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morso squirrel burner - problem with heating a radiator

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I have a Morso Squirrel fire with a back boiler and air bleed screw,
supplying a single radiator in the stern bedroom, where there is an expansion tank.

 

The last time I used the fire, the expansion tank leaked and I replaced the
seal, since then, when the thermostat kicks in, the pump sounds like its working,
but neither pipe on the radiator gets hot.


When I've bled the radiater, water comes out, but no obvious air.
The expansion tank has been topped up.

 

Now it's getting a lot cooler at night, can anyone suggest anything I can do to get the radiator hot again ?

 

Cheers

 

 

 

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If the pipes run at floor level there may be an airlock in the back boiler or the top pipe that exits it. In my view there ought to be an air vent pipe from the back boiler outlet to the top of the header tank or through the cabin side/bulkhead high up. Can't be too sure without a pipework diagram. May also  be  an airlock in the pump.

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I worry about these pumped only solid fuel fired systems, there is no safety margin if the pump stops. I always refuse to install them and only install full gravity systems.

With only one remote radiator there is no thermal store capacity.

If you fail to bleed it, as a last resort fire it up and get it to boil. It will bang and bump in the pipes and boiler but if you bleed it at the same time it should clear the air lock. But please be careful not to get scalded.

  • Greenie 1

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56 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

I worry about these pumped only solid fuel fired systems, there is no safety margin if the pump stops. I always refuse to install them and only install full gravity systems.

With only one remote radiator there is no thermal store capacity.

If you fail to bleed it, as a last resort fire it up and get it to boil. It will bang and bump in the pipes and boiler but if you bleed it at the same time it should clear the air lock. But please be careful not to get scalded.

Amen to that. By all means use a pump to assist depravity circulation if its impossible to do a pure gravity system but ensure there is a sufficient heat sink by gravity to keep the water from boiling.

 

For clarity diesel and gas boilers with a boiler stat and an overheat stat are totally different. I am happy to have those pumped but would prefer gravity if allowed by the manufacturer on the grounds of minimising electrical consumption.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

Amen to that. By all means use a pump to assist depravity circulation if its impossible to do a pure gravity system but ensure there is a sufficient heat sink by gravity to keep the water from boiling.

 

For clarity diesel and gas boilers with a boiler stat and an overheat stat are totally different. I am happy to have those pumped but would prefer gravity if allowed by the manufacturer on the grounds of minimising electrical consumption.

 

Tony, are you sure you should be doing anything to assist depravity? 😂😂

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1 hour ago, cuthound said:

 

Tony, are you sure you should be doing anything to assist depravity? 😂😂

Bloody spell checker but nothing like a bit of depravity to get you warm on winter mornings.

  • Haha 2

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8 hours ago, Boater Sam said:

I worry about these pumped only solid fuel fired systems, there is no safety margin if the pump stops. I always refuse to install them and only install full gravity systems.

With only one remote radiator there is no thermal store capacity.

If you fail to bleed it, as a last resort fire it up and get it to boil. It will bang and bump in the pipes and boiler but if you bleed it at the same time it should clear the air lock. But please be careful not to get scalded.

I couldn't agree more, but today people seem unable to install a thermosyphon system that works. O its those ugly pipe that often cause the problem I understand 

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21 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

I couldn't agree more, but today people seem unable to install a thermosyphon system that works. O its those ugly pipe that often cause the problem I understand 

A good installer doesn't do ugly pipework, you can see none on mine, or any part of the 3 radiators except the thermostat valves.

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2 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

A good installer doesn't do ugly pipework, you can see none on mine, or any part of the 3 radiators except the thermostat valves.

You can see all of ours.Its great for radiant heat, obvious if there is ever a leak and fantastic for drying my pants.

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1 hour ago, Boater Sam said:

A good installer doesn't do ugly pipework, you can see none on mine, or any part of the 3 radiators except the thermostat valves.

Where does the heat go if the thermostatic valves close?

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10 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Where does the heat go if the thermostatic valves close?

There is the calorifier and an unvalved 15mm loop of pipe that goes forward under the gunnel, around and across the front bulkhead to keep condensation off the water tank and returns on the floor to the boiler.

  • Happy 1

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