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Hi everyone

 

We are just going through the build process of our first boat, we are getting a semi fitted Sailaway and we know exactly what we are doing ourselves and what we are getting ready built. Everything that is except for the wood burning stove. We would like to do this ourselves and are well versed and very good at this type of building however neither of us have had experience fitting a wood burning stove before.

 

We where hoping for some advice as to if we should take this on ourselves, which is something we would be keen to do, or if there we should pay for someone to install it, or ask the boat builders themselves to do it (at an additional cost obviously).

Our may concern are obviously safety, but we are also interested to get an idea of cost as well as we can't seem to find a lot of information on this.

 

Any advice appreciated

Megan

Edited by Megan Kelly
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Roughly speaking, its a doddle to fit one. To buy a decent say morso and fit to include hearth, tiles and insulation will cost you about a grand ISH. Double it to have it fitted by someone else. You DO NOT need a double skinned flue, in fact they look daft and on a short boat flue make no sense. My only experience is thirty years as a liveaboard. 

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Main points are:

 

1) preparing the non-flammable hearth

2) distance from the outside of the stove and the flue to any flammable object and distance to the non-flammable hearth

These should be specified in the stove installation instructions 

 

3) Making the stove immovable in the hearth

4) Cutting a hole in the roof for a roof collar without going through any roof supports - or cabling

5) Fitting a roof collar and removing flammable insulation around the flue to a certain distance

6) Making sure that the flue can expand and contract within the stove collar and is sealed

7) Making sure that the flue can expand and contract within the roof collar and is sealed from the outside

 

Then if the stove has a backboiler and it's heating radiators you'll have a bit of plumbing to do.

 

There are probably lots of other points I've missed. 

 

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10 minutes ago, mrsmelly said:

You DO NOT need a double skinned flue, in fact they look daft and on a short boat flue make no sense. My only experience is thirty years as a liveaboard. 

 

I agree you don't need a double skinned flue but no harm in a double shinned chimney.

Just now, Tumshie said:

Doesn't mean he knows owt.... ?

 

:giggles:

 

True. I see lots of people doing things wrong and they've been doing it for years! 

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Whilst not mandatory, this will give you an ide of what 'best practice' is :

 

 

Oops forgot to attach :

 

British Standard BS 8511:2010 Code of
practice for the installation of solid fuel
heating and cooking appliances in small
craft where much more detailed information
can be found. The code isn't compulsory, but
will always be referred to if an accident occurs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Boat Stoves 1-page.pdf

Edited by Alan de Enfield
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Costs wise again. A morso squirrel is a good and indeed popular unit. Available from Limekiln chandlers at the moment to include flue, chimney, through roof collar, sealant, rope, paint etc etc for a total of £785. You then need hearth, insulation and tiles etc.

2 minutes ago, Tumshie said:

Doesn't mean he knows owt.... ?

 

:giggles:

:P

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This is the best sealant I've used for both collars and means you don't need to use that horrible fire cement rubbish to seal the stove collar. It might be cheaper on ebay or amazon.

 

https://www.glowing-embers.co.uk/ChimneyAndFlues/FlueInstallation/HighTemperatureSealants/EnvirografSiliconeSealantHeatResistantUpTo1200degC

 

Plumbaflue is another popular choice but as it only goes up to 300C it's fine for the roof collar it shouldn't really be used for sealing the stove collar.

Edited by blackrose
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When I fitted mine I used double wall flue pipe from about 9 inches below the roof to a couple of inches above the collar, keeps the heat away from the roof lining.  The detachable chimney is also double skinned, and supposedly helps the flue to draw. No idea if it does, but did not cost much more.

 

Also think about where the flue is, for example if next to the steps by the front entrance people will tend to grab it getting on the boat, not a good way to welcome visitors.

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Double skinned inside the boat loses the significant radiant heat that single skin provides. A double skinned chimney helps with flue draw, and also minimises leakage from the chimney base down the side of the cabin.

It may be good idea to let the boat builders fit the flue collar before any linings are fitted if you know where you want it.

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Hi

 

Thanks for all the advice.

 

24 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

It may be good idea to let the boat builders fit the flue collar before any linings are fitted if you know where you want it.

We do know where we want it so we are going to get them to do as much prep to make the fit out easier if we do decide to do it ourselves.

 

It's great to hear from lots of people with experience it gives us a good idea of what sounds right for us!

Thank you

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Also best to fit the stove on the port side of the boat, so that it is always nearest the centre of the canal when passing boats. It helps prevent the chimney from being knocked off on overhanging vegetation.

Edited by cuthound
To unmangle the effects of autocorrect.
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2 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

I heard of folks being 'knocked-up' whilst hungover on vacation but ……………………………….

 

Blimey, that was quick, I corrected it as soon as I posted it, because autocorrect thought vacation was more appropriate than vegetation.

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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

This is the best sealant I've used for both collars and means you don't need to use that horrible fire cement rubbish to seal the stove collar. It might be cheaper on ebay or amazon.

 

https://www.glowing-embers.co.uk/ChimneyAndFlues/FlueInstallation/HighTemperatureSealants/EnvirografSiliconeSealantHeatResistantUpTo1200degC

 

Plumbaflue is another popular choice but as it only goes up to 300C it's fine for the roof collar it shouldn't really be used for sealing the stove collar.

 

If you do use the Envirograf sealant which blackrose recommends (and it is very good), then make sure you can evacuate the boat for an hour after first firing the stove up.  I did mine at the bottom of Wigan locks in the rain and it was not enjoyable.

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Do not use setting fire cement in the flue collar on the stove or the roof collar. it will cause cracking of the cast eventually and is a sod to remove.

Use the proper black high temperature silicone as advised above.

 

Get the flue well up into the roof collar so that you have a 45 degree slope on the silicone at the top of the collar so that condensation runs back down the flue not outside.

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Good point from "cut hound" ,mount on port side. As to "DYI" , do you have a plasma cutter? I think a double lined chimney ( i'm in the US) is a safer idea, granted you won't get heat radiating from it , but you, or children , that might be to young to know can get a nasty burn if touched. And as for posting that little bit of extra heat, I think the stove will more than compensate any "added" heat radiated rom the pipe.

 Check out Jono's youtube channel , he has an episode when he had his Morse installed. It will give you a bit more information to make your choice.

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11 minutes ago, Paul C said:

I did mine with a jigsaw, it produced a nice clean cut too. Since there is a fitting on the outside and a trim on the inside, the cut is never seen anyway (but it was neatly done).

I too always use a jig saw, a plasma cutter would be nice but I dont have one kicking around with my tool box ?

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Gas Axe, its traditional.

 

I think the double wall flues look totally out of place inside a boat, they were originally designed to maintain flue gas temperatures on long external  flues to prevent inversion of the gas flow.

On a short flue they do nothing but waste valuable radiated and convected heat.

If you are safety obsessed then a perforated stainless sleeve looks much better.

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