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making blacking thicker


qaz

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3 hours ago, smiler said:

MSDS sheet states it is harmful for aqatic life

Every type of blacking that is any good has health warnings that it is harmful to aquatic life.

 

If you dont pour it into the canal it is safe. 

 

If you let it dry on your boat, and then put it back on the water, it is safe.

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14 hours ago, mbmb said:

cant use it now anyway if its toxic, thanks every one

Where did you get that from? If it is just because it says dangerous to aquatic life that has already been addresses.  I suspect most solvent based pains and many other products say that but it normally relates to the raw, uncured/undried/undiluted product. Come back and tell us when you find a hull coating that does not say that.

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was on the data sheet. so as i hoped the "Toxic" thing is probably an EEC nonsense. i will call them next week [not the eec].

anyone have any views on throwing cement powder over the wet paint to give a hard finish, apparently boat yards do it in holland.

i think someone here was right about reasons for not adding cement to the paint, adhesion trouble

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1 minute ago, mbmb said:

was on the data sheet. so as i hoped the "Toxic" thing is probably an EEC nonsense. i will call them next week [not the eec].

anyone have any views on throwing cement powder over the wet paint to give a hard finish, apparently boat yards do it in holland.

i think someone here was right about reasons for not adding cement to the paint, adhesion trouble

Sounds bloody stupid to me, and I wonder why you want to do it? Why not just black your boat, with 3 or 4 coats, (or 7 if you think that would be better), and get on with boating.

 

If you are worried about the stuff you've got not being good enough, buy some boat blacking..... 3 x 5 litre tins at £45 each is about £1.50 a week if you black every 2 years.

 

If I was the boat next to you, and you started throwing cement powder around, I wouldn't be too happy :) 

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3 minutes ago, mbmb said:

was on the data sheet. so as i hoped the "Toxic" thing is probably an EEC nonsense. i will call them next week [not the eec].

anyone have any views on throwing cement powder over the wet paint to give a hard finish, apparently boat yards do it in holland.

i think someone here was right about reasons for not adding cement to the paint, adhesion trouble

I fear that if you think cement dust on the blacking's surface will give any meaningful protection when 1oo tons or so of narrowboat bounces off another boat, ironwork, or brickwork/concrete/stonework you will have another think coming. I don't see how cement powder will stop hydrocarbons in or on the water dissolving bitumen blacking. If you want a tough surface coating then I think it is now well established two pack is the way to go.

 

Remember that overnight when regulations changed bitumen products that were sold as safe for potable water tanks suddenly became not safe. I very much doubt that you will get a distributor/manufacturer to depart from what is on the data sheet. To do so would lay themselves open to potential legal action if anything went wrong.

 

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as its been reported that that a pro boat yard in holland treat barges with cement dust to both give a harder surface and show were the bits were missed on previous coat it immediately ask "why" do they do that. i didnt say i want to do it, nor did i immediately dismiss the idea as stupid. peoples views are interesting

 

im not intending to as the paint maker to change there views about toxicity [as we all know if u immerse a duck in a can of bitumen it comes up rather dead] as suggested above by whoever, just to ask  what specifically is toxic about it, more out of curiosity now ...anyway it sounds good thanks to peoples info here

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37 minutes ago, mbmb said:

as its been reported that that a pro boat yard in holland treat barges with cement dust to both give a harder surface and show were the bits were missed on previous coat it immediately ask "why" do they do that. i didnt say i want to do it, nor did i immediately dismiss the idea as stupid. peoples views are interesting

 

im not intending to as the paint maker to change there views about toxicity [as we all know if u immerse a duck in a can of bitumen it comes up rather dead] as suggested above by whoever, just to ask  what specifically is toxic about it, more out of curiosity now ...anyway it sounds good thanks to peoples info here

 

maybe Dr Bob is the man to answer the toxicity thing but I would expect it to be the solvents that eventually dry out and teh majority will be gone when the coating has hardened.

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18 hours ago, mbmb said:

cant use it now anyway if its toxic, thanks every one

All paints are toxic to aquatic life, but that's for the raw paint. Once its painted on, so long as not too thick, it dries. The whole idea of paint is its to protect something, so it doesn't vapourise or dissolve. (Except of course....blacking does dissolve in diesel, which can float on the surface of a canal if its polluted!!)

 

I suspect possibly that paint is more suited to household DIY than boat blacking. There are loads of variables with paint, but one of them is viscosity (ie...thickness) when its wet, manufacturers deliberately make paint thin if its to be applied in many coats for a smooth finish (if you miss a bit or its too thin, the subsequent coats will ensure fairly even coverage); and thick if its more important that it can be applied with good coverage/protection in fewer coats. Hence, narrowboat blacking is formulated in such a way to make it reasonably easy to apply, without worrying too much if its not as visually attractive as smooth/shiny paint might be.

 

If you already have the paint, it may still work, but you'd need to apply many coats rather than the usual 2-3 for blacking (or 1 for some people and boat yards LOL). But it still might not be as effective, since you're using it for a different application than it was designed/formulated for.

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5 hours ago, mbmb said:

as its been reported that that a pro boat yard in holland treat barges with cement dust to both give a harder surface and show were the bits were missed on previous coat it immediately ask "why" do they do that. i didnt say i want to do it, nor did i immediately dismiss the idea as stupid. peoples views are interesting

 

im not intending to as the paint maker to change there views about toxicity [as we all know if u immerse a duck in a can of bitumen it comes up rather dead] as suggested above by whoever, just to ask  what specifically is toxic about it, more out of curiosity now ...anyway it sounds good thanks to peoples info here

 

Boating in Holland is very different to boating on the UK canals.

 

I would stick with what is known to work, bitumen or 2 pack.

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You started with an incorrect proposition that blacking paint needs to be thick. 

 

What matters is the bond to the steel, which is why there exists a Bitumen primer which is a thinner version of the paint designed to flow into all the pores of the steel. Thinning the first coat with white spirit and preparing a very dry surface gets the best results. 

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