spline.s with the drive flange (it's here where the slight twist comes)

Push the pump as far into position as possible. Fit nuts etc...........

 

Hope the above helps and don't forget those swear words. 

 

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10 hours ago, bizzard said:

Very soLUBErious stuff. Brilliant for disolving carbon. I recommend it for freeing of gummed up piston rings, sticking valve stems, but most of all for 4 stroke engines with carburetters, it keeps all the jets clear and clean of the brown deposit like the rotten unleaded petrol leaves behind, especially in things like, generators and  lawn mowers that are not used during the winter. My car has a Weber carb with multiple jets which it keeps lovely and clean, without it idle jets keep blocking up.

In garages you can squirt one shot of it for every gallon of petrol into your tank from one of those pyramid shaped squirter cans for 1d or a long shot from a pump for 10d.    Just like they squirt tonic water into your gin in Wetherspoons.

In my youth (50 years + ago) I fitted my Ford 100e with a Redex injection system. It bled Redex into the engine from a 2 pint tin  in the engine compartment . The mètering device on the dashboard had an override / boost button. A couple of presses on the button laid down a smokescreen a WW2 naval distroyer would have been proud of. Great when someone was tailgating you

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43 minutes ago, Slim said:

In my youth (50 years + ago) I fitted my Ford 100e with a Redex injection system. It bled Redex into the engine from a 2 pint tin  in the engine compartment . The mètering device on the dashboard had an override / boost button. A couple of presses on the button laid down a smokescreen a WW2 naval distroyer would have been proud of. Great when someone was tailgating you

Yes, I remember that too. Redex also did their own engine oil, grade 20/50 I think.

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