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Help! Changing a water hose.


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We have a Kubota 1703-E engine. It’s keel cooled and linked to our hot water system. Does any one know how to bleed the water too and from the engine so we can change the leaky pipe. Thanks. 

Edited by foleyhancox
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When you say linked to your hot water system. do you mean it has a feed to your cauliflower? Usualy I would just take bottom hose off at the engine and drain off. Replace hose then refil, ensure you remove air from the system. Its a good time to replace coolant anyway so ensure correct mixture of anti freeze with water before re filling.

One way to ensure air out of system when refilled is to run without pressure cap for a while. Sometimes some faffing is required but depends greatly on engine instalation.

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Many thanks. I think you have just answered our question. It is linked to the calorifier. We were confused as to how we get the air out. It is linked to a radiator welded to the top of the engine room. That has a valve as well so think that may be another way to get air out. 

Wew were told we can’t use anti freeze as it’s connected to the hot water. 

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8 minutes ago, foleyhancox said:

Many thanks. I think you have just answered our question. It is linked to the calorifier. We were confused as to how we get the air out. It is linked to a radiator welded to the top of the engine room. That has a valve as well so think that may be another way to get air out. 

Wew were told we can’t use anti freeze as it’s connected to the hot water. 

Hi

 

Some numpty told you rubbish. The coil inside the cauliflower is a sealed unit and cannot contaminate the water unless it fails. Its standard practice to use antifreeze in this situation.

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9 minutes ago, foleyhancox said:

Many thanks. I think you have just answered our question. It is linked to the calorifier. We were confused as to how we get the air out. It is linked to a radiator welded to the top of the engine room. That has a valve as well so think that may be another way to get air out. 

Wew were told we can’t use anti freeze as it’s connected to the hot water. 

If that is so and its a steel radiator it will fail very quickly, fresh water contains a lot of oxygen. In this use it should be a copper radiator.

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Unsure to be honest. The pipe has leaked and the little steel box with a stop cock in it above the calorifier keeps neededing to refill itself. We were told it’s an unusual water set up. It’s ensuring we change the pipe and get the air out that concerns us the most so we can get back on the move. Many thanks. 

Edited by foleyhancox
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32 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Seen a few Summer Breezes, where are you?

Got it, good idea, I thought you could be closer to Middlewich and I could come and help.

 

Its going to be tricky to work out the plumbing without seeing it. Can you establish where the radiator pipes join into the rest of the plumbing? When does it get hot, with the engine or another way?

You have a solid fuel stove and /or diesel fired noisy heater?

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This is the skin tank cooling for the engine, 

It will have antifreeze in, or should have! Fills from the engine cooling circuit, not the calorifier from the fresh water tank.

It may bleed the air off back to the "radiator" filler cap on the engine without any problem. If not loosening the highest hose connection in your first picture will let the air out.

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Air lock in the calorifier pipe. It may shift if you really rev the engine, out of gear, when cold with the engine filler cap off but without a lot more info I would not like to advise. I agree your system looks odd and it kind of looks like a twin skin tank set up.

 

If you can locate the return from calorifier hose where it is fixed close to the engine water pump then try this on a cold engine:
 

Mix a bucket of antifreeze mixture and have someone standing by with it at the filler, ideally with a large funnel.

 

Loosen the connection near the engine water pump, it will be a smaller hose.

 

Set engine to say 1500 to 2000 rpm and pull of the connection you loosened and quickly put your thumb over the engine side of the connection while the other person keeps the filler topped up.

 

Expect coolant to squirt out of the hose, allow it to until no air gushes out. Then replace the hose still with the engine running.

 

Tighten hose and make sure the coolant is at the correct level.

 

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Well what a timely thread !! Just changed the pipes to the sink tank and all seemed to go well.

 

Was looking forward to a hot shower today but after a couple of hours it was not to be !!

 

The water pipes on the engine were hit (and valves open) but no hot water in the tank.

 

There is a valve on the hot water pipe coming from the engine which also has a pipe going to the expansion tank. I opened this and it hissed a little.

 

 

 

Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

 

IMG_20190822_191928263.jpg

Edited by NewCanalBoy
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2 minutes ago, NewCanalBoy said:

Well what a timely thread !! Just changed the pipes to the sink tank and all seemed to go well.

 

Was looking forward to a hot shower today but after a couple of hours it was not to be !!

 

The water pipes on the engine were hit (and valves open) but no hot water in the tank.

 

There is a valve on the hot water pipe coming from the engine which also has a pipe going to the expansion tank. I opened this and it hissed a little.

 

Fingers crossed for tomorrow.

 

Cracked your code!  Sink is skin? Hit is hot?

 

You have air in the pipe/s to the calorifier coil from the engine, vent at the highest point.

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1 minute ago, NewCanalBoy said:

.......do we ever get a break ? 

........ Yep, but not long before the next leaky thing decides to leak. 

 

Windows, calorifiier, bog tank, fresh water tank, mushrooms, expansion vessel, central heating, Hull........ 

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