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Change gearbox oil on Newage PRM150 D2 gearbox


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Note reply from Andy at PRM. The only reason a mineral oil is recommended is that additives in synthetic oil can affect the clamping capacity of the clutch plates. I am going to stick out the synthetic oil until next year's oil change, and I'll report back on the forum if I have any issues over the course of the year, for posterity for anyone else with a similar gearbox.

 

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We don’t normally recommend a synthetic oil due to additivities that can are contained within the oil chemistry which can affect the clamping capacity of the clutch plates & therefore are not deemed suitable for wet clutches. On that basis we recommend a mineral engine oil.

 

The owners handbook which is regularly updated does state that we suggest using mineral oil but I agree that the PRM150 service manual (printed in 1999) does not stipulate mineral or synthetic.

 

To be honest until about 10 years ago we used to advise customers that whatever they were using in the engine was also suitable for the gearbox.

 

If you have always used synthetic oil in the transmission and have not had any problems I would suggest not flushing out and replacing with mineral oil until next years oil change.

 

Best Regards

 

Andy Clarke

Sales Manager

PRM Newage Ltd

Barlow Road

Coventry

CV2 2LD

 

Tel +44 (0) 24 76617141 - Ext 220

Fax +44 (0) 24 76611845

 

Mail a.clarke@prm-newage.com

Web www.prm-newage.com

 

 

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7 hours ago, ivan&alice said:

Note reply from Andy at PRM. The only reason a mineral oil is recommended is that additives in synthetic oil can affect the clamping capacity of the clutch plates. I am going to stick out the synthetic oil until next year's oil change, and I'll report back on the forum if I have any issues over the course of the year, for posterity for anyone else with a similar gearbox.

 

 

 

Interesting. So there is a reason for not recommending synthetic oil.

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On 28/07/2019 at 22:19, catweasel said:

I suppose that is a possibility, but I think there will be mineral oil available elsewhere for a long time. I can still get Hypoy (spelling) 150 for my old Seagull gearbox without problems. OK Halfordsdon't stock it, but a local truck place had some. So many classic vehicles these days, many of which must still use mineral? The PRM gearbox doesn't hold as much or need as frequent change as the main engine, so even if comparatively expensive compared to synthetic/semisythetic from Tesco's, I don't think it will affect the national debt.
Another point is that they specify "no synthetic." Semi might be OK? Anybody asked? Edit: No forget that, it states "mineral."

All i can say is that I have a ford car with a Duratech engine. This engine requires a ford spec fully synth oil with a special number. Many oil companies sell a suitable oil of the correct spec. including Tesco/Asda/Halfords etc. (Surprisingly, Ford brand oil was amongst the cheapest recently, as were their filters!) That is what I have used for 13 years in this car. Why would I risk the Vauxhall or Fiat or VW spec oil in it? Why would I just put mineral in it? 

My wifes got a Ford Fiesta with a Duratech engine. It done over 120,000 miles on Lidls own brand 15/40 oil. Oil changes at 10,000 intervals. It has never any problems  and it hardly needs any topping up. I have never used synthetic oil in a narrowboat engine or PRM hydraulic gearbox and never will, why would you.

Edited by Flyboy
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29 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

I have never used synthetic oil in a narrowboat engine or PRM hydraulic gearbox and never will, why would you.

Because that's what they had at the nearby shop, on special, when I had no drive due to lack of oil in the gearbox, and was ignorant of the recommendation to only use mineral oil as the user manual for my gearbox does not mention this recommendation and has not been updated since 1999. Now I know, I won't in future. ?

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4 hours ago, Flyboy said:

My wifes got a Ford Fiesta with a Duratech engine. It done over 120,000 miles on Lidls own brand 15/40 oil. Oil changes at 10,000 intervals. It has never any problems  and it hardly needs any topping up. I have never used synthetic oil in a narrowboat engine or PRM hydraulic gearbox and never will, why would you.

Which mineral oil are you using I need to get some for my PRM 150 only fitted last year, used what I put in the engine.

 

Ta

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1 hour ago, 1agos said:

Which mineral oil are you using I need to get some for my PRM 150 only fitted last year, used what I put in the engine.

