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Flue kits - Seem Expensive!


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The Salamander narrowboat flue kit is £585! Which is more than the Hobbit stove it goes with. Is this normal / to be expected?

https://salamanderstoves.com/product/canal-boat-small-stove-kit/

 

Can anyone point me to a more cost effective solution? I think I will need a twin wall section as the flue will pass close to a window and walkway.

 

Could I for instance source the complete kit from here:

https://www.fluesupplies.com/twin-wall-insulated/4-inch-system.html

 

Or should I be looking at something like this?

https://www.limekilnchandlers.co.uk/multifuel-fires-fitting-kit.html

 

Thanks

 

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I don't think there is a need for twin flue, it really is big compared to single skin.

Why not search for ther chimney boat, he did mine for me in cast steel not pressed steel and a very good job he made of it too!

Little Chimney Company

Edited by nipper
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25 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

But, but... The £585 Salamander flue kit appears to be single wall too!

 

 

 

No it isn’t, the bit that goes through the roof is twin wall to avoid setting fire to your roof lining, and the external chimney is twin wall to help with the draft.

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28 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

No it isn’t, the bit that goes through the roof is twin wall to avoid setting fire to your roof lining, and the external chimney is twin wall to help with the draft.

 

Oh right. 

 

Both demonstrably unnecessary. 

 

 

 

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22 minutes ago, Rickent said:

My single skin flue has yet to set fire to my roof lining.

 

Same here.

 

My single skin external chimney pulls like a train too.

 

So hard that I have to fiercely regulate down the stove by almost fully closing the air spinner at the bottom to stop it roaring away furiously. This illustrates my single skin flue at least works far better than it needs to. 

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7 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Same here.

 

My single skin external chimney pulls like a train too.

 

So hard that I have to fiercely regulate down the stove by almost fully closing the air spinner at the bottom to stop it roaring away furiously. This illustrates my single skin flue at least works far better than it needs to. 

So a moments distraction and your ‘roaring away furiously’ could soon set fire to the roof?

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1 minute ago, Chewbacka said:

So a moments distraction and your ‘roaring away furiously’ could soon set fire to the roof?

 

Unlikely as I have plenty fireproof stuff around the roof hole. 

 

And I know it works have had the fire roar away a few times over the years....

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Mike the Boilerman said:

 

Same here.

 

My single skin external chimney pulls like a train too.

 

So hard that I have to fiercely regulate down the stove by almost fully closing the air spinner at the bottom to stop it roaring away furiously. This illustrates my single skin flue at least works far better than it needs to. 

Wot you need is an ecofan (its that time of year again!) to pull all the heat out of the fire.

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1 minute ago, Chewbacka said:

That explains things, with two eco fans they set up an aggressive standing wave that knocks smartgauges out of calibration...........

 

What?

 

Even on my other boat 100 miles away????

 

 

 

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Apparently the specialist flue kit for the drip fed Kabola boiler that I decided had no place in my engine room had cost virtually a 4 figure sum.

In fact had I known at the time the combined cost of that and the boiler I might well have asked for more money for it, as I sold the whole thing for "not a lot".

Although to be fair, I did need it out of my shed...

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The reason I thought I would likely need a section of 4" double wall is I need to route the flue close to a window / blind. 

 

I guess this is part that confuses me - would I then pass this into a 6" roof collar? which a chimney attaches to as normal?

 

Alternatively could I use a single wall - and put exhaust wrap for protection?

 

 

 

 

 

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22 minutes ago, davivid said:

The reason I thought I would likely need a section of 4" double wall is I need to route the flue close to a window / blind. 

 

But the flue needs otherwise, i.e. to be not close to the flammable material of a blind or curtain. 

 

There is a BS that Alan is fond of posting if you want a set of rules to follow, but in virtually every case of stove installation in a narrow boat the BS cannot be met. So by how much you decide to breach the standard becomes a matter of judgement. I'll see if I can find it for you.

 

Edit to add: 

 

Here it is...

 

http://www.soliftec.com/Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf

 

And advice from BSS here:

https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe/solid-fuel-stoves/new-stove-new-chimney/

 

 

 

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
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1 hour ago, davivid said:

The reason I thought I would likely need a section of 4" double wall is I need to route the flue close to a window / blind. 

 

I guess this is part that confuses me - would I then pass this into a 6" roof collar? which a chimney attaches to as normal?

 

Alternatively could I use a single wall - and put exhaust wrap for protection?

 

 

 

 

 

Depends on the flue makers recommendations but typically a single skin flue should have about 15” clearance to flammables, whereas a double wall may only need 3”.

 

when I fitted my flue I used single wall to about 10” below the roof and then double wall through the roof with a double skin chimney.  Works fine.  Obviously for years people used single wall, the vast majority having had no problems, so did I waste my money??  Possibly.

 

if I was doing the job again I would do it the same, peace of mind.

Edited by Chewbacka
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13 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Depends on the flue makers recommendations but typically a single skin flue should have about 15” clearance to flammables, whereas a double wall may only need 3”.

 

I would be working with about 7 - 11" clearance so sounds like a double wall may work for this.

 

18 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

when I fitted my flue I used single wall to about 10” below the roof and then double wall through the roof with a double skin chimney.  Works fine. 

 

Do you happen to have any links or details of the parts you used for this? I still haven't really found information relating to the double wall through the roof except for the kits.

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2 hours ago, davivid said:

Do you happen to have any links or details of the parts you used for this? I still haven't really found information relating to the double wall through the roof except for the kits.

Machine Mart sell a huge range of single and double wall pipes, connectors, and adaptors. But probably not a roof collar. 

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/categories/?search=Flue pipe

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3 hours ago, davivid said:

 

I would be working with about 7 - 11" clearance so sounds like a double wall may work for this.

 

 

Do you happen to have any links or details of the parts you used for this? I still haven't really found information relating to the double wall through the roof except for the kits.

I bought my bits about 8 years ago, don’t remember where I got them.  

 

Added - just looked at salamander web site and I think he makes up the kits himself, so he might be prepared to sell you the roof collar and a length of twin wall, leaving you to get the other bits yourself.

 

You probably know this, but in case anyone else is reading this that doesn’t, then one thing to be aware of is that flue gasses are corrosive and very cheap flue pipe, or plain mild steel tube may not last long.  It does need to be stainless (if twin wall) or vitreous enamel coated steel. 

Edited by Chewbacka
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