 

Ta

I use Auchan 15/40 API/CD that I bought a load of in Dunkirk for 8 euros/5 litres. Unfortunately you won't get it in the UK.  You can use any make of 15/40 API/CD.  I would use what you put in your engine as long as it's not synthetic .Tesco has this:-   https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/285281489?sc_cmp=ppc*GHS+-+Grocery+-+New*PX+|+Shopping+GSC+|+All+Products*New:+Non-Food:+Home+%26+Entertainment:+Home+%26+Entertainment*PRODUCT_GROUP285281489*&ds_rl=1116019&ds_rl=1116322&ds_rl=1116019&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4rqBRBUEiwAwaWjjPxgDJ-ATWId-y2ipsVtImVe2RW4vqlYD6GfrzitOe4540ca9dCArxoCJa8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Edited by Flyboy
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1 hour ago, 1agos said:

Which mineral oil are you using I need to get some for my PRM 150 only fitted last year, used what I put in the engine.

 

Ta

I use either Comma X flow or Triple Q these days. Eurocarparts and Halfords stock mineral oil. Also chandlers usually have some.
https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/cp4l/p/car-parts/car-lubricants-and-car-fluids/lubricant-and-fluids/engine-oil/?521776111&0&cc5_246&gclid=CjwKCAjwm4rqBRBUEiwAwaWjjP5aiU9TNwK4SDP5yYFIw5PkrBcSJz4QQdghZrismwcpYuAYKd1lPxoCc90QAvD_BwE

https://www.commaoil.com/passenger-vehicles/products/view/233/XFMF5L/

https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/engine-oils-and-car-fluids/engineoils/15w40-engine-oil/?521776111&0&cc5_246

6 hours ago, Flyboy said:

My wifes got a Ford Fiesta with a Duratech engine. It done over 120,000 miles on Lidls own brand 15/40 oil. Oil changes at 10,000 intervals. It has never any problems  and it hardly needs any topping up. I have never used synthetic oil in a narrowboat engine or PRM hydraulic gearbox and never will, why would you.

Cheers I'll have a look next time I'm in there :)

Edited by Guest
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13 hours ago, catweasel said:

Cheers I'll have a look next time I'm in there :)

This is what to look out for in Lidls, it's not a regular item but comes up now and again.  £9.99 for 5 litres.  API SJ/CF-4/CF, ACEA A3/B3,A3/B4,E2

OK for PRM 150 gearboxes.

 

CIMG9800.JPG

Edited by Flyboy
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16 minutes ago, Flyboy said:

This is what to look out for in Lidls, it's not a regular item but comes up now and again.  £9.99 for 5 litres.  API SJ/CF-4/CF, ACEA A3/B3,A3/B4,E2

OK for PRM 150 gearboxes.

 

CIMG9800.JPG

Good find :)

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22 minutes ago, dor said:

Last time I went into Halfords, a big one at that, they didn't stock any straight mineral oil.  The lowest grade they has was a semi-synthetic 15/40.

Maybe they have quit then. I saw some in the Wigan branch, but perhaps old stock? 
I know that vetus claim that Mineral/Semi/Synth are all OK for the Vetus engine, but it is a pain carrying more than one grade of oil. I imagine the likes of Morris will always sell mineral oil? 

 
 
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I have an unfortunate update - the leak in the outlet oil hose is back with a vengeance and has dumped most of the synthetic gearbox oil into my bilge which I now have to carefully dispose of. At least this means I can put the right stuff in now!

 

I believe the hose has failed at the crimp and I'll need to replace it.

 

Any idea what the correct name for this part is and where I could perhaps get it? Should I replace both hoses - I find with these things fixing one part that's relieving the pressure can cause the next to fail?

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35 minutes ago, ivan&alice said:

Any idea what the correct name for this part is and where I could perhaps get it? Should I replace both hoses - I find with these things fixing one part that's relieving the pressure can cause the next to fail?

I would have thought that any decent hydraulic hose outfit should be able to cut the existing crimps off, cut you a new piece of hose, and then crimp the old ends onto the new hose. Likely to be cheaper than sourcing an original I’d suspect. 

 

And yes, it makes sense to replace them both. They’re (presumably) the same age. 

